Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 23, 2009 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SE PA..near Valley Forge
Posts: 839
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EARL's METHOD
earl... Tomato planting season is upon us once again in the North and I know you have posted your "tomato hole preparation" method here before, but since you are one of the PRIMIERE growers and "Father of the "Earl's Faux"variety, would you again please post your method for growing such phenomenal tomato plants? Newer members may not have seen it and I think there is no question as to it's success.
Thanks!
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April 23, 2009 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
April 24, 2009 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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What exactly is "composted peat humus?" Is this product widely available?
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April 24, 2009 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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My impression is it is peat moss which has been composted/rotted.
Again, I just follow the fertilizer recommendation on Earl's method, not the soilbuilding, especially since the 99 cent bags of soil at Wal-Mart are not something I want to add to my garden.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
April 24, 2009 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MT
Posts: 438
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Yeah. . . don't buy the undecayed/composted spagnum peat moss (that they sell at Home Depot/Lowes). . . I made that mistake two years ago and it will mess up your soil PH. I believe it is in a big green and white bag and is kinda like a giant square. I actually started a thread on this called "earl's hole disaster", lol. . . but is seems to have expired. :0) I had to go to a nursery to find the right stuff for the rest of my holes. I highly rec. Earl's method though--- I got tons of maters in a community garden where everyone elses plants keeled (though of course I shared :0)
Does anyone know what to use INSTEAD of Tomatone for Earl's Hole method??? I have a garden plot where they're certified organic, so stricter. Thanks. . . hope I'm not thread hi-jacking!
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Sara Last edited by hasshoes; April 24, 2009 at 12:27 PM. |
April 24, 2009 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I believe the reformulated TomatoTone is organic. Check it out.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
April 24, 2009 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Peat moss does not promote bacterial growth in the soil. It actually prohibits it. That is why it was used to pack raw fish in by the Vikings.
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April 24, 2009 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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What could you substitute for composted peat humus that would build beneficial bacteria in the soil?
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April 24, 2009 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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If you want beneficial bacteria in the soil, use something like the newer TomatoTone with BioTone, or just use BioTone directly, or MicroLife, or really any product which already has beneficial microorganisms in the bag.
Then make sure to feed your bacteria with molasses, etc.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
April 24, 2009 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MT
Posts: 438
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From what I understand the new "organic" Tomato-Tone is not OMRI listed and not approved for certified organic production.
I'm not looking to be certified , but the garden plot is within 50 feet of a farm that is certified, so we are only allowed to use the same practices. ps- I think the reason - or at least part of the reason- of adding composted peat moss is to make the soil nice and fluffy, properly aerated. . . to keep the soil from being compacted or waterlogged (which can lead to BER- blossom end rot)
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Sara Last edited by hasshoes; April 24, 2009 at 01:52 PM. Reason: adding on |
April 24, 2009 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
And if it does not wick water easily, I add a little soap to the water before watering it the first time. That adds sufficient surfactants to it that it will accept water.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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April 24, 2009 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MT
Posts: 438
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Does this include composted peat humus as well? I would think the stuff that had broken down might be different, no?
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Sara |
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