RE: Slow growth this year 2013? - Page 2

Master_Gardener · May 26, 2013

Hmmm. Last year was my first year using leaves in my garden. I put down about an 18+ inch layer of leaves (yes, I know) and added alfalfa on top as a nitrogen source. I may have over done it, but the worms love it. I was worried because it was so thick for a time, but as soon as the weather warmed up it crumbled to almost nothing. I also sprayed it with molasses to help feed any microbes. Microbes do not eat leaves but fungi does. I think microbes then eat the fungi or its byproducts.

Grass clippings I leave on the lawn. I have 4% OM in my lawn per my soil test. I'd like to get that up to 6% or better. I think I read that 1% OM can hold 16,000 gallons of water per acre foot. I tried harvesting rain water, but I'm now of the opinion that 'you can't save enough rain water' in containers in an urban environment to make a difference. The best place to hold thousands of gallons of water is in the soil and its there where and when needed.

I use my rain water mostly for making compost tea (AACT). I have a KISS 5 gal pro brewer and I'm thinking about building a 25 gal brewer. I just ordered an O2 meter for that purpose. Since I have been mulching my garden, my watering needs were greatly reduced using straw. With wood chips I'm hoping for even better water conservation and better fertility long term.

I have a no bare earth policy. I want "roots in the ground, all year round." I hear lots of talk about Organic Matter (OM), but few people make a distinction between that and Organic material (Om). The former is great stuff, the latter will become great stuff in the future but it isn't great stuff yet. OM especially includes roots. Roots are very important for us no-till guys.

Master_Gardener · May 26, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by bughunter99

... Don't worry about the mulch unless your plants are showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. (Yellow/green-->yellow) leaves at bottom of the plant is one of the first signs. If you see that, leave the mulch and just give the plants a hit of blood meal.

Stacy

The only sign of Chlorossis was in some radishes I planted early in the new bed I built. I gave them a hit of N, as you suggested, and they shaped right up. My other beds and plants seem to be doing fine in that department.

SIP Gro-Tubs · May 26, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Master_Gardener

I grow comfrey and stinging nettles to use as 'chop 'n drop'. Would that qualify as green much in your view? Other than chop 'n drop, how do you use green mulch?

Comfrey leaves are the best for a green mulch. The roots of comfrey grow deep for mineral's buried deep that most plants can't get to.

Had a comfrey plant that had been growing for over 5 years. We dug beside it to a depth of 8' and the taproot at that depth was still over 2" in diameter.

A stinging Bull Nettle has a taproot that can go just as deep and it also brings up a lot of deep minerals. Also the taproot looks like a giant carrot.

Terry

EarthGrownGreens · May 27, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Master_Gardener

I'm in central Indiana. This year all my plants, except for my fruit trees, seem to be growing slowly. I've made some changes to my garden by adding wood chips as much. No till here.

I know that wood chips can draw some N from the soil but I thought it only affected the top 2 mm or so? OTOH, it could be weather related or even my desire to see big plants. Everything seems to be in slow motion this year. I also have more pests this year than ever before.

How are your plants doing?

I document my plant growth from year to year and things are growing very slowly this season. I have commitments for the 15 of June which I would normally have no problem meeting but this season is going to be tough. I agree but I'm thinking the ground is warming at a slower pace than past years and maybe the late snow just set it back some. I also noticed some tadpoles were dead in the farm pond a week or two ago which I haven't seen before and I am chemical free so it wasn't run off. I'm guessing the water temperature dropped a good bit.

Master_Gardener · May 27, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIP Gro-Tubs

Comfrey leaves are the best for a green mulch. The roots of comfrey grow deep for mineral's buried deep that most plants can't get to.

Had a comfrey plant that had been growing for over 5 years. We dug beside it to a depth of 8' and the taproot at that depth was still over 2" in diameter.

A stinging Bull Nettle has a taproot that can go just as deep and it also brings up a lot of deep minerals. Also the taproot looks like a giant carrot.

