Spider mites

[Bryan24]

What can I do without causing any extra damage? They've gotten pretty bad the past couple of weeks. And they're about to take out half of one of the raised beds. The thing is, this year we haven't done ANYTHING for the plants, other than water. We're having a banner year. Production like never before. I don't want to have my attempt to kill off spider mites cause more harm than good.

Any suggestions??

TIA
laurel-tx

[feldon30]

Spider mites like hot and dry weather, so I wonder if morning mistings might disrupt their activity. I wonder if insecticidal soap (a few drops of Dawn in a spray bottle full of water) does anything.

What I have heard over and over is, in S.E. Texas, specifically Houston, San Antonio, and Austin, it is extremely difficult to keep tomato plants alive through mid-June, July, August, and mid-September. And if you manage to get through the summer, when they start producing tomatoes again after 3 unproductive months, the taste won't be nearly as good as it should be.

Between the heat, the torrential downpours that encourage fungal diseases, the spider mites, and stink bugs, it's not an easy road to travel.

Now of course there are some exceptions. There are some seriously green thumbs here on the forums who are keeping tomato plants not just alive but thriving in our area.

Also there is a school of thought that you can trim your indeterminate (vining) tomato plants back to about 1/3 normal size and water them well during the summer and by the time fruitset is possible (daily high temps consistently stay below 80), they will have grown back.

I started seedlings indoors on June 1st for tomatoes and peppers and I have a half dozen plants that are nearly 10" tall and ready to go in the ground and another 40 transplants not too far behind. Two local nurseries -- Cornelius on 1960 and Buchanan's on 11th in the Heights -- have announced that they will be carrying tomato transplants in the next couple of weeks for fall gardeners.

If you are satisfied with your current tomato varieties (I wasn't), you can take cuttings of your current tomato plants, specifically "suckers" or growing tips, and root them in water for a few days and then plant them in potting mix. Then you don't have to bother with seed, etc.

[Adenn1]

I just purchased some Safer Insecticidal Soap concentrate...it notes that it controls spider mites. This is a description:

A staple in organic pest control, this contact insecticidal soap is derived from potassium salts and is totally biodegradable as well as environmentally safe. It works as a smothering and desiccating agent on a wide variety of insects: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, scales, leafhoppers, grasshoppers, earwigs and others. Since it works on contact, it must be sprayed directly onto the pest. Do not spray foliage in full sun; spray in early morning or in the evening when temperatures are below 85°. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves.

[feldon30]

The impression I got was not that spider mites and stink bugs can't be killed, but that it takes too much hand-picking of the bugs and spraying of the mites to keep them at bay, and for what? Tomato plants rarely set fruit if the daily high temps are 90+ which describes nearly 4 months of the year for Houstonians.

[Bryan24]

STILL setting fruit here (San Antonio). It's really funny, but because it hasn't been all that humid (unill recently), the plants are going NUTS!! I have new tiny tomatos on nearly every plant (except Yellow Brandywine, but that's another issue entirely). The plants that don't have mites are great. The thing is, the mites are starting to affect the ripening process, and that I will not have.

Guess I'll have to make a soap solution. The local Garden Guru mentioned that using soap can burn the plants. I know using it in the heat of the day could cause problems, but do I really have to rinse off the soap if I spray at night?? I mean, come on, we're talking about, maybe, a coupla tsp, right?

thanks
laurel-tx

BTW-Feldon, I have family in Houston, they're too intimidated by the heat and humidity to try growing tomatos.......Oh, what they're missing 8)

[feldon30]

If I hadn't panicked at the anthracnose, I'd probably still be harvesting. Daconil and mulch. Daconil and mulch.

[Suze]

When using soap sprays, Garden Safe insecticidal soap is an affordable and easy to find brand that I like. In order not to burn your plants, spray in the early morning, then rinse off. Spraying in the evening leaves your plants wet at night.

However, what I find gives the best control for spider mites is wettable sulfur, lightweight oils, or pyrethrins. The first two are rather difficult to use here when you tend to need them most, though, as the plants can be easily burned.

Kelthane also works very well, but is difficult to find (I think it's being phased out), and personally, I don't care to use it.

Soap sprays can help a little, but really don't give very good control.

[feldon30]

I bought Neem/Pyrethrin concentrate that will make 16 GALLONS of the stuff for $14.99. Works out to about $.50 per spray bottle. They list spider mites, so I guess I will give it a go next time I see them.

Fruit Tree Spray at Green Light

For some reason it's called "Fruit Tree Spray" but it's really Neem II concentrate with pyrethrins. It's organic and contains the right % of neem and pyrethrin and is perfectly safe on vegetables, lawns, and yes fruit trees. I love saving money.

[Althea]

Spider mites will leave if you spray the underside of the leaves with plain water, either with your hose or a spray bottle every few days for a week or two until they are comepletely gone. The mites can't tolerate damp conditions. Spray in the morning so the plants can dry during the day.

[Bryan24]

I think I may have a botle of Neem II in the building.....but it may be empty. An excuse to visit Rainbow Gardens!! Bryan will be happy, the kids will be happy, I will be happy!! Hooray!!

laurel-tx

and-THANKS!!!