Raised Bed Tomatoes

[Ed of Somis]

I am going to form out a 12" high single-row raised bed for my 2015 tomatoes. I have a couple of questions for you guys: 1. How wide should I make that single row bed? (I was thinking 18 or 24 inches) 2. What are good amendments to mix with either topsoil or my clay soil? thanks

[b54red]

Originally Posted by Ed of Somis

I am going to form out a 12" high single-row raised bed for my 2015 tomatoes. I have a couple of questions for you guys: 1. How wide should I make that single row bed? (I was thinking 18 or 24 inches) 2. What are good amendments to mix with either topsoil or my clay soil? thanks

As someone who has been using raised beds for over 30 years I would recommend you go with the 24 inches for a couple of reasons unless space is an issue. The wider bed will maintain moisture better than a narrower bed. The wider bed will also lessen the chance of the vines sticking outside of the bed if planted down the center. The wider bed will be much better for growing some winter crops like broccoli, lettuce, cabbage, and etc. It will also be better for bell peppers if you decide to grow a few.

If you have clay soil try not to get any in the beds because it will cause them to pack worse. Use as much cheap compost as you can get your hands on. Use well composted horse and cow manure along with composted bark fines or composted wheat straw. If you can get hold of cotton gin waste or peanut hulls they are terrific for building up the soil and also adding nutrients. If you can get fresh mushroom compost it is also great as a soil additive (not that bagged stuff they sell at the big box stores). Frequently nurseries will sell bulk potting mixes which could be good to use also if you have a pickup truck or trailer for hauling it.

Bill

[Ed of Somis]

B...thanks for the nice reply. You made some good points!

[jmsieglaff]

Hi Ed,

Here are my 2 cents. I grow my tomatoes in raised beds that are 4' wide. The beds are constructed of 8"x16"x8" cinder blocks--so they are about 8" deep. Along the north edge of the beds I grow vining things like cucumbers. I grow 2 'rows' of tomatoes spaced ~2' apart in the beds. I can reach all the tomatoes from all sides of the beds. This setup works for me and you adjust the spacing along the long dimension of the bed to whatever you're comfortable with. I use these beds for other garden crops as well.

I agree with Bill about going with at least 2' wide beds. I have a smaller bed by my deck that is 2' wide that I've grown tomatoes in the past and they do just fine, but I could see a 12" bed getting too small.

I don't grow a ton of tomato plants, so I'm able to mulch my tomatoes with ~4" deep straw--which helps with moisture, weeds, and disease.

Hope this is helpful.

Justin

[Ed of Somis]

thanks J...I like that you do height planting on the north side. I take advantage of the sun's angle when possible, also. I have 6" square wire supported by T posts for support. So, my "line" of T posts are made for single rows. I do container planting too....all because of my dense clay soil.

[drew51]

I have raised beds too. I agree with the additives b64red suggested. What i use. I recycle potting soil into them. The organic stuff decomposes so it is a yearly thing. I don't grow many winter crops as here, the last 2 years it got cold on me and harvest was sparse. So I fill with some yard and kitchen waste, put cardboard over it, add compost, and wait till spring. The cardboard kills any weed seeds from the year before. Kinda a form of lasagna gardening. Doing it for three years now. Working great!

[ScottinAtlanta]

Bill is right about top soil with clay in it. I filled my five beds with "good" topsoil in my first year, and the second year, found that all five beds had turned into enormous red bricks, so hard I had to use a pick to break the soil up.

I then emptied the beds of all this stuff, and turned to Bill's recommendation - mulched leaves and horse manure, and that worked great.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta

Bill is right about top soil with clay in it. I filled my five beds with "good" topsoil in my first year, and the second year, found that all five beds had turned into enormous red bricks, so hard I had to use a pick to break the soil up.

I then emptied the beds of all this stuff, and turned to Bill's recommendation - mulched leaves and horse manure, and that worked great.

Worse mistake I ever made was tilling some of my clay topsoil into the mix when I made my original beds. It took over twenty years of constantly adding organic mater to get the soil to a good texture.

Bill

[Ed of Somis]

I prefer to learn from others' mistakes....thus, I will not be using any of my clay soil in the raised bed. I will try to dig down a foot or so below grade and amend...so my bed will drain and accept root growth.

[drew51]

Once you dig out mix up the bottom layer with new soil so you don't have an abrupt change in soil. Often this stops water in it's tracks, this way change is gradual.

[ScottinAtlanta]

I didn't mix the bottom layer, but I did drill a few holes in the boards right at soil level to facilitate drainage of any water standing in the box. However, I am not sure that is needed. My beds use 2 by 12s as sideboards, hence the soil is 12 inches deep. I notice at year's end that my tomato and pepper roots only take in the top 2 inches - no deeper. Eggplants are a little deeper. But none of the roots go down to where conditions might be more wet. Hence, I don't worry at all about drainage or water collection.

[AlittleSalt]

I have two raised beds that are made out of 2x12s. The beds are 12' x 36". I agree with not using clay and in using lots of organic matter. Oak leaves dug in work well in my beds.

[Ed of Somis]

some great info from you guys...thanks. As usual...the more work you put into a project, the more return you will get. I will supplement with container growing too...which I have dialed-in the last few years.