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Old December 31, 2012   #1
MikeInOhio
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Default Nice Cold Frame Design

I have a nice cold frame design that I have used for years. It’s cheap, easy to assemble, and durable. The ones pictured are all 4’ x 8’, but I have others in smaller sizes too.

You should frame everything out of regular 2x4 lumber, not the treated stuff- it weighs too much and costs more. Each unit uses 14 or 15 pieces of 2x4x8’ lumber, is fastened with 2.5” decking screws, and covered with plastic. I staple the plastic down and then put 1”x2” batton strips over some of it. This helps keep the plastic from tearing off during high winds.

Each of these units breaks down into 4 wall sections and two roof sections- the roof is two pieces on each of them. It takes me about 10 minutes to disassemble one unit. The sections are quite easy to store. The plastic can be re-used too if you are careful when removing it from the frame.

I hinge some of the roof sections, and others I just slide open when it gets warm.

These units also work great when placed directly over the garden soil to extend your season.
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Old December 31, 2012   #2
baileyj
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Very Nice design !
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Old January 1, 2013   #3
cinnaminn23
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Hubby asks, what is the thickness of the plastic? Thanks!

Cindy
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Old January 1, 2013   #4
easttx_hippie
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Cindy, for something like that I'd probably use 6 mil plastic. I've got 6 mil on my greenhouse and it's still doing great in its second winter. I see no reason I won't be able to use it a third and possibly a fourth year. I only use it from late November until early March though.

I use my cold frames (made from a couple of recycled windows) almost the same as my greenhouse.....just another way to keep food growing longer. I do like the ones that Mike in Ohio built. I could use a couple of those to fit over my raised beds and then I could really cheat Jack Frost.
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Old January 1, 2013   #5
JiminNJ
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Very nice, how high are they? do you think 2x3s would work
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Old January 1, 2013   #6
MikeInOhio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinnaminn23 View Post
Hubby asks, what is the thickness of the plastic? Thanks!

Cindy
I use 4 mil or 6 mil plastic. It holds up fine for 3 or 4 seasons.
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Old January 1, 2013   #7
Rockporter
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How does the water drain off when it is raining? Does it pool on the top? We get very heavy rains here and I like your idea and might put it to use.
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Old January 1, 2013   #8
cinnaminn23
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Thanks to both replies re: plastic thickness; think we'll try to build something this season.

Cindy & Brad
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Old January 2, 2013   #9
MikeInOhio
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Quote:
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How does the water drain off when it is raining? Does it pool on the top? We get very heavy rains here and I like your idea and might put it to use.
I poke two holes in each top section with a pencil. You just need to make sure you don't have any tender potted plants directly beneath the holes.
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Old January 3, 2013   #10
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Mike,

Are you using clear plastic sheeting from Home Depot or purchasing the UV resistant material from a green house supplier? I've found the Big Box stuff only lasts one season on PVC hoops over my raised beds. It becomes brittle in the sunlight and falls apart by the end of summer.


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Old January 3, 2013   #11
lakelady
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very nice! I keep telling myself that I'll make one soon and never seem to get around to them
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Old January 3, 2013   #12
Rockporter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeInOhio View Post
I poke two holes in each top section with a pencil. You just need to make sure you don't have any tender potted plants directly beneath the holes.
Thank you for the reply.
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Old January 3, 2013   #13
MikeInOhio
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Mike,

Are you using clear plastic sheeting from Home Depot or purchasing the UV resistant material from a green house supplier? I've found the Big Box stuff only lasts one season on PVC hoops over my raised beds. It becomes brittle in the sunlight and falls apart by the end of summer.


Ted
Ted,

Yes, I use the Home Depot plastic, but I disassemble the cold frames in mid May. They usually don't go back up until early October.

I'm sure that if they were out all summer the plastic would start to degrade.

-Mike
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Old January 3, 2013   #14
tedln
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I've often thought about building some cold frames similar to the ones you built, only taller. I actually bought the 2" X 4" studs a couple of times last winter, but wound up using them on a new deck I was building. I used 1/2" pvc pipe as hoops over some raised beds covered with the clear plastic in the winter and shade cloth when the weather got hot and they worked well. Last winter it was so warm, I moved my plants outside within three or four weeks after germinating under lights in early January.. I left them outside unless cold weather or high winds was in the weather forecast. This winter, we have already had about ten nights below freezing and El Paso had some snow today. I may soon be purchasing some more lumber for the cold frames. I like your design. Did you put hinges on the back of the lids or do you just lift them off?

Ted
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Old January 4, 2013   #15
MikeInOhio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedln View Post
I've often thought about building some cold frames similar to the ones you built, only taller. I actually bought the 2" X 4" studs a couple of times last winter, but wound up using them on a new deck I was building. I used 1/2" pvc pipe as hoops over some raised beds covered with the clear plastic in the winter and shade cloth when the weather got hot and they worked well. Last winter it was so warm, I moved my plants outside within three or four weeks after germinating under lights in early January.. I left them outside unless cold weather or high winds was in the weather forecast. This winter, we have already had about ten nights below freezing and El Paso had some snow today. I may soon be purchasing some more lumber for the cold frames. I like your design. Did you put hinges on the back of the lids or do you just lift them off?

Ted
Hi Ted,

I start my tomatoes and peppers inside around March 25th, keep them inside until late April, and then put them in the cold frame for 3 or 4 weeks. We usually plant here in late May.

Most of my units are 18"-24" tall since I use them primarily for tomatoes and peppers. I wanted to make things as light as possible, but I see no reason that they can't be taller. I also have several units that are 12" high that I use for lettuce and cabbage. I place them directly over the garden soil in March and sow my seeds once the soil has warmed.

Yes, I have hinged some of the tomato and pepper units- had a thunderstorm several springs ago that blew the lids off. I don't hinge the lettuce/cabbage units, I just slide them.

-Mike
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