General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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July 9, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.E. Wisconsin
Posts: 308
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I've come to the conclusion...
Yes I've come to the conclusion that container gardening requires application of balanced fertilizer more often than in ground growing. Trying to grow tomatoe, peppers or winter squash without application of fertilizer will lead to frustration of small yields and small fruits, learned that lesson last year! Today I applied a water soluble mix of 15 30 15 for the 2nd time in my 6 week old container garden, after 4 weeks the initial amendments that I added before planting (10-10-10, lime and Epsom salt in addition to Jobes tomato spikes) I added the 15 30 15 fertilizer. I give each grow bag a top feed of 1/2 gallon of mix, so far no signs of over application are showing up. If this feeding shedule works out I'll continue to fertilize every 2 weeks. I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this with positive results, and if those who have done additional application of fertilizer during the growing stage have any advice or opinions? Here's the latest pics of my plants
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July 10, 2016 | #2 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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What was your initial mix? |
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July 10, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.E. Wisconsin
Posts: 308
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greenthumbomaha, The original was 1 cup of garden lime 2TBS of Epsom salt mixed into the potting mix and around the top outside edge of the grow bag was 1-1/2 cups of 10 10 10 that was covered by an inch or so of potting soil.
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July 15, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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Growing both in-ground and in containers...I sure have noticed a big difference in fert requirements. Although I fert my containers weekly...I try to give weak solutions and limit the nitrogen. High nitro rings the dinner bell for my aphids.
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July 15, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 2,742
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I very much agree with your assessment about container plants needing feeding much more often. I feed my container plants every 10-14 days (alternating what I use). I fertilize the in-ground tomatoes probably 3, maybe 4 times the entire growing season, but my garden soil is fairly nutrient rich, while the container mix (ProMix) is not. Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well.
I have upped my feeding of summer lettuce (grown in-ground) since I water it daily and it is still early, but seemingly has made a big difference for the better in my summer lettuce. |
July 15, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Every day mixed with water at 1000ppm and pH adjusted in 15gal fabric pots.
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July 15, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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July 15, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Mechanicsville, VA zone 7a
Posts: 97
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"Additionally the daily watering for containers leeches nutrients out much more quickly as well".
I would agree completely. I had a friend that has an organic herb and veggie farm and they tested liquid organic versus granular organic and there was a noticeable difference. Those that used the granular were healthier (larger), and a darker shade greener. (tested on pepper plants) He is convinced that although they may get a quick boost from the liquid, in the end the granular releases a small amount of ferts each time the plant is watered. Since we water containers more often it would reason they need more ferts over the long haul.
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"The task of the modern educator is not to cut down jungles but to irrigate deserts." C.S. Lewis |
July 15, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Osmocote is good stuff. I have good results with it as my only fertilizer, mixed into the media at transplanting. My container plants tend to be peppers and micro-dwarf tomatoes, so maybe their demands are not as high as trying to grow a huge tomato plant.
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July 15, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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I've come to the conclusion.... There's three ways to look at container growing. One is you're taking a slice of your garden with the same general upkeep, and putting it in a pot. The second is a quasi hydroponic program of soilless media and metered fertigation in a container matched to the plant and conditions. The third, is everything in between.
And generally, the closer you get to the second method, the healthier and more productive your plants will be. |
July 15, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,140
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I grow in containers and a raised bed. For me pro mix with a slow release fertilizer, lime and Epsom salts mixed in according to Raybo's earthtainer measurements. As well, a weak solution of a water soluble fertilzer with micronutrients is applied a few weeks after planting. I do also add the granular slow release at least twice after just because I water so frequently. But this year I have been careful not to over fertilze and my plants are extremely healthy. The raised bed with the pro mix has worked better than the smart pots. I don't have to water as often. But no doubt container growing requires different techniques than in ground. My in ground tomatoes require less. Aunt Gerties Gold is one that doesn't do well in containers no matter how large or how fertilized.
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July 15, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 205
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Once my plants are in their final containers, they have all the fertilizer they are going to get. It doesn't wash out, it's all slow release organic meals that rely on the microbial population to become available to plants.
Primarily: Crab shell meal Kelp meal Alfalfa meal Supplemented with: Neem seed meal Fish meal Fishbone meal Not all of my containers make it through a full season without showing nutrient deficiencies, but the larger ones do. I do top dress with spent coffee and tea grounds, I guess that counts. it really encourages worm activity. |
July 18, 2016 | #13 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Now, for the once a year I make EP Parmesan, I buy the EP. I also was going to try to grow zuch again and when I thought about it, I didn't like it that much. |
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July 18, 2016 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 205
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Sub-irrigated:
2x 100G steel stock tanks 4x 27G tubs 10x 5G buckets With drainage: 20x 10G growbags 10x 5G growbags 10x 5G buckets 10x 3G growbags 40x 1G nursery pots Approximately. I'm thankful for the near daily thunderstorms over the past two weeks, because I'm tired of hand-watering. I have 2 27G tubs with cucumbers, and they start to droop even with daily watering. Need a compact/bush variety for next year. I really want more stock tanks. I believe the reservoir holds ~14G, so even with 4 indeterminate tomato plants, I only have to water 1-2 times a week when it's in the 90s. Last edited by fonseca; July 18, 2016 at 11:05 PM. |
July 15, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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If hydro means growing without soil, most of us already are hydro growers, since there is no soil in pro mix.
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