Soil building for nutrient density - Page 9

Got Worms? · June 27, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redbaron

But worse is that he is Vegan. So his ethics force him to fight that war without a gun. So he could just give up gardening. Or he could sell the house and move. or....... find some way to control the rodent population. Most people are not able to instantly create wolf/coyote/bear habitat in their back yards. So that leaves domestic dog breeds specializing in rodent control, or possibly a fence? All I can say about the fence is, better be a really good fence or the woodchucks will laugh at it.

I had a new thought since woodchuck pie is off the table.

You might be able to build reinforced concrete 4 feet high raised beds..... as long as the footer is deep enough a foundation..preferably down to bedrock.

I didn't know we had anyone from the Vegan system on this planet.

For Glenn; a good fence that will keep the 'chucks out (and from laughing) will have a heavy gauge 36" wide galvanized "hardware cloth" covering the bottom 12" of the fence and extending 6" below grade before it is folded 90* to parallel the ground for the last 18" in an outward direction.

We are getting farther and farther away from the original subject. I must remedy this: Nutrient density, Nutrient density, Nutrient density, Azomite, Kelp, rock dust, yeast, and withhold watering. Beer, fish emulsion, molasses, compost, brix, trace elements, etc. etc. etc. Okay, I feel better now.
Charlie

habitat_gardener · June 27, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got Worms?

I didn't know we had anyone from the Vegan system on this planet.

...

Vegans are everywhere!(me too.)

COMPOSTER · June 30, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got Worms?

I didn't know we had anyone from the Vegan system on this planet.

For Glenn; a good fence that will keep the 'chucks out (and from laughing) will have a heavy gauge 36" wide galvanized "hardware cloth" covering the bottom 12" of the fence and extending 6" below grade before it is folded 90* to parallel the ground for the last 18" in an outward direction.

We are getting farther and farther away from the original subject. I must remedy this: Nutrient density, Nutrient density, Nutrient density, Azomite, Kelp, rock dust, yeast, and withhold watering. Beer, fish emulsion, molasses, compost, brix, trace elements, etc. etc. etc. Okay, I feel better now.
Charlie

Charlie, thanks for all your input. Especially how to construct the fence, letting me know whose garden they think it is and most of all that I am at war with these destructive rodents. Think I read about Pollans's experience with Woodchuck's in "Second Nature."

So, lets get back on the topic of nutrient density. I have spent most of my time learning about the potential benefits of using compost, manure, rock dust, kelp and making sure there is enough calcium available. I do not know about the benefits of yeast and withholding water. Any information or resources you (or anyone else) could point me to would be much appreciated and definately get this thread back on topic. Gotta make sure all of us vegetable consumers (vegan or not) are getting the biggest nutritional bang for our buck!

Glenn

beeman · June 30, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by COMPOSTER

So, lets get back on the topic of nutrient density. I have spent most of my time learning about the potential benefits of using compost, manure, rock dust, kelp and making sure there is enough calcium available. I do not know about the benefits of yeast and withholding water. Any information or resources you (or anyone else) could point me to would be much appreciated and definately get this thread back on topic. Gotta make sure all of us vegetable consumers (vegan or not) are getting the biggest nutritional bang for our buck!Glenn

Talking about nutrients in food, vegetables in particular. You might be interested in this.
We grow almost all of our own veg, and last year I had a soil test done, just for interest. It came back "shortage of Magnesium" the same day DW came back from her monthly visit to the Homoeopath and guess what, they found a "shortage of Magnesium".
Just goes to show. You think you're doing it right regards chemicals, but find there are still downfalls to being self sufficient.

COMPOSTER · July 1, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by beeman

Talking about nutrients in food, vegetables in particular. You might be interested in this.
We grow almost all of our own veg, and last year I had a soil test done, just for interest. It came back "shortage of Magnesium" the same day DW came back from her monthly visit to the Homoeopath and guess what, they found a "shortage of Magnesium".
Just goes to show. You think you're doing it right regards chemicals, but find there are still downfalls to being self sufficient.

I agree there are downfalls. I also think if you only came up with 1 element out of balance you must be doing a lot of the right things. I firmly believe that you have a much better chance at getting close to optimal nutrition from growing your own nutrient dense produce than you will ever get purchasing from industrial agriculture or even some decent farmers. At least now you can work to increase the magnesium in your soil.

Glenn

Redbaron · July 1, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by beeman

Talking about nutrients in food, vegetables in particular. You might be interested in this.
We grow almost all of our own veg, and last year I had a soil test done, just for interest. It came back "shortage of Magnesium" the same day DW came back from her monthly visit to the Homoeopath and guess what, they found a "shortage of Magnesium".
Just goes to show. You think you're doing it right regards chemicals, but find there are still downfalls to being self sufficient.

beets have a long tap root and tend to pull up magnesium from deep in the soil and concentrate it.

creister · July 2, 2014

If you can plant a fall cover crop, I have read that daikon radish is a good one to use because of its very long tap root that helps break up hardpan and bring nutrients up to the soil above the hardpan.

I think I also read that buckwheat does much of the same.

Redbaron · July 3, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by creister

If you can plant a fall cover crop, I have read that daikon radish is a good one to use because of its very long tap root that helps break up hardpan and bring nutrients up to the soil above the hardpan.

I think I also read that buckwheat does much of the same.

And both together do even more.

yardn_gardn · July 13, 2014

I add Epsom salts and borax. The Twenty Mule Team seems to really help the carrots not have the fine, hairy roots that carrots get from not having enough boran. I figure if the carrots are showing symptoms, my tomatoes will benefit from the addition of boron as well. Epsom salts contain magnesium sulfate.

beeman · July 14, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by yardn_gardn

I add Epsom salts and borax. The Twenty Mule Team seems to really help the carrots not have the fine, hairy roots that carrots get from not having enough boran. I figure if the carrots are showing symptoms, my tomatoes will benefit from the addition of boron as well. Epsom salts contain magnesium sulfate.

While I agree regarding the Epsom salts, the borax bothers me. Too much boron will create all sorts of problems.
I was always told that too much nitrogen is the cause of hairy rooted carrots.

yardn_gardn · July 20, 2014

Oops! Thank you for the correction. I'll be careful with the boron too.

July 20, 2014	#131
yardn_gardn Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Central Idaho at 3200 elev. in zone 5b, maybe 100 frost free days Posts: 77	Oops! Thank you for the correction. I'll be careful with the boron too. __________________ Happy garden trails, Dawn

July 2, 2014	#127
creister Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Abilene, TX zone 7 Posts: 1,478	If you can plant a fall cover crop, I have read that daikon radish is a good one to use because of its very long tap root that helps break up hardpan and bring nutrients up to the soil above the hardpan. I think I also read that buckwheat does much of the same.

July 13, 2014	#129
yardn_gardn Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Central Idaho at 3200 elev. in zone 5b, maybe 100 frost free days Posts: 77	I add Epsom salts and borax. The Twenty Mule Team seems to really help the carrots not have the fine, hairy roots that carrots get from not having enough boran. I figure if the carrots are showing symptoms, my tomatoes will benefit from the addition of boron as well. Epsom salts contain magnesium sulfate.