Which is better - small or large transplant? - Page 4

dice · May 4, 2011

JoeP, the forecast here shows no freezing temperatures
for the next week. You could move them into the garden now,
but keep an eye on the weather report, in case there is a
near-freezing night on the way (I cover them if the forecast
is 40F or less). This next rain front is moving in this weekend,
and at this time of the year that usually means winds from
the southwest, which are warm enough to keep
the temperatures above freezing, but it depends a bit on
your elevation. Try http://www.wunderground.com/ and plug
in your zip code for accurate weather and local temperatures.

I put a few out yesterday but covered them all last night.
I think I can leave the covers off at night the rest of the way.

They have been just sitting there in the cold weather we have
had. At daytime temperatures 50F and lower, they do not seem
to grow. They may grow roots, but there is no visibile change
in the seedling.

The big problem with seedlings that small in the garden is that
there is no room for cutworm collars (slit pieces of plastic
drinking straw around the stem, maybe an inch or two long)
yet. I assume that you are prepared for slugs.

JoeP · May 6, 2011

Dice,

I never saw a cutworm or a slug last year. My raised beds have cinderblocks for a border. I just assumed the slugs won't/can't climb those. My only pest was aphids but only on a couple of plants.

I transplanted all of my tiny seedlings into potting soil a couple of nights ago. I had originally transplanted them in seed starting mix. They all seem to be doing better in the potting soil. I may have some tomatoes from my own starts afterall....at least a Galina's since it is an early.

I have doubts that the later ones will be able to ripen. Like

Stump of the World
KBX
Brandywine Sudduth
Chapman
Magnum Beefsteak
Mexico
Cherokee Chocolate

I am not sure if it would be better to let these grow for 2 or 3 weeks in their 4" pots (plant out June 1st) or plant them May 15 at a smaller size? Will this have any effect on when they mature fruit?

cushman350 · May 6, 2011

If there is no danger of frost, I'd get them in their planters so they can get to the business of adapting to outside life and developing their root system unrestrained. Just my opinion.

dice · May 7, 2011

I planted most of mine over the last few days. I am down to
some containers now (I need a break in the rain, maybe
some more fertilizer, etc). I wanted to get the ones in the
ground in before the soil became too wet to work.

I do not care if they are small. I want then growing in sunlight
as soon as possible. Cutworms are simply a risk until the
seedlings get a little taller, when I can collar those that
I lack backups for. Eventually the stems get too big around
for a cutworm to encircle, and the problem can be ignored.

The seedlings that had been outside in coldframes are already
hardened off from leaving the cold frames open whenever it
was not raining. Only those that have been inside the whole time
need some attention to the weather for the next few days (no
long stretches of direct sunlight or significant wind).

Most of that list I put in the "gambling on a good summer"
category. You will probably get some Cherokee Chocolate
fruit regardless, along with Galina's, but it may be at the
end of summer.

I have not seen the cutworms yet when digging in the garden,
but I see them every year. They live in/on the ground and feed
at night. If you go out at night with a flashlight, you can often
find them on the bottoms of leaves of shrubs. The slugs feed
mostly at night, too, taking cover from the sunlight during the
day. If you put a piece of cardboard out in the yard somewhere,
let it rain on it for a few days, then turn it over, you will probably
find slugs underneath.

Not having slugs and cutworms in Western Washington would
be rather miraculous.

Cutworm:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutworm

You can also put a saucer of beer in the garden and check it
the next day to see if there are slugs around (they are attracted
to the yeast in the beer, and they crawl in and drown):
http://igoyougo.files.wordpress.com/...pg?w=541&h=405

May 4, 2011	#46
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	JoeP, the forecast here shows no freezing temperatures for the next week. You could move them into the garden now, but keep an eye on the weather report, in case there is a near-freezing night on the way (I cover them if the forecast is 40F or less). This next rain front is moving in this weekend, and at this time of the year that usually means winds from the southwest, which are warm enough to keep the temperatures above freezing, but it depends a bit on your elevation. Try http://www.wunderground.com/ and plug in your zip code for accurate weather and local temperatures. I put a few out yesterday but covered them all last night. I think I can leave the covers off at night the rest of the way. They have been just sitting there in the cold weather we have had. At daytime temperatures 50F and lower, they do not seem to grow. They may grow roots, but there is no visibile change in the seedling. The big problem with seedlings that small in the garden is that there is no room for cutworm collars (slit pieces of plastic drinking straw around the stem, maybe an inch or two long) yet. I assume that you are prepared for slugs. __________________ -- alias

May 6, 2011	#47
JoeP Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Posts: 97	Dice, I never saw a cutworm or a slug last year. My raised beds have cinderblocks for a border. I just assumed the slugs won't/can't climb those. My only pest was aphids but only on a couple of plants. I transplanted all of my tiny seedlings into potting soil a couple of nights ago. I had originally transplanted them in seed starting mix. They all seem to be doing better in the potting soil. I may have some tomatoes from my own starts afterall....at least a Galina's since it is an early. I have doubts that the later ones will be able to ripen. Like Stump of the World KBX Brandywine Sudduth Chapman Magnum Beefsteak Mexico Cherokee Chocolate I am not sure if it would be better to let these grow for 2 or 3 weeks in their 4" pots (plant out June 1st) or plant them May 15 at a smaller size? Will this have any effect on when they mature fruit?

May 7, 2011	#49
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	I planted most of mine over the last few days. I am down to some containers now (I need a break in the rain, maybe some more fertilizer, etc). I wanted to get the ones in the ground in before the soil became too wet to work. I do not care if they are small. I want then growing in sunlight as soon as possible. Cutworms are simply a risk until the seedlings get a little taller, when I can collar those that I lack backups for. Eventually the stems get too big around for a cutworm to encircle, and the problem can be ignored. The seedlings that had been outside in coldframes are already hardened off from leaving the cold frames open whenever it was not raining. Only those that have been inside the whole time need some attention to the weather for the next few days (no long stretches of direct sunlight or significant wind). Most of that list I put in the "gambling on a good summer" category. You will probably get some Cherokee Chocolate fruit regardless, along with Galina's, but it may be at the end of summer. I have not seen the cutworms yet when digging in the garden, but I see them every year. They live in/on the ground and feed at night. If you go out at night with a flashlight, you can often find them on the bottoms of leaves of shrubs. The slugs feed mostly at night, too, taking cover from the sunlight during the day. If you put a piece of cardboard out in the yard somewhere, let it rain on it for a few days, then turn it over, you will probably find slugs underneath. Not having slugs and cutworms in Western Washington would be rather miraculous. Cutworm: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutworm You can also put a saucer of beer in the garden and check it the next day to see if there are slugs around (they are attracted to the yeast in the beer, and they crawl in and drown): http://igoyougo.files.wordpress.com/...pg?w=541&h=405 __________________ -- alias

May 6, 2011	#48
cushman350 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Wichita Falls, TX [Tomato Hell] Posts: 99	If there is no danger of frost, I'd get them in their planters so they can get to the business of adapting to outside life and developing their root system unrestrained. Just my opinion.