Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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July 2, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 352
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Tomato Russet Mite
They're back. Despite many efforts to avoid their return, I have seen some damage from the dreaded Tomato Russet Mite. Spraying with Take Down every other week seems to have slowed them down. Last year I lost every plant to this vermin, but I was defenseless because a broken leg prevented me from spraying.
There are only a couple of varieties that seem particularly affected, CP and JDs Special C Tex. All potato leaf varieties seem immune for some reason. Perhaps because it is easier to get good spray coverage on potato leaf plants? Anyway, I have to get a handle on this because the damage can be quick when the weather heats up. Any advice you might have would be appreciated. I might try wetable sulpher. |
July 2, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Predatory mites
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
July 2, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,255
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July 2, 2013 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 352
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Quote:
http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/...e/a_lycope.htm BTW, thanks for the Sibirskiy Skorospelyi you sent me when I purchased Stupice and a few other seeds from you this spring. Sibirskiy Skorospelyi is a couple weeks later than Stupice but size is much larger and flavor better IMHO. Unfortunately, the mites are after one of the Sibirskiy Skorospelyi plants as well. There are a few strategies you can take against Tomato Russet Mite: 1. Remove plants from the sunshade family. Where I am in the back country, this included jimsom weed. 2. Lay down straw both in the planted area and along pathways. The mites will blow with the wind or be kicked up as you walk by, so you don't want dry dirt in a pathway. 3. Remove the bottom 12 inches of leaves. 4. I hate to use any spray, but Take Down is canola oil and pyritherins, so not as bad as some petrochemicals, which I will never use. I did all of the above and still have mites, but not as bad a last year when 150 plants were wiped out over a period of about one month. |
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July 2, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Homeopronematus anconai is proven very effective and several Seiulus sp also eat russet mites. There are certainly others. I will get on google and see what is available commercially. I found a place last year but unfortunately I never bookmarked it.
__________________
Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
July 2, 2013 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
Ok I found them. It is a Belgium company and they do have predatory russet mite control and a US subsidiary. I called them and they do have stock both large and small. Amblyseius andersoni
__________________
Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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July 2, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,255
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Scott(Redbaron), thanks much, I'm thinking that may be the only way to go for me if I want to have a longer season. I am too lazy to spray sulfur (or anything else) on the underside of 700 sprawling tomato plants - I think I should leave mite control to the 'expert' killers you linked to.
Scott(VC_Scott) thanks for the link. I'm just over the hill from you in Bonsall and am also seeing the start of mite season (although mine are mostly two-spotted mites). When I started raising tomatoes I decided to not spray any of the systemic commercial acaricides I have available. Also, for me, it is too much work/time to spray sulfur (or any of the organic controls, mostly oils) because they all require complete leaf coverage. However, if you don't have too many plants you should try sulfur, it has been very effective the times I've used it. (note the precautions against using it within 2-4 weeks of any oil) I'm glad Sibirskiy Skorospelyi did well on that side of the hill. Steve |
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