Propagation house redesign

[BigVanVader]

Ok so last year I had to get up some sort of structure to keep my tomato seedlings under, and time was very short so I ended up going with a rebar structure like this

20150207_114647.jpg

The problem was I had no way to keep the rebar hoops from moving side to side other than rope, as drilling and screwing wasn't possible. Now this structure got me through last spring but it was to short, the sides were so low I could only stand in the middle and the rebar would contort under pressure from the plastic being pulled to attach it to the sides, resulting in all sorts of issues. Well, lesson learned. Time for a new idea. After looking on the internet etc I decided to use a simple design and add a few of my own ideas. I am still building it but I wanted to start this thread as it is raining and I have time. Here is a link to the article I mostly followed, it has links to the info he used as well http://www.fiddleheadfarmers.com/fhf...eenhouse-plans

So far the new structure is looking great and I feel like for my region (hardly ever snows only occasional high winds) this will be plenty strong enough. It is 7.5 feet in the middle and there is adequate room at the sides as well. The gothic arch is easy on the eyes and very functional as well. I will next be adding purlins then hip boards to attach the plastic to. Then the end walls. Here it is so far.

[Worth1]

You can go to an electrical supply house and ask for right angle beam clamps.
They look like this.
I have about 100 pounds of them at the house.
They are made for connecting conduit to beams but you can also connect crosswise round to round.
For 3/4 ridged conduit you will need 1 inch clamp or you will need smaller purlins.
They work great.
Worth

[BigVanVader]

I used 1 1/4 inch conduit Worth and I am using carriage bolts to secure pretty much everything.

[Worth1]

I remember us talking about the carriage bolts some place else here here.
A better option for sure.

Now I have to go help my neighbor dig a ditch.
Worth

[pmcgrady]

I'm getting ready to build a high tunnel hoop house similar to your pictures, using 3 - 10 foot long 2" PVC Electrical conduit (more UV resistance than regular schedule 40) for each hoop... About $5-$6
A stick, so say $18 a hoop, how far should they be spaced? 2 feet? 4 feet?

[Hellmanns]

Originally Posted by pmcgrady

I'm getting ready to build a high tunnel hoop house similar to your pictures, using 3 - 10 foot long 2" PVC Electrical conduit (more UV resistance than regular schedule 40) for each hoop... About $5-$6
A stick, so say $18 a hoop, how far should they be spaced? 2 feet? 4 feet?

4 feet works fine. In fact one of my old tunnels bows were on 6' centers.

[BigVanVader]

Originally Posted by pmcgrady

I'm getting ready to build a high tunnel hoop house similar to your pictures, using 3 - 10 foot long 2" PVC Electrical conduit (more UV resistance than regular schedule 40) for each hoop... About $5-$6
A stick, so say $18 a hoop, how far should they be spaced? 2 feet? 4 feet?

I spaced mine 3 feet apart following the guide I had linked. Four feet caused to much sag for me last year when it was windy and rained heavily. I will be attaching the plastic differently this time though with a hip board 3ft from the bottom of the hoop. The plastic attaches there via wiggle wire.

http://www.poly-tex.com/products/wig...-base-100.html This in theory will allow me to pull the plastic much tighter which will supposedly make the overall structure stronger and eliminate problems with sagging and wind damage. Time will tell. This thread is just me learning as I go If you read and look through those links it will give you a lot of info and ideas. I will be updating this as I get to work on it...rain rain go away

[Ricky Shaw]

Tuned in and loving the project.

[Hellmanns]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

I spaced mine 3 feet apart following the guide I had linked. Four feet caused to much sag for me last year when it was windy and rained heavily. I will be attaching the plastic differently this time though with a hip board 3ft from the bottom of the hoop. The plastic attaches there via wiggle wire.

http://www.poly-tex.com/products/wig...-base-100.html This in theory will allow me to pull the plastic much tighter which will supposedly make the overall structure stronger and eliminate problems with sagging and wind damage. Time will tell. This thread is just me learning as I go If you read and look through those links it will give you a lot of info and ideas. I will be updating this as I get to work on it...rain rain go away

Tight plastic is a must with a tunnel!

[BigVanVader]

Yeah I learned that real quick, which along with the height was why I am redoing it. That wiggle wire aint cheap but it will be cheaper than torn plastic.

[pmcgrady]

Going with 4 feet spacing...plastic pulled tight...carriage bolts... 3 purlins....roll up sides, this is going to be fun!

[BigVanVader]

Originally Posted by pmcgrady

Going with 4 feet spacing...plastic pulled tight...carriage bolts... 3 purlins....roll up sides, this is going to be fun!

Awesome, cant wait to see pics of your progress. Good Luck!

[Hellmanns]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Yeah I learned that real quick, which along with the height was why I am redoing it. That wiggle wire aint cheap but it will be cheaper than torn plastic.

I fastened plastic for years with wood strips and screws with issues most every year, and always the second year. I went with wiggle wire a few years ago.. No problems yet!