Blight Prevention when Planting

[amideutch]

The products I listed above I use a teaspoon each of the MycoGrow and Actinovate and 1/4 tablet of the Biota Max to a gallon of water.. Otherwise use the dilution recommendations listed on the product used.
Ami

[guruofgardens]

Thanks, Ami! It will be nice to see a garden filled with healthy plants. Prevention and hard work at the beginning of growing season make for more smiles at harvest time.

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by amideutch

The first thing we need to do is inoculate the seedling with beneficial fungi and bacteria during plant out. Why, because we want these beneficial fungi and bacteria to establish a symbiotic relationship between the roots and the rhizophere that the plant will be growing in.
Once the relationship is established the plant growth will increase due to increased nutrient uptake and at the same time this symbiotic relationship will help the plant protect itself against disease.
How, by making a dip solution containing beneficial fungi and bacteria. I use MycoGrow soluable, Actinovate and Biota-Max. Dip the plants root ball in the dip, remove and allow to drain and plant. Couldn't be easier. Ami

What about new seeds each season.. why do the seed packs say these seeds grow disease resistant tomayo plants etc.. Are the seeds treated for these blight diseases herbicides etc.? btw great info writing this down,, also a good read about lawn and garden herbicides http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extm...D/ID_184_W.pdf

[feldon30]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

What about new seeds each season.. why do the seed packs say these seeds grow disease resistant tomayo plants etc.. Are the seeds treated for these blight diseases herbicides etc.? btw great info writing this down,, also a good read about lawn and garden herbicides http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extm...D/ID_184_W.pdf

Tomato seeds are good for 7-10 years. There is no need to buy "fresh" seeds every year.

There is a lot of marketing hype about disease resistance and so on. You need to find out what tomato diseases are an issue in your area and then decide if you can limit yourself to the tomato varieties which have tolerances towards them, or if you will take action to prevent these diseases and then grow what you like. You may notice certain letters after tomato varieties like VFNT.

V - Verticillium
F - Fusarium
RKN or N - Root Knot Nematodes
A - Alternaria
T - Tobacco Mosaic

These diseases are not all present nationwide and depend entirely on your area and past outbreaks. There are beneficial microbes you can add to the soil which mitigate some of these issues.

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by feldon30

Tomato seeds are good for 7-10 years. There is no need to buy "fresh" seeds every year.

There is a lot of marketing hype about disease resistance and so on. You need to find out what tomato diseases are an issue in your area and then decide if you can limit yourself to the tomato varieties which have tolerances towards them, or if you will take action to prevent these diseases and then grow what you like. You may notice certain letters after tomato varieties like VFNT.

V - Verticillium
F - Fusarium
RKN or N - Root Knot Nematodes
A - Alternaria
T - Tobacco Mosaic

These diseases are not all present nationwide and depend entirely on your area and past outbreaks. There are beneficial microbes you can add to the soil which mitigate some of these issues.

Thank you for answering, man I sure hope nothing is wrong with my soil.. I'm going to plant peas tomorrow using the freshly tilled garden and another pot of fresh clean potting mix.. this will be all i need.. I also going to transplant a few germinated tomato seedlings into a small sample test pot.. if it turns out something is wrong with my soil.. HOW DO EVEN WITH THE REST OF THE WORLD

[nnjjohn]

Check this out I found it on another site..think it is gardenweb ? any way a copy excerpt.. Herbicides definitely can be an issue with horse manure. From an NC State article: "Aminopyralid, clopyralid, fluroxypry, picloram, and triclopyr are in a class of herbicides known as pyridine carboxylic acids. They are registered for application to pasture, grain crops, lawns, certain vegetables and fruits, and roadsides. They are used to control a wide variety of broadleaf weeds. If these herbicides are used on a pasture or hayfield, they apparently don't harm the animals grazing on the pasture or eating the hay. But some of these herbicides can be persistent and may remain active in the hay, straw, grass clippings, and manure, even after they are composted. Some of these herbicides have a half life of 300 days or more and aminopyralid has been reported to remain active in compost for several years. A problem sometimes arises when these materials, particularly manure and compost, are applied to fields and gardens to raise certain vegetables and flowers. The herbicides of greatest concern are picloram, clopyralid, and aminopyralid. The garden plants that are most sensitive to this class of herbicides are tomatoes, potatoes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, peas, beans, dahlias, and some roses."

