Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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June 21, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas 7B
Posts: 10
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Stump of the World leaves turning yelllow
Do I have a problem here with some of the leaves on a couple of my Stump Of The World plants starting to turn yellow?
New growth on the top of the plant looks good. These leaves are in the middle of the plant. Temps have been in the low to mid 90's. Plants are watered once a week with soaker hoses for about an hour (approx 1"). Plants ar mulched with shredded leaves. Thanks for any help. sotw1.JPG Close up of the yellow leaves sotw2.JPG Whole plant sotw3.JPG Seems to be setting fruit ok, so far |
June 21, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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Your plant looks quite good to me. However, it appears to be in need of prunning. The interior growth is yellowing due to lack of light. It appears that there is so much growth that there is poor air circulation in the center of your plant which could lead to disease and molds. I would thin the growth to open up the plant a bit. Remove all the bottom growth and thin the interior to allow sun and air flow in.
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~ Patti ~ |
June 22, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas 7B
Posts: 10
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There is quite a bit of growth and two rows of plants in that bed. I will open it up and see if that helps. Thanks!
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June 22, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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I agree I never let my plant get like this i would cut a lot off the stems without flowers or fruits.
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June 22, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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Looks like a foliage disease to me. Anyone else?
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June 22, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: West Virginia - Zone 6
Posts: 594
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Some of the interior leaves higher up in the plant could be the result of lack of light. However, some looks like the beginning of early blight - don't freak out I said early blight (foilage disease) not late blight (stem disease that knocks them dead). In most cases early blight tends to start at the bottom of the plant and work up. So if that's what you saw/experienced that could be it. The tall tell sign that it is early blight is that as it progresses you'll get the classic bull's eye target alternating yellow brown thingy. Anyhow a few of my plants are in the early stages of developing what I think is a foliage disease (most probably early blight) brought on by the spores of course and the weather. Mine is on the lower leaves only. And one of the plants just happens to be Stump of the World. I'll try to remember to take and post pictures.
It's so hard to tell things on the internet through pictures - it's much easier in real life. Good luck. Randy |
June 22, 2012 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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It also can be the beginning of fusarium wilt; but from the look of the plant it should be fine. If you do have it it looks mild and Stump is one of the more tolerant heirlooms.
I also agree your plant is too dense for proper air circulation and you could be getting some Early Blight or just yellowing from lack of light. If you have a stem that has more yellow than the others and suddenly wilts then you probably have fusarium wilt. |
June 22, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas 7B
Posts: 10
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I plan to prune some this weekend. Hopefully that will help.
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June 23, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: West Virginia - Zone 6
Posts: 594
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Here are pictures of my Stump of the World leaves that I mentioned earlier. In my case I know that it is the beginning of a foilage disease most probably Early Blight which has been brought on by hot humid weather. I've also included pictures of an Early Girl and a Cherokee Purple plant because they are thick plants but show no signs of foliage disease. The Stump of the World plant isn't as thick because I pruned it. BTW, the plants have been in the ground around 6 weeks.
Randy p.s. I plan on removing the affected leaves and spraying with a fungal spray (I use Serenade and a Copper based spray both of which are organic). Last edited by WVTomatoMan; June 23, 2012 at 12:57 PM. Reason: Added the p.s. |
June 23, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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They look pretty good Randy, a lot of us have a touch of the Early Blight on some plants, not a big deal as long as we keep it under control.
How are you applying Serenade and the Copper Spray? Coppers are highly anti-bacterial, it'll kill the Bacillus subtilis in Serenade. |
June 23, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas 7B
Posts: 10
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I probably have my plants too dense. I have two 5x16 beds with two rows of 6 plants in each bed (12 plants per bed). Spacing is 2.5 ft between the plants in the rows and 3 ft between the rows. Using the florida weave for support. Two plants between posts. I am thinking of lengthing the beds to 18ft next year to give them a little more room. Transplanted to the beds on 4/5.
Varieties are Stump, Pink & Red Brandywine, Donskoi, Rutgers, Black from Tula, Kellog's Breakfast, Pantano Romanesco, Ed's Fat Plum, and Sungold. Stump is the only one so far turning yellow although the Black from Tula has had leave curl pretty bad almost the whole season. |
June 25, 2012 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: West Virginia - Zone 6
Posts: 594
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Quote:
Randy Last edited by WVTomatoMan; June 25, 2012 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Typo |
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June 27, 2012 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 707
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Stump of the World has always had a problem in my gardens with being the first to show signs of early blight and/or septoria. The other has been Limbaugh's Legacy.
This year I didn't plant either of them and I was shocked to see Barlow Jap being the first to show signs of these diseases. It's usually very tolerant and one of the last to do so. I've always had this start on the lowest leaves of the plant and not in the middle. I simply remove the infected branches as I don't like applying chemicals to my gardens. Good Luck with your pruning and I hope it solves your problem. Enjoy! Camo |
July 1, 2012 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Arkansas 7B
Posts: 10
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Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Pruning didn't seem to help and I think the plants are too far gone this year for any sprays. Next year I will keep closer tabs and jump on those leaves sooner. All plants are showing signs of blight at this point. Been in the 100's here for the last two weeks, no rain in sight and no break in the weather.
On to the fall garden!! |
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