Hello, Earl???

[louster]

This winter on another forum, I read about the Earl's Hole method of planting tomatoes. It sounded great to me, so I used it this spring.
I posted a thank you on that other forum, but had no follow up post, and thought that maybe that Earl was no longer over there, and you were here instead?
Just wanted to let you know, if you are the same Earl, that my tomato plants are just LOADED with huge fruit, and thank you so much for sharing your "secrets". I've never had so many or such large fruit on my plants before. Even the Opalkas, which have been shy producers for me in the past, are producing like crazy this year.
So, if you are the same Earl, thank you for being so generous!
Along with that, thanks to all who post in these forums....I just discovered gardening forums last winter, and have learned so much from reading about everyone's experiences.

[levad]

hole method? sounds interesting. could you elaborate? im always up for something new.

[louster]

Earl’s Hole Method of Growing Tomatoes Items from Walmart type garden center, 40 lb. bags of Composted Peat Humus, 40 lb. bags of Composted Cow Manure, Epson Salt and Bonemeal and Espoma Tomato-tone® 4-7-10 fertilizer or equivalent .
In raised beds, after tilling, I dig good sized holes about 2 feet across, scattering the soil around the hole. Then to each hole I add ½ bag of the peat humus, 1/4 bag of the manure, then I scatter about the hole a handful each of Epson salts, Bonemeal and Espoma. Then I use a spade fork to mix the formula VERY well some inches beyond the depth and width of the original hole. If plants are indeterminate they should be planted at least 4 feet apart.
I then, using my hands, I make a hole in the center of this mixture and plant the seedlings. If seedlings are tall I strip off the leaves except for the top few inches, and lay it at an angle or on its side in the hole and cover up to the leaves. Then I form a 4 inch deep water holding basin [a crater] about 1 1/2 feet across and around the plant, then mulch the plants and bed with straw or grass clippings, then water. Last I spread a handful of granular fertilizer such as Espoma Tomato-tone® 4-7-10 on top of the mulch around the plants so it will leach into soil over time and feed the outer roots for they grow wide and deep. I use concrete wire cages 18-20 inches across and anchor them with rebar driven deep next to the cage. When I have to water, if I don’t get rain in 7-10 days, I stick an open ended hose at the base of the plants and give them a couple gallons.
Never over water. The plant’s leaves will tell you they’re thirsty by drooping a bit. As the plants grow, to help prevent leaf disease, trim any branches that droop and touch the mulch.
During late summer if I think they need it I'll give each plant a couple gallons of fish emulsion or what ever liquid type I have. And if you have leaf problems, get started early using Daconil as soon as you plant, even saturate the mulch around the base as well as top and bottom of leaves.
I can't say this is the best way to do it, but it works for me.
Earl




Levad,
Here it is....I didn't do it exactly as stated, but close enough. Fantastic results!! here's the link:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/l...023725174.html
Happy gardening!

[feldon30]

That would be Earl known for Earl's Faux (an offshoot of Brandywine) and co-organizer of CHOPTAG (the Cincinnati tomato tasting happening 2 weeks from now).

Originally Posted by Earl's Hole Method

Earl’s Hole Method of Growing Tomatoes

Items from Walmart type garden center, 40 lb. bags of Composted Peat Humus, 40 lb. bags of Composted Cow Manure, Epson Salt and Bonemeal and Espoma Tomato-tone® 4-7-10 fertilizer or equivalent .

In raised beds, after tilling, I dig good sized holes about 2 feet across, scattering the soil around the hole. Then to each hole I add ½ bag of the peat humus, 1/4 bag of the manure, then I scatter about the hole a handful each of Epson salts, Bonemeal and Espoma. Then I use a spade fork to mix the formula VERY well some inches beyond the depth and width of the original hole. If plants are indeterminate they should be planted at least 4 feet apart.

I then, using my hands, I make a hole in the center of this mixture and plant the seedlings. If seedlings are tall I strip off the leaves except for the top few inches, and lay it at an angle or on its side in the hole and cover up to the leaves. Then I form a 4 inch deep water holding basin [a crater] about 1 1/2 feet across and around the plant, then mulch the plants and bed with straw or grass clippings, then water. Last I spread a handful of granular fertilizer such as Espoma Tomato-tone® 4-7-10 on top of the mulch around the plants so it will leach into soil over time and feed the outer roots for they grow wide and deep. I use concrete wire cages 18-20 inches across and anchor them with rebar driven deep next to the cage. When I have to water, if I don’t get rain in 7-10 days, I stick an open ended hose at the base of the plants and give them a couple gallons.

Never over water. The plant’s leaves will tell you they’re thirsty by drooping a bit. As the plants grow, to help prevent leaf disease, trim any branches that droop and touch the mulch.

During late summer if I think they need it I'll give each plant a couple gallons of fish emulsion or what ever liquid type I have. And if you have leaf problems, get started early using Daconil as soon as you plant, even saturate the mulch around the base as well as top and bottom of leaves.

I can't say this is the best way to do it, but it works for me.

Earl

I don't follow any of the soil advice, as I have a theory that Wal-Mart bags up all the soil as nearby businesses scrape off the top layer before pouring parking lots and randomly label it Potting Soil, Potting Mix, Peat Humus, etc..

But I do follow the fertilization technique. I mix 2/3 cup of TomatoTone, 1/3 cup Bone Meal, 1/3 cup Dolomitic Lime in and around each planting hole. This way I don't really need to fertilize for ~2 months.

[feldon30]

Oops, you beat me to it.

[louster]

Sort of what I did, too. I added some gardener's gold topsoil, peat moss, greensand, epsom salts, bonemeal, Tomato Tone, crushed eggshells, and some mycchorizae (sp?). Then, about six weeks after planting out, I sprayed with kelp/fish emulsion, and will do so again in a couple of weeks. I haven't been as regular with the Daconil as I should have, but have sprayed some, and the plants are healthier than I have ever seen this time of year. Still waiting for the first ripe, we had a very cool spring, I think that set things back. On the bright side, I do have three out there that are orange-looking, so it won't be long!!!

[levad]

thanks guys. a friend fertilizes with tomatotone, bonemeal, and lime.

i might try this in 1/2 my raised beds next year. compare with the miracle gro that i normally use.

thanks again

dave

[Earl]

louster,
It's me. Glad the hole method worked for you too. Sounds like you might need help eating all those tomatoes. :-)
Earl

feldon,
I wasn't endorsing Big Wally, just a place like them to get the stuff. :-) The last time I bought BS from them someone had been feeding there bulls clay. I'd rather use Black Kow.

[louster]

Earl, you are my hero. Anytime you want, come on up to Mid Michigan, you're more than welcome, and you can have all the tomatoes you want......well, almost! You have to leave me enough to can salsa and sauce, and a few for BLT's. I LOVE this time of year!!

[cottonpicker]

THANKS, ALL..........................................

the Community is WELL SERVED.

LarryD... cottonpicker

[newgardener_tx]

Hello, Earl,
Thank you for the fantastic method! My plants are five feet tall now.

What kind of fish is that?
New gardener in Tx