Planting Carrot Seed- Board Method

Durgan · April 27, 2013

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?PHAIP 27 April 2013 Planting Carrot

Two 12 foot rows of carrots were planted using the BOARD METHOD. The carrot selection was random from my supplier. The row was rototilled, raked smooth, and marked with a board. Each carrot seed was planted individually by laying on top of the ground so they don’t touch and gently pushed with the finger. This means thinning is not required and harvesting is simplified, since no carrots are intertwined. Carrots do not germinate if temperature is above 30C or if they dry out. The board keeps a relatively constant temperature, keeps the seed damp, and prevents seed movement if it rains.Watering is by running water on top of the board. Sufficient weeps under to wet the seeds.Cross pieces were placed under the board to lift it slightly so the emerging plants are not obstructed. The board is removed immediately after germination. Reminder most seeds do not require light to germinate. I tend to use the BOARD METHOD for most of my seed planting now.

MrBig46 · April 29, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durgan

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?PHAIP 27 April 2013 Planting Carrot

Two 12 foot rows of carrots were planted using the BOARD METHOD. The carrot selection was random from my supplier. The row was rototilled, raked smooth, and marked with a board. Each carrot seed was planted individually by laying on top of the ground so they don’t touch and gently pushed with the finger. This means thinning is not required and harvesting is simplified, since no carrots are intertwined. Carrots do not germinate if temperature is above 30C or if they dry out. The board keeps a relatively constant temperature, keeps the seed damp, and prevents seed movement if it rains.Watering is by running water on top of the board. Sufficient weeps under to wet the seeds.Cross pieces were placed under the board to lift it slightly so the emerging plants are not obstructed. The board is removed immediately after germination. Reminder most seeds do not require light to germinate. I tend to use the BOARD METHOD for most of my seed planting now.

Your board method appeals me. I shall test it tomorrow
Vladimír

Patihum · April 29, 2013

I'd read about this before but had never found anyone that had actually used this method. The details never mentioned to use the cross pieces to raise the board and I was wondering what would happen when the seed germinated with a board right on top of it. Something else I'm trying this year is using homemade seed tape using toilet paper. Supposedly it help keeps the seed moist. I know - kinda a crafty thing but it was cold and rainy and I was bored.

Durgan · April 30, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patihum

I'd read about this before but had never found anyone that had actually used this method. The details never mentioned to use the cross pieces to raise the board and I was wondering what would happen when the seed germinated with a board right on top of it. Something else I'm trying this year is using homemade seed tape using toilet paper. Supposedly it help keeps the seed moist. I know - kinda a crafty thing but it was cold and rainy and I was bored.

Don't bother with the toilet paper. It is a disaster. The paper dries out quickly and tears easily. I tried it a few years ago. The absolute best is the board.

buenaventura43 · April 30, 2013

What is the spacing and how wide is the board?

Durgan · April 30, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by buenaventura43

What is the spacing and how wide is the board?

I use a three, four or five inch board or whatever is handy. Spacing between rows is about 12 inches, just enough room to harvest easily. Each seed is about an inch from its mate, as long as they don't touch to prevent intertwining. Cover with soil very lightly or even better if the soil is loose let the initial watering do the covering. A little time spend in planting makes harvesting easy;in that, one fork width is a carrot bunch. The purpose of the board is to keep the seed moist, and to prevent them from getting too warm from a hot Sun.

barkeater · April 30, 2013

If you have spun polyester row cover material, it does a great job too. After seeding, cut the material to fit the bed, and use small rocks to anchor. Best thing about the row covers is you can water through the row cover without splashing soil away from the tiny seeds. Plus, if you miss them sprouting for a day or two they will still get the light they need and not be crushed by the board.

Durgan · April 30, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by barkeater

If you have spun polyester row cover material, it does a great job too. After seeding, cut the material to fit the bed, and use small rocks to anchor. Best thing about the row covers is you can water through the row cover without splashing soil away from the tiny seeds. Plus, if you miss them sprouting for a day or two they will still get the light they need and not be crushed by the board.

Sorry, but fibre does not reduce the heat from a hot Sun, which is the chief bane of carrots not germinating.

Water dribbles under the board and adequate moisture is not an issue. Try both methods. I have. Board crushing the plants is not an issue with the cross pieces. Even flat on the bed if the board is removed immediately at the first sign of germination the damage is minimal.

dpurdy · April 30, 2013

Durgan,
I just happen to be planting carrots today in the garden. I'll be trying your method today. I've had some issues with carrots in the past but maybe this method will improve my results. Thanks for posting the pictures and the step-by-step process. I'll let you know how it works for me.
dpurdy

barkeater · April 30, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durgan

Sorry, but fibre does not reduce the heat from a hot Sun, which is the chief bane of carrots not germinating.

