Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
July 16, 2010 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a
Posts: 421
|
Quote:
__________________
Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes .......... |
|
July 16, 2010 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 436
|
LOL Talon, my Legend has a tomato! Yup, the deer left 1 bloom and 1 leaf and the bloom is turning into a tomato. I swear, that plant is almost as much a pain as the Chocolate Stripe!
|
July 17, 2010 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 436
|
Okay, I spent a lot of time digging today, mostly by hand!!! Dang rocks! And have decided to go with the "trench method."
mjc - I have an 8 ft rod, should it be 2 ft deep at the deepest point? Thanks |
July 18, 2010 | #19 | |
Tomatoville® Administrator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Bay State
Posts: 3,207
|
Quote:
Your ground rod needs to be a minimum of 4 feet deep for it to really be effective. I know it can be a lot of work to get it down that deep, but any less and your fence will not deliver much of a shock at all, especially when using a smaller energizer. I'd hate to see you go through all the work of installing posts, adding insulators, stringing wire and baiting the fence only to have it be too weak to deter anything at all. As I said in my first post, inadequate grounding is the number one reason why electric fences fail to work. When you ground an electric fence, what you are doing is actually charging the earth/soil/ground with a negative charge. Your fence wires are charged positive and when an animal or person touches the fence, they "complete the circuit", so to speak, and the positive flow of electricity travels through their body into the ground. If the soil around the fence doesn't have an adequate negative charge, the electricity from the positive wire will not flow through the animal because the positive current will not be able to overcome the natural resistance of the animal's body to complete the circuit. The only other grounding method that I've seen (that worked) at a lesser depth was at a wild animal farm (zoo) in N.H. They buried a 4' x 8' section of galvanized chain link fence two feet down and attached several wires to it that were joined together and connected to the negative post on the energizer. This might be an option for you, if you can't get your rod any deeper than 2 feet. You can get a section of galvanized fencing at Tractor Supply or your local fence installer for a reasonable price.
__________________
Mischka One last word of farewell, Dear Master and Mistress. Whenever you visit my grave, say to yourselves with regret but also with happiness in your hearts at the remembrance of my long happy life with you: "Here lies one who loved us and whom we loved." No matter how deep my sleep I shall hear you, and not all the power of death can keep my spirit from wagging a grateful tail. |
|
July 18, 2010 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 436
|
I found these:
http://www.thecattlesite.com/article...c-fence-review http://www.grangecoop.com/tipsFR.shtml http://www.iowabeefcenter.org/conten...Energizers.pdf which all talk about placing the rods in trenches if necessary... so it looks like that is, indeed, an option. |
July 18, 2010 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 219
|
I have 2 aluminum ground rods, i'd guess they're 4 or 5 ft long. my fence is a solar model that doesnt generate a lot of power, but it seems to work for deer over the last 16 months in an area with lots of deer. i use the poly string with aluminum wire woven in.
|
July 18, 2010 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a
Posts: 421
|
You are doing well here........
__________________
Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes .......... |
July 18, 2010 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 436
|
Done! My arms (and hands) are killing me!!! The majority of the digging was done by hand - as in, one handful at a time!!! I splurged on gloves this afternoon; best $3 I've spent in a LONG time.
I didn't want to put all of the rocks back in the hole, so I filled it with peat and covered that with the dirt I had dug out... will probably pile the rocks on top, just for fun. I figure the peat will help keep the moisture level up. I'll "water" it whenever I water my maters too, just to be sure! So, the fence is baited - peanut butter smeared foil, dipped in applesauce - and ON!!! I will sleep well tonight!!! Oh yeah, here are a couple pics... the first shows the rocks, keep in mind you can only see about half of them. The 2nd shows the deepest part of the trench, with solid rock walls and bottom... wasn't getting past 2' without a stick of dynamite. |
July 22, 2010 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
|
That looks like a mineral rich soil to me.
Has anyone tried sinking their ground rod in the edge of a pond or creek? Would that be a usable option for good grounding of an electric fence?
__________________
-- alias |
July 24, 2010 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
|
Wow, & I thought I had a lot of rocks here. Looks like you build a wall out of the ground as you dig it.
|
July 25, 2010 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central VA
Posts: 436
|
dice - I think I read somewhere that a low-lying area that never dries out completely is a good place to put the ground rod, so I'd think the edge of a pond would be good.
Timmah - You ain't kiddin'!!! The only "good" thing about the rocks here is that they're "flaky" so I was able to break and split them down to a manageable size! |
July 25, 2010 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
|
Irrigating the soil where that rod is buried might help a lot.
__________________
-- alias |
April 26, 2013 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Floyd VA
Posts: 771
|
Just want to say THANKS to Mischka and the others who contributed to this old thread - it was very helpful!
I just built an electric fence around my new garden in rural southwest Virginia where the deer and smaller critters prance across the property daily. I strung five layers of six-wire polywire at 5", 12", 21", 31", and 40", energized with a Zareba 25 mile AC charger. The corner posts are 8' 4x4s and the line posts are 7' steel T-posts. It is grounded with two 6' galvanized steel rods driven straight down, and I baited the two top wires with peanut butter on tin foil. I also strung three layers of white cord above the polywire up to 6' just as an additional deterrent, but having accidentally touched the charged wire a couple of times I can't imagine the critters returning after getting zapped. Nonetheless I think I'll extend the height up to a total of 8" with the last two feet being angled outward. For anyone else considering building an electric fence, this site has some really helpful videos that walk you through it: http://www.electric-deer-fence.com/i...tion/index.htm TomNJ/VA |
|
|