Terry

Terry:

Thank you for your post. I'm sure it was a lot of work to dig that deep. I had read about Comfrey and Nettle for use as a nutrient accumulator. I knew that the roots grew deep but it's even better to get this confirmed first hand.

Thanks again

SIP Gro-Tubs · May 28, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Master_Gardener

Terry:

Thank you for your post. I'm sure it was a lot of work to dig that deep. I had read about Comfrey and Nettle for use as a nutrient accumulator. I knew that the roots grew deep but it's even better to get this confirmed first hand.

Thanks again

The biggest reason for digging that deep was for proagation of a contract for 5,000 1/2 gl pots, you will need a lot of roots.

The only reason we stopped digging is dug into a Cut ant Queens chamber. You don't want to mess with her workers and soilders.

Terry

Lcottomsvcs · May 28, 2013

We live in the Terre Haute area. I feel that the cool, wet weather is truly slowing down the growth of the garden plants. Even the farmers in my area are behind getting the inevitable corn crop planted. The crops like asparagus that come up each year are behind, according to my notes. I am nearly three weeks behind in my planting schedule compared to last year due to the rains, although last year we had early planting followed by drought. That's what I love about Indiana, the variable weather lol.

I will not complain about the rain, however, after last year's ordeal with the drought.

:

emcd124 · May 28, 2013

I'm up in South Bend and its been real slow growing this season...even the peas which should love the cool weather are behind and dont get me started on the tomatoes. But I'm no master gardener. Still nice to meet another gardening hoosier.

Redbaron · May 29, 2013

I am at least month behind here in OK. But like Lcottomsvcs, I refuse to complain about the rain. It is far superior to no rain!

It is making me anxious about getting my corn planted though. At least my peppers and tomatoes are in the ground!

They may be behind, battered by frosts, ice storms, hail, floods and high winds, they are still alive though! That means there is hope still for most of them! I even have a few banana peppers forming! Woo Hoo It's the hot ones too!

The ones we call "hunky peppers"! One of my favorites!

nnjjohn · May 29, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Master_Gardener

I'm in central Indiana. This year all my plants, except for my fruit trees, seem to be growing slowly. I've made some changes to my garden by adding wood chips as much. No till here.

I know that wood chips can draw some N from the soil but I thought it only affected the top 2 mm or so? OTOH, it could be weather related or even my desire to see big plants. Everything seems to be in slow motion this year. I also have more pests this year than ever before.

How are your plants doing?

I had poor luck using too much lime /wood ash/ and wood chips used in the horse stable where I thought I was using the best stable horse manure .. I realize now after becoming a member and reading.. taking good advice and getting a lab soil test,,that I overdosed my beds and never had it easy growing tomatoes.. although I did get harvests , it was nothing like it could have been should I have known more about my high PH level .. So far , I followed instruction from my local Rutger's institute soil tests..and those here who have helped me too. My plants are looking strong and getting big fast! At least so far so good. I know now the importance of checking optimum soil PH

GnomeGrown · May 29, 2013

REDBARON<

Your tomatoes have definitely taken the hits this year.
Good luck.

Steve Magruder · June 5, 2013

I'm in Louisville, and our weather, even though slightly cooler than average, seems to be much closer to a "sweet spot" temperature-wise, especially compared to last year's brutally warm/hot temps. Even the long-range forecast for June looks great for the tomatoes. My tomato plants are looking rather lush so far. Many of them have blossoms and I'm likely within a week of seeing some growing fruit.

Meanwhile, my peppers are somewhat stagnant, but I think they are considerably more finicky and would prefer warmer soil.

By the way, I'm growing mostly organic for the first time this year. The only exception is I'm using Daconil. But the plants look great so far.