Water dribbles under the board and adequate moisture is not an issue. Try both methods. I have. Board crushing the plants is not an issue with the cross pieces. Even flat on the bed if the board is removed immediately at the first sign of germination the damage is minimal.

I should have mentioned I use the thickest row cover material made for frost protection, and since it is white it reflects any heat. The lightest fabric might not be suitable for the deep south and southwest.

b54red · April 30, 2013

I just put the carrot seed in a seed envelope or coin envelope with about 10 times as much old dried coffee grounds and shake them up well to mix the seeds evenly. I then crease the lip of the envelope and tap out the coffee grounds along with a few seeds along a very very shallow and narrow trench. I rarely have to do any thinning and the coffee grounds help hold the seed in place and keep them moist a bit longer. I then water them with a very gentle spray two or three times a day until I get a stand. I sometimes put a light sprinkling of DE down the row. It helps protect the seeds and it shows me when they need a bit of water as it gets lighter in color when it dries out. Never water heavily or til water pools or the seed will move with the water. If heavy rain is expected a strip of ground cover cloth or plastic over them will help while it rains; but keep it off the ground so the seeds won't be picked up when you remove it.

Bill

Durgan · May 12, 2013

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JWRRQ 12 May 2013 Germination
The protection board was moved aside. Germination took about 12 days and appears to be almost 100%.

April 27, 2013	#1
Durgan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Brantford, ON, Canada Posts: 1,341	Planting Carrot Seed- Board Method http://www.durgan.org/URL/?PHAIP 27 April 2013 Planting Carrot Two 12 foot rows of carrots were planted using the BOARD METHOD. The carrot selection was random from my supplier. The row was rototilled, raked smooth, and marked with a board. Each carrot seed was planted individually by laying on top of the ground so they don’t touch and gently pushed with the finger. This means thinning is not required and harvesting is simplified, since no carrots are intertwined. Carrots do not germinate if temperature is above 30C or if they dry out. The board keeps a relatively constant temperature, keeps the seed damp, and prevents seed movement if it rains.Watering is by running water on top of the board. Sufficient weeps under to wet the seeds.Cross pieces were placed under the board to lift it slightly so the emerging plants are not obstructed. The board is removed immediately after germination. Reminder most seeds do not require light to germinate. I tend to use the BOARD METHOD for most of my seed planting now.

April 30, 2013	#7
barkeater Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Kingdom, VT - Zone 3b Posts: 1,439	If you have spun polyester row cover material, it does a great job too. After seeding, cut the material to fit the bed, and use small rocks to anchor. Best thing about the row covers is you can water through the row cover without splashing soil away from the tiny seeds. Plus, if you miss them sprouting for a day or two they will still get the light they need and not be crushed by the board. __________________ barkeater

April 29, 2013	#3
Patihum Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Southeast Kansas Posts: 878	I'd read about this before but had never found anyone that had actually used this method. The details never mentioned to use the cross pieces to raise the board and I was wondering what would happen when the seed germinated with a board right on top of it. Something else I'm trying this year is using homemade seed tape using toilet paper. Supposedly it help keeps the seed moist. I know - kinda a crafty thing but it was cold and rainy and I was bored.

April 30, 2013	#5
buenaventura43 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Rockland,NY Posts: 10	What is the spacing and how wide is the board?

April 30, 2013	#9
dpurdy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Norwich, New York Posts: 255	Durgan, I just happen to be planting carrots today in the garden. I'll be trying your method today. I've had some issues with carrots in the past but maybe this method will improve my results. Thanks for posting the pictures and the step-by-step process. I'll let you know how it works for me. dpurdy

April 30, 2013	#11
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I just put the carrot seed in a seed envelope or coin envelope with about 10 times as much old dried coffee grounds and shake them up well to mix the seeds evenly. I then crease the lip of the envelope and tap out the coffee grounds along with a few seeds along a very very shallow and narrow trench. I rarely have to do any thinning and the coffee grounds help hold the seed in place and keep them moist a bit longer. I then water them with a very gentle spray two or three times a day until I get a stand. I sometimes put a light sprinkling of DE down the row. It helps protect the seeds and it shows me when they need a bit of water as it gets lighter in color when it dries out. Never water heavily or til water pools or the seed will move with the water. If heavy rain is expected a strip of ground cover cloth or plastic over them will help while it rains; but keep it off the ground so the seeds won't be picked up when you remove it. Bill

May 12, 2013	#12
Durgan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Brantford, ON, Canada Posts: 1,341	http://www.durgan.org/URL/?JWRRQ 12 May 2013 Germination The protection board was moved aside. Germination took about 12 days and appears to be almost 100%.