Gone Baby Gone! :(

gssgarden · May 22, 2015

My mystery Green and Grubs Mystery Green, diagonal from each other effected less than TWO days ago.

Leaves are drying up and crunchy.

No other plants show any signs.

Thoughts?

Greg

AlittleSalt · May 22, 2015

The soil doesn't look too wet like ours. We lost a Japanese Black Trifile plant that looked a lot like the pictures above. Not crunchy, but saggy and dead. I chalked ours up to being too wet. It was the only plant that did that in a garden of 65 tomato plants + volunteers.

Dry and crunchy happened last year but it was 105F a lot out.

KarenO · May 23, 2015

Grey mold I believe. If you plan to try and save them, remove and bag affected foliage, use fungicide after applying clean mulch beneath. You may be able to control it. Be vigilant checking your other plants, avoid wetting foliage.
Other option, remove both infected plants and carefully monitor the others
Preventive spray with copper may be of benefit
Best wishes
KarenO

Tracydr · May 23, 2015

I wonder if it's some kind of wilt? The way half the plant seems effected and the other half still looks okay.

b54red · May 23, 2015

That is gray mold and quite advanced also. Your only hope is to spray with the diluted bleach spray and then repeat the treatment in a day or two and remove the leaves that will die after the treatment takes affect. Then use a fungicide. A fungicide now will not stop gray mold. Black tomatoes and GWR tomatoes are the most susceptible to gray mold but I would spray any nearby tomatoes also to ensure it hasn't started on them.

Bill

gssgarden · May 23, 2015

Ratio of bleach per gallon of water??

Already used fungicide on it.

Greg

b54red · May 24, 2015

Read this thread. Make sure to spray late in the day preferably after the sun is down.
Good luck and I hope it isn't too late for the plants. It is best to start the bleach spray immediately upon seeing a problem like gray mold and before it gets widespread on a plant.

http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...t=bleach+spray

Bill

ginger2778 · May 24, 2015

Greg, just my $.02- I have had grey mold almost every year, and my liquid copper fungicide worked very well on it. Before spraying, I removed and bagged all the infected leaves I could find. Then sprayed very thoroughly on the tops, bottoms of all leaves, and all stems right down to the soil line. Note, I used 1/2 of the weakest strength on the Southern Ag brand label, mixed with a tiny bit of organic dish soap as a spreader, which I put in at the end so as not to get too much suds. Works perfectly.

In my hands the bleach spray wasn't good, maybe I mixed it too strong, but I devastated some of my plants. In B54reds hands it works really well.

May 22, 2015	#2
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	The soil doesn't look too wet like ours. We lost a Japanese Black Trifile plant that looked a lot like the pictures above. Not crunchy, but saggy and dead. I chalked ours up to being too wet. It was the only plant that did that in a garden of 65 tomato plants + volunteers. Dry and crunchy happened last year but it was 105F a lot out.

May 23, 2015	#3
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,932	Grey mold I believe. If you plan to try and save them, remove and bag affected foliage, use fungicide after applying clean mulch beneath. You may be able to control it. Be vigilant checking your other plants, avoid wetting foliