New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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December 31, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SeTx
Posts: 881
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Dense Planting - when to start
I'm having a bit of trouble accessing the Dense Planting thread, and I was wondering, how early should I start my seedlings?
I just watched all the videos and it seemed like the seedlings were started around the middle of February and transplanted around two to three weeks later into individual pots, then put outside in a sunny spot? But how early is the whole process started, about six weeks before they go in ground? Our plant-out date is March 1st, so I'm thinking mid-January is when to start? Any help would be wonderful, I'm anxious to get started! |
December 31, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southeast Kansas
Posts: 878
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Usually start 6 - 8 weeks before last expected frost date here. With you being in Texas I'd say 6 - 8 weeks before when the nighttime temp stays above 60. Transplant into individual cups when there's at least two true leaves. Be careful setting the seedlings in direct sun - they'll get burned. Better to put them in a shady spot to start with and then gradually give them more sun each day. Just remember tomatoes don't like to be cold - they'll just sit there and shiver.
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December 31, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SeTx
Posts: 881
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Thank you!!!
It's about the same as if I were starting them inside and carrying them through to transplant under lights, except just putting them outside after potting up? I can definitely bring them in if it gets really cold but my spouse is not really a plant person. I planned on following the method faithfully by putting them on my driveway, which is on the south side of the house and a bit warmer than the rest of the area. I don't think nighttime temps will be over 60 consistently until the end of March or so, but maybe I'll do two batches, one soon-ish and one later. I'm itching to start some seeds! |
December 31, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: san antonio, texas
Posts: 174
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Couldn't stand it and had to drop some seed today. Last frost date is March 15th but last year I put em in the ground end of February and I won the bet against nature. My intention is a colder than nl winter and then early spring. Lol.
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December 31, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SeTx
Posts: 881
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The weather has been so weird (up and down) this year, but I think maybe I just didn't notice before! I'm also hoping we have another nice spring - our lfd is March 1st and that worked well last year. Just wish I had the ability to start indoors better this year.
I'm going to start some tomorrow, bought some paper cups to start in! |
January 1, 2014 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: texas
Posts: 1,451
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I am starting mine now. Have 9 varieties in soil and working from there. My goal is in ground March 16th. I will have to cover at least once. I have not lost a plant yet. I do dense planting and then in near a window until I can put outside. I usually take out in day and bring in at night on nights that are less than 40. I start on covered back porch and as they get bigger and it gets warmer in day time I then put them out in a shady spot then on to full sunlight
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January 1, 2014 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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I've watched all of the videos about dense planting (and read every page from the original thread!) Seriously amazing!
One thing that is still not quite clear to me is how the watering is done. Is all the watering done with a spray bottle? say until they are moved to their 4-inch homes? |
January 1, 2014 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SeTx
Posts: 881
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I think -- and I'm sure someone who knows more than I do will answer -- that Craig says in the video that the soil gets soaked thoroughly originally, and then after planting they're spritzed with the bottle, and that's all the watering they need until they're potted up into the 4" pots.
Which is so totally foreign to me (I'm a chronic overwaterer) but you can't argue with the results. |
January 11, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kansas CIty
Posts: 560
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You definitely have to water them many times before they are potted up. I water from the bottom by using trays without holes and filling it partially and allowing the water to soak up into the soil.
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Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a |
January 12, 2014 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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I use a hand sprayer and spritz them every two-three days - when the tray is covered, you don't lose a lot of water. Once you uncover it to accommodate the early sprouters, you have to spritz the unsprouted cells at least every day.
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January 12, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 425
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I'm in Zone 8a. North East Texas (an hour from Dallas).
I talked to a master gardener in my area, and he starts his transplants from Christmas through about mid January. He does have a greenhouse. I got a cheapy Big Lots shelf greenhouse that I've rigged up with shop lights in my garage room. Right now, my pots on are heating pads with domes. When they sprout, I'm taking the domes off and under the lights they go... I've got my fingers crossed! |
January 12, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 425
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Try this site:
http://www.settfest.com/2009/02/se-t...ing-calendars/ This helps me. I hope it helps you. |
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