May 26, 2013	#16
Master_Gardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: Central Indiana 6a/41 Posts: 131	Hmmm. Last year was my first year using leaves in my garden. I put down about an 18+ inch layer of leaves (yes, I know) and added alfalfa on top as a nitrogen source. I may have over done it, but the worms love it. I was worried because it was so thick for a time, but as soon as the weather warmed up it crumbled to almost nothing. I also sprayed it with molasses to help feed any microbes. Microbes do not eat leaves but fungi does. I think microbes then eat the fungi or its byproducts. Grass clippings I leave on the lawn. I have 4% OM in my lawn per my soil test. I'd like to get that up to 6% or better. I think I read that 1% OM can hold 16,000 gallons of water per acre foot. I tried harvesting rain water, but I'm now of the opinion that 'you can't save enough rain water' in containers in an urban environment to make a difference. The best place to hold thousands of gallons of water is in the soil and its there where and when needed. I use my rain water mostly for making compost tea (AACT). I have a KISS 5 gal pro brewer and I'm thinking about building a 25 gal brewer. I just ordered an O2 meter for that purpose. Since I have been mulching my garden, my watering needs were greatly reduced using straw. With wood chips I'm hoping for even better water conservation and better fertility long term. I have a no bare earth policy. I want "roots in the ground, all year round." I hear lots of talk about Organic Matter (OM), but few people make a distinction between that and Organic material (Om). The former is great stuff, the latter will become great stuff in the future but it isn't great stuff yet. OM especially includes roots. Roots are very important for us no-till guys. __________________ Russel USDA: Zone 6a, Sunset Zone 41 - 15 miles NW of Indianapolis, IN I had a problem with slugs. I tried using beer but it didn't work, until I gave it to the slugs.

May 28, 2013	#22
Lcottomsvcs Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Southern Indiana Posts: 123	Slow Growth Here in Southern Indiana We live in the Terre Haute area. I feel that the cool, wet weather is truly slowing down the growth of the garden plants. Even the farmers in my area are behind getting the inevitable corn crop planted. The crops like asparagus that come up each year are behind, according to my notes. I am nearly three weeks behind in my planting schedule compared to last year due to the rains, although last year we had early planting followed by drought. That's what I love about Indiana, the variable weather lol. I will not complain about the rain, however, after last year's ordeal with the drought.: __________________ Gardening is not a rational act. Margaret Atwood

May 29, 2013	#24
Redbaron Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4,488	I am at least month behind here in OK. But like Lcottomsvcs, I refuse to complain about the rain. It is far superior to no rain! It is making me anxious about getting my corn planted though. At least my peppers and tomatoes are in the ground! They may be behind, battered by frosts, ice storms, hail, floods and high winds, they are still alive though! That means there is hope still for most of them! I even have a few banana peppers forming! Woo Hoo It's the hot ones too! The ones we call "hunky peppers"! One of my favorites! __________________ Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture

May 29, 2013	#26
GnomeGrown Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: South Carolina Posts: 216	REDBARON< Your tomatoes have definitely taken the hits this year. Good luck. __________________ "Your Spirit is the true shield" --The Art of Peace.

May 28, 2013	#23
emcd124 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: South Bend, IN Posts: 104	I'm up in South Bend and its been real slow growing this season...even the peas which should love the cool weather are behind and dont get me started on the tomatoes. But I'm no master gardener. Still nice to meet another gardening hoosier.

June 5, 2013	#27
Steve Magruder Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: Louisville, Kentucky (Zone 6B) Posts: 89	I'm in Louisville, and our weather, even though slightly cooler than average, seems to be much closer to a "sweet spot" temperature-wise, especially compared to last year's brutally warm/hot temps. Even the long-range forecast for June looks great for the tomatoes. My tomato plants are looking rather lush so far. Many of them have blossoms and I'm likely within a week of seeing some growing fruit. Meanwhile, my peppers are somewhat stagnant, but I think they are considerably more finicky and would prefer warmer soil. By the way, I'm growing mostly organic for the first time this year. The only exception is I'm using Daconil. But the plants look great so far.