[RayR]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

Thank you for answering, man I sure hope nothing is wrong with my soil.. I'm going to plant peas tomorrow using the freshly tilled garden and another pot of fresh clean potting mix.. this will be all i need.. I also going to transplant a few germinated tomato seedlings into a small sample test pot.. if it turns out something is wrong with my soil.. HOW DO EVEN WITH THE REST OF THE WORLD

Yep, quite a bit of hype out there on seed packets, hybrids in particular. Disease resistance does not mean disease immunity. The resistance to specific pathogens is genetic, it has nothing to do with seed treatments.
You can do a sample test pot with your native soil, but that may or may not prove you have a soil born pathogen present like Verticillium. Fusarium and Root Knot Nematodes are not likely in Northern States like NJ.
More common pathogens like Early Blight (Alternaria solani) or Septoria are fungal, there may be spores that overwintered on plant debris in your soil or not, but these diseases usually don't even show themselves until mid-season. Besides, your soil could be clean and you could still get these diseases from spores blowing in on the wind.

[nnjjohn]

Exactly what I was thinking knowing all these landscapers do is use weed and feeds on just about every lawn in my area. I grew good plants last season but there is something deficient in one of my gardens.. i always thought it was not enough sun.. still those tomato plants did look stressed and stunted.. took forever to produce only few fruit too in one of my beds.. perhaps it is wise to do a systematic soil analysis starting with the test grow sample pots I mentioned.. from there I can take a sample and have it tested at a lab.. i read that herbicide testing is possible but not worth the money for small gardens .. and wind born herbicides will always be a threat. This whole thing about diseases and chemicals can get old fast.. I'll just do my best , plant and see what happens go from there. And keep in touch here as my garden grows

[RayR]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

Exactly what I was thinking knowing all these landscapers do is use weed and feeds on just about every lawn in my area. I grew good plants last season but there is something deficient in one of my gardens.. i always thought it was not enough sun.. still those tomato plants did look stressed and stunted.. took forever to produce only few fruit too in one of my beds.. perhaps it is wise to do a systematic soil analysis starting with the test grow sample pots I mentioned.. from there I can take a sample and have it tested at a lab.. i read that herbicide testing is possible but not worth the money for small gardens .. and wind born herbicides will always be a threat. This whole thing about diseases and chemicals can get old fast.. I'll just do my best , plant and see what happens go from there. And keep in touch here as my garden grows

If you suspect you have herbicide contamination, do what Ami said and inoculate your soil with beneficial microbes, the enzymes some produce are known to break down herbicides. Also amend your soil with humic subtances like compost, probably I would even add a liquid humic acid drench. Humic and fulvic acids are known to bind up herbicide molecules in the soil. It can't hurt and it definitely can help whether you have herbicide contamination or not.

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by RayR

If you suspect you have herbicide contamination, do what Ami said and inoculate your soil with beneficial microbes, the enzymes some produce are known to break down herbicides. Also amend your soil with humic subtances like compost, probably I would even add a liquid humic acid drench. Humic and fulvic acids are known to bind up herbicide molecules in the soil. It can't hurt and it definitely can help whether you have herbicide contamination or not.

Ray, I do suspect something is wrong, I been adding to my tomato garden unknowingly the risky stable horse mix. I will take your advice but not sure where or shop for those substances you mentioned here. thanks,, btw could I find that stuff at home depot or what do you suggest? tia, john

[zeroma]

Something I just learned:

Are you a smoker. If you smoke in your garden area, you can spread "T - Tobacco Mosaic Virus" !

[RayR]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

Ray, I do suspect something is wrong, I been adding to my tomato garden unknowingly the risky stable horse mix. I will take your advice but not sure where or shop for those substances you mentioned here. thanks,, btw could I find that stuff at home depot or what do you suggest? tia, john

For Ami's dip method,

MycoGrow Soluble you can order direct from http://fungi.com/

Actinovate you might find at a local garden center, I've never found it in my area so I order it from the hydrotoyou store on ebay. $16.49 for the 2oz pack is a great price with free shipping.

Biota Max you can order direct from http://www.biotamax.com
Check the links to the specific crops on the far right, you'll find some with a price of $5.85/tablet and some for $7.88/tablet. Don't know why that is, but I buy it for $5.85/tablet. Free shipping there too.

Big box stores aren't very hip when it comes to products like this, you'd be better off looking into a local organic gardening center if you have one or a local hydroponics store is a great place to find similar Myco/Trichoderma/Bacteria inoculants and Humic acid products.

Online, KELP4LESS is a good place to find Humic Acid/Fulvic Acid soluble powders you can mix yourself. They also have inoculants and lots of other things.

[nnjjohn]

I'm not interested in spending much for chemicles,, Can I sue the government for invasive FDA approved chemical poisoning btw I hate all these DHS agents on and offline,, may they burn in hell for their treachery

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by zeroma

Something I just learned:

Are you a smoker. If you smoke in your garden area, you can spread "T - Tobacco Mosaic Virus" !

Are you serious? I know a lot about invasive sh=i

[Al@NC]

TMV is for real, look at the disease resistance (bottom tab) for sungold!

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7929-sun-gold-f1.aspx