Data for my book - how you can help! and - about my book!

[Tormato]

I start seeds in 3 ounce white plastic cups. I've learned that if I'm going to drop something it's going to be a single cup, not a 72 cell tray.

I transplant into 8 ounce yogurt cups. These have two holes drilled into the bottom edge opposite each other. I've used a 3/16" diameter hole in the past, but now use a 5/32" hole.

A 1 1/2" section of an industrial grade cotton mop head is inserted half-way into each hole. These serve as wicks. This cup is then placed inside another cup (without holes). There is about a 1/4" space inside of the second cup, which gets filled with water when needed. Since my seedling go outside (during the day) right after indoor germination, this method is the best I've found for what can be harsh outdoor conditions.

Gary

[SharonRossy]

Hi there. I'm in Montreal, zone 5b. I started seeds March 28th, 2 seeds per pot.
Generally, we plant around the end of May, sometimes first week of June, because the risk of frost is always a challenge here. I place them in a well lit room, southern exposure, and this year I'm using a light because its been so dreary.
April 8th I started another batch as germination was only 50 %.
April 18th, started transplanting into 4" pots.
Cherries usually start by end of July. Although last year was so hot and humid that the tomatoes went into survival mode and either didn't produce fruit or didn't ripen.

[salix]

Hello Craig, hope this information is not too late for you to use. Zone 3 up here in central B. C. (? your zone 2?). Like Keith in U.P. and a few others, can get frost in any and every month.

Easy to remember my routine - sow at beginning of April using both dense planting and individual type propagator, depending on how many seedlings of each variety is desired. Inside of course, and pot up when needed into 4" pots. Like Remy's, they get "petted" twice a day for sturdy stems. After potting on, they get a couple of days more of basement warmth/light, then when they have settled in nicely they are sent out to the unheated garage, under more grow lights of course.

Hardening off is dependent on weather of course, but most days they can go out for awhile starting at the beginning of May.

Plant out is also weather dependent, but I aim for the beginning of June.

Usually start harvesting mid August. Last of the harvest can be anywhere from late August to mid-October, depending on the really bad killer frost. Heavy Reemay or Frost Blanket can help to ward off a mild frost, and we frequently get those followed by weeks of good weather.

[Sodak]

Hi Craig.
Extreme SE tip of South Dakota here in "Siouxland".
The water teepee plants start about St. Patricks in Parks biodome sponge things - the jumbo ones, 2 seeds per sponge (but next year will use your dense planting technique).
Main crop starts about April 15.
Water walls out last weekend of april in containers.
Rest out about May 15 or so,some in containers and some in raised beds.

I eagerly await the book, too.
Dick

[Obi-wan]

Panama city, fl, zone 8
Seedlings started in Jan without grow lights
Transplanted to pots Feb. put outside 1 March, set in garden 15 March

[rflasck]

Northern California USDA zone 9b.
Started 7 varieties from seed Jan 20th.
Put under growlight as soon as first seedling sprouted. 1" from top of seedling to lamp tube.
Replanted to 3" cups mid February. Plants were anout 4" tall.
Applied mild fertilizer.
Hardened them off second week of March.
Carefully monitored weather forecast and transplanted outside in 18 gal containers March 20th.
This was a bit of a risk, but I was prepared to throw a tarp over them if the temp dipped below 37 F. Gotta beware of radiative cooling!
Plants were about 1 foot tall when transplanted outside. During transplant, about lower 1/3 of stem was planted below the surface.

Plants are growing like crazy. I already have 11 tomatoes on the Stupice, a few on the Camp Joy and even one on the Brandywine OTV!

Admittedly, I started early to get a jump on the growing season. There was a bit of a risk, but it was mitigated by carefully watching the weather and being ready with tarps (which I never had to use).

Dick in Cal

[OtterJon]

Michigan here,
Up here most people get their transplants out by around June 8th or thereabouts...I have a diff approch not usually covered by books. I either cut healthy plants to two to four leaves in sept, and keep them under mild cmh bulbs over winter, or start mine from seed indoors in January, and then prune them back and keep repotting until last frost, This year, I ended up in the ground around June first, and put up poly sidewalls to protect them at night...Currently am at around 5ft and tons of tomatoes...looking forward to your book NC!

Jon Gosling

[newatthiskat]

Well I will add my 2cents worth. I am in zone 8a East Texas. I usually aim for putting my first round of plants out around March 15th. I have to growing periods but usually just try to baby most my plants though the hottest part of the summer. They usually take off as the heat subsides. I had my best bumper crop after unstaking the plants due to hurricane Ike and thinking they were dead and then looked out and Pineapple and Italian tomato tree were going crazy producing several weeks later. Had thanksgiving tomatoes that year.
I usually start the plants about the last week of December and bring in and out as the weather allows

[Cincinnati]

In LA - Lower Alabama, zone 9a

For Spring:

Start seeds in mid-December, aiming for a transplant into 18 oz Solo cups after the two primary leaves separate,

Plant out into Earthboxes at End of January or early February

Harvest in early April through end of May depending on night time temperatures.

For Fall:

Start seeds in mid-July, aiming for a transplant into 18 oz Solo cups after the two primary leaves separate,

Plant out into Earthboxes during 1st week of September

Harvest in early November through mid-December depending on night time temperatures. A friend has harvested into January using bubble wrap covers and lights for warming.