Early Blight might be in my garden

[Elliot]

Three of my tomato plants, grape, are large, have lots of green fruit but ar showing signs of lower branches and leaves turning orange. This might be the blight because our local newspaper has reported it in 50 Long Island farms.

Assumming this is blight, what can I do to protect the rest of the plant as well as my other tomato plants?

[Cole_Robbie]

I'd spray daconil.

[PA_Julia]

I agree with Cole Robbie, spray a fungicide like Daconil or another brand.

Maintain a spraying schedule.

I've been spraying my plants with fungicide every week when it was rainy and now every two weeks since it's been hot and dry.


Julia

[raindrops27]

Elliot,

I remember you from last year basically with the same post just follow the same advice as you got last year, spray with a fungicide.

[Elliot]

Last year I bought
bonide antifugal. For blight, is this okay?

[PA_Julia]

Elliot,

Yes I use that exact brand.

It works well.


Julia

[Elliot]

Do you spray the entire plant or only the areas where you suspect the blight? Are any of these products dangerous in terms of getting into the fruit?

[Tania]

[deleted] - I misread the original post. My apologies!

[JamesL]

Originally Posted by Elliot

Three of my tomato plants, grape, are large, have lots of green fruit but ar showing signs of lower branches and leaves turning orange. This might be the blight because our local newspaper has reported it in 50 Long Island farms.

Assumming this is blight, what can I do to protect the rest of the plant as well as my other tomato plants?

Elliot, I read about the EB in Suffolk as well. My neighbor has either EB or Septoria. They always look the same to me. I have taken over spraying his plants as well as mine. (I don't have it - yet)
Been alternating weekly between spraying with actinovate and Serenade.
Respraying after it rains. Has definitely slowed it down.
Spray, prune what you can. Now just a race to harvest.

[greenthumbomaha]

I've read the excellent posts on this forum on tomato diseases, but I too have difficulty distinguishing between the two diseases. Could someone please further clarify how to identify EB vs Septoria. Unfortunately. count me in the crowd with a few problem plants that are still hanging in there after pruning. Thank-you!

[JamesL]

Green thumb,
Hopefully someone can give you an answer.
For my part, I don't worry too much it it is Septoria or EB.
Treatment is the same. Spray the fungicide of choice and prune.

[RayR]

Originally Posted by greenthumbomaha

I've read the excellent posts on this forum on tomato diseases, but I too have difficulty distinguishing between the two diseases. Could someone please further clarify how to identify EB vs Septoria. Unfortunately. count me in the crowd with a few problem plants that are still hanging in there after pruning. Thank-you!

Please read these articles and you will know how to identify these diseases.
Don't be surprised if you have both of these diseases at the same time since the spores of EB and Septoria are both prevalent in most areas.

Early Blight

SEPTORIA LEAF SPOT OF TOMATO

[ca1ore]

Both early clight and septoria are persistent in the northeast - I have symptoms every year to one degree or another. A fungicide will generally hold them off long enough to get a bounty crop. Late blight is a whole other kettle of fish.

[feldon30]

Originally Posted by Elliot

Do you spray the entire plant or only the areas where you suspect the blight? Are any of these products dangerous in terms of getting into the fruit?

When in doubt, read package directions.

Daconil (chlorothalonil) is safe to eat fruit (after washing it) one day after spraying.