Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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May 25, 2012 | #46 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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May 25, 2012 | #47 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 196
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I think the product Azatrol Insecticide is basically the same as Azamax but looks to be cheaper, at least from this site it is $59 with free shipping for a quart.
http://www.chemicaloutfitters.com/azatrol.aspx |
May 25, 2012 | #48 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: south carolina
Posts: 28
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checkerkitty... its not that the green light is not a good product.. i just feel its very weak.. which only means it definitely should be used before threat of predators... if u already do have the pest problem u may still be able to use the green light with success but remember that most pests develop a tolerance for pyrethrins so its gonna hurt you ... green light will not knock spider mites out in one application... it will have to be used multiple times. green light is a great product for prevention don't get me wrong and u may have better luck if you double the frequency of spraying.. i would say one table a gallon every 3 days will at least keep the mites from webbing out and robbing you of your plants... spray when the sun goes down u won't have to worry about any kind of fungus or rot due to the neem being a fungi stat... still say u just go and order a 20 buck bottle of azamax from gh
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May 26, 2012 | #49 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Christy |
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May 26, 2012 | #50 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: IL
Posts: 87
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I have been using Dr. Bronners soap and I am seeing a lot less so I guess it is working. I think it started on my broccoli and they moved on down the line to the other boxes. I have been spraying the ground around the boxes, the sides and the tops. Yesterday my boxes had tons of spider mites. Today I have seen less than 20 so I am going to keep spraying.
Last edited by Chrissykin; May 26, 2012 at 11:33 AM. |
June 30, 2012 | #51 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Well I guess the IRG wore off or broke down because the spider mites came back with a vengence over the past week. I didn't have a chance to spray for nearly a week and they really did a number on my plants. I finally got to spray yesterday evening but the wind was so bad I don't think I got adequate coverage and it may be too late for most of the plants anyway. Oh well some of my fall seedlings are nearly ready to start setting out if we can get a break in the heat. I need to go get another bottle of IGR because I used the last of it yesterday.
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June 30, 2012 | #52 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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What kind are you using?
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July 3, 2012 | #53 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Organophosphates kill spider mites.
If you took one of these: http://www.hotshot.com/Products-and-...est-Strip.aspx and hung it on the plant at dusk with a garbage bag tied over the plant to seal in the air, you would gas the little suckers and they would all be dead overnight. It would probably be easier to just buy a professional quality spray. However, the evolutionary mechanism that keeps spider mites alive is that they lay a ton of eggs with staggered times to hatch. That's the only defense they have, and it's all they need. That's why they are so hard to fully get rid of. If you are averse to chemicals, you can buy predator mites, and they do work. But the predator mites will eat all the spider mites, starve to death, and be gone before the last spider mite eggs stop hatching. |
July 5, 2012 | #54 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Edmond OK
Posts: 4
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I've added some ladybugs to my little greenhouse for this awful problem . I hope it helps! My tomatoes were so beautiful and within a couple of weeks they've gone downhill. I think next year u am going to do preemptive strike on these pests!
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July 5, 2012 | #55 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Lady bugs will eat mites, but they prefer aphids. If you kept them locked in the greenhouse and mites were their only food, that might work. I think if they had the chance, they would fly away and look for some aphids to eat.
Predator mites work much better if you don't want to spray. They are $15 at worm's way: http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?sku=PM700 It is a lot of fun to release them and watch them with a magnifying glass as they eat your spider mites. They remind me of the velociraptors from the movie Jurassic Park. |
July 5, 2012 | #56 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Edmond OK
Posts: 4
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Thanks ! That's good info!
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July 5, 2012 | #57 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Edmond OK
Posts: 4
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How much do you use?
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July 5, 2012 | #58 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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It says one container of 100 mites treats 25 square feet. It's more important to keep re-introducing them than it is to buy a bunch at once. Plus, you never know how well they will work. On a hot day, my greenhouse doors are open and the sides are up. I would think that a strong wind might blow away the predator mites.
Just watch the spider mite population as it goes up and down. Some of their eggs will stay viable for months, much longer than a predator mite can live. It would be great if the predator mites could stay alive all summer, but they always seem to run out of spider mites to eat and then starve. |
July 5, 2012 | #59 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Edmond OK
Posts: 4
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Do you dilute the Dr. Bronner's
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July 5, 2012 | #60 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Quote:
Also remember that if you buy predator mites, you can't spray anything at all. Neem oil and soap will kill all the adult mites they hit, predator or spider, and the spider mites have the egg-laying advantage. That's another disadvantage of using the predator mites. |
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