Silly question from a gardener who should know

[materlvr]

I have a question..after your seeds germinate and it's time to transplant them into individual pots, do you still use the seed starting potting soil or do you use regular potting mix?

I should know the answer to this LOL!

Thanks,

Janie

[nctomatoman]

As always with gardening, there isn't one answer that everyone will (or should!) agree on....and because different people use different mixes - well, you know how it is!

So for me, I use the same mix - my favorite (and not all that easy to find) is MetroMix 360, my second favorite is Fafard 2b (or is it 3b?). I like the MM because it is finer - the Farard has more chunks. I use the MM to both germinate and do the initial transplant into the 3 or 4 inch pots.

I do switch to Miracle Gro potting mix for my 1-10 gallon pots that are the final resting place for the plants, mixed with Moo Nure composted cow manure.

[materlvr]

Thanks, Craig, that's what I do, too. I was wondering if I should transplant directly into soil instead of seed starter mix........maybe that would help get past that dreaded leaves "yellowing-from-the-bottom-up" disease. I've had a horrible year this summer with that problem and wish I could find a solution.

Thanks for your input, Craig. Glad your gardening season is going so well!

[Suze]

I also use the the same mix to pot up my seedlings as I use to start seeds. The last couple of years that's been either MetroMix 360 or 920. Both mixes have a fertilizer charge which IME seems to be perfect for both seed starting and potting up to 4" pots to grow on for 5-6 weeks or so without the need for feeding. If I have to hold the plants much longer than that before they can be planted out, they sometimes get a feeding with seaweed emulsion.

Are you seeing this "yellowing-from-the-bottom-up" start with your seedlings before they go into the garden, or later on?

[materlvr]

Hi, Suze. I've been seeing the yellowing leaves about 3-4 weeks after planting in the garden. This year we had very cold and damp weather here in Temecula. Morning drizzle day after day well into July. I planted out the 2nd weekend in April, but his year most of my plants almost died by the end of May. I use seed starting mix too, and wondered if I could control the whatever-it-is easier if they were transplanted into potting soil.

I only have one-two plants that are giving me fruit. I've had this problem before but not as fast, and the plants usually recover.

Hope next year is better!

[habitat_gardener]

I use purchased mix (or ingredients) for seed starting, but I transplant seedlings into pots with homemade compost. I do that to save $ and time -- my homemade compost is readily available -- and then I have to keep an eye out for weeds in the containers. If I could, I'd start seeds in my compost too, but I've learned that only fast-germinating large seedlings such as legumes work. Everything else gets lost in the weeds (mostly nettles, violas, and other self-seeders that I allow in the garden beds in early spring).

[biscgolf]

i'm with craig... i use metromix 360 for both. (griffin greenhouse supply carries it)

[Suze]

Originally Posted by materlvr

I use seed starting mix too, and wondered if I could control the whatever-it-is easier if they were transplanted into potting soil.

I don't think this would make any difference. Sounds like your problem is mostly or entirely due to unfavorable weather conditions experienced after planting out.

[Suze]

Originally Posted by materlvr

This year we had very cold and damp weather here in Temecula. Morning drizzle day after day well into July. I planted out the 2nd weekend in April, but his year most of my plants almost died by the end of May.

Further thoughts, and you may already be doing / trying some of this stuff!

Raised beds or containers with a light, free-draining mix - allows water to run through so the roots don't get too waterlogged when it's raining a lot.

Wrapping cages or covering plants in row cover/remay - to hold in some heat and help the plants get going / over the hump earlier in the season when weather might still be unstable.

Covering plants with clear plastic to keep rain off of plants - gotta be careful here and I don't dare do this here in Texas because the heat buildup can be surprisingly significant.

Can also be mounted on a framework overhead short-term so the plants aren't entirely enclosed - less chance of excessive heat buildup.

[amideutch]

Janie, The method I use pretty much eliminates handling of seedlings and transplant shock. Here's a link, Ami

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...ior#post166727

[Heritage]

Janie,

I'm about 10 miles South of you and I planted out about the same time you did. I had no problems with my seedlings after planting so I'm thinking you might have a problem with your soil - either a lack of fertilizer or poor drainage (too much water). Did you add anything to the soil before you planted?

Also, make sure you harden off the seedlings before planting them out.

Suze's suggestion of planting in a container is a good way to have a few control plants. Plant a few plants in the containers with a good potting mix and then you will have eliminated a few variables and will have something to compare with the rest of your 'soil-planted' garden tomatoes.

If you have problems next spring just post a few photos, I bet it is an easy problem to solve.

Steve

[materlvr]

[QUOTE=Heritage;230794]Janie,

I'm about 10 miles South of you and I planted out about the same time you did. I had no problems with my seedlings after planting so I'm thinking you might have a problem with your soil - either a lack of fertilizer or poor drainage (too much water). Did you add anything to the soil before you planted?

Also, make sure you harden off the seedlings before planting them out.

Suze's suggestion of planting in a container is a good way to have a few control plants. Plant a few plants in the containers with a good potting mix and then you will have eliminated a few variables and will have something to compare with the rest of your 'soil-planted' garden tomatoes.

If you have problems next spring just post a few photos, I bet it is an easy problem to solve.

Hi, Steve. My tomatoes are planted in a raised bed, with new potting soil. I used the same potting soil as always. I got my seedlings from three different sources. This spring was really drizzly here in the mornings, burning off at about noon-1:00. I didn't fertilize at all, as always. After the morning dampness ended and the weather warmed up, what few branches on my plants have have recovered. I haven't had any more problems. It took forever for it to warm up here. Do you live inland? Escondido? I don't know if were have the same micro-climate, but I'll give you a shout next April!

I'm used to having about 30 baby maters each plant by mid-May. I've never had a year like this

Janie

[Heritage]

Originally Posted by materlvr

. After the morning dampness ended and the weather warmed up, what few branches on my plants have have recovered. I haven't had any more problems. It took forever for it to warm up here. Do you live inland? Escondido?
Janie

Janie, I'm at the intersection of 76 and 15, but I'm up in the hills. I bet our climates are just different enough to make the difference. If everything greened up with the warmer weather then it sure does sound like a weather thing. Not to worry - next March/April will be perfect tomato weather

[materlvr]

Steve, from your lips to God's ear..........