Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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October 5, 2008 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 127
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A few questions about close planting
OK, here's the situation. I have 30 plants to get into the ground next spring. I have a 16'x8' planting bed. The garden is situated like this:
I plan to use Dcarch's support system http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...hlight=support My questions are, what is the best way to set up this garden? How many rows? How many plants per row and how far apart? Which way should the rows run to maximize sun conditions? I know some of you are close planting experts and have had good experiences without giving the plants the ideal 2' in each direction rule. Please help me out. Thanks Last edited by DoubleJ; October 5, 2008 at 05:39 PM. |
October 5, 2008 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 848
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Just curious, what are the plants? and why so many? I have some indeterminants spaced two feet apart but they are on 7ft tall stakes and pruned heavily. Even my little Lime Green Salads need 1.5ft so the leaves don't overlap.
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October 5, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 127
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Tomatoes of various types
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October 5, 2008 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, TX Zone 8b
Posts: 531
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Believe me I’m no expert but I have found 32” to close and 36” just right. And for raised beds I never go over 4' wide that way you can reach from both sides.
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October 5, 2008 | #5 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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I have beds at 8'x4', and that seems right. I can imagine 16' long w/o too much problem, but wider than 4' seems difficult. I don't like to walk in the beds, so harvesting from the middle branches and plants would be difficult on wider beds.
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October 5, 2008 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 127
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It's not a raised bed, it's in ground.
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October 5, 2008 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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I am attaching a pdf plan:
Blue lines indicate scale, one box=12" x 12". Red lines indicate support system. Green inicates tomato plants at 18" apart. I grow mine at 14" apart and all the plants are over 15' tall on 10' tall support systems. It's been working out great. This is the fourth year of re-using the same system, I have yet to buy anything. Let me know if you have further questions. dcarch
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October 5, 2008 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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Quote:
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...ighlight=mulch dcarch
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October 5, 2008 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mid-Ohio
Posts: 848
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I would run four rows of 7-8 plants northish- southish (your long axis) so the plants can get east west lateral sun. I would use two double rows (one walk way down the center of the garden) which will give you access to rows 2 and 3, and you can access rows 1 and 4 from the sides of the garden. You can squeeze one more plant at the north end of the aisle to block it off. You need at least three feet between rows 2 and 3 in order to walk and work once the leaves over hang.
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October 5, 2008 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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You want 3' between plants in all directions, but you can cheat
at the outside edges, planting them a foot or so in. If you do three rows, one in the middle and the other two a foot in from each side, that is 8' of width. If you put 6 plants in each row, with the end plants 6" in from the ends of the bed and 3' between plants , that would be 18 plants without crowding, until you have to walk between trellises, at which point you will find out that 3' may be enough space between rows for the plants but not enough for the plants *and* you, unless you prune indeterminates to one or two stems (and determinates and semi-determinates can still be a width of plant problem between rows, but you don't want to prune those, normally, because of all the fruit that they set on side-shoots). 30 plants in that space is likely to be an impenetrable jungle by the 1st of August without greenhouse-type pruning, and the "paths" between rows will have disappeared. The orientation is ok. The slight tilt to it allows sun to hit all plants in early and late summer, when the arc of the sun is to the south of you. Look at the pictures below to get an idea of what this looks like in mid-summer. Unpruned: http://www.pollards.org/summer05/imagepages/image2.htm Conscientiously pruned (second picture down on the page): http://www.recruitingofficer.com/arc...1_archive.html
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October 5, 2008 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 127
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October 5, 2008 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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Warning: this is ultra-high desity planting. It would be a good idea to plant varieties with distinct differences next to each other. The branches will be inter-laced with each other you may not be able to tell what you will be getting.
I plant PL next to RL, red next to green next to black next to yellow, etc. dcarch
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October 5, 2008 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 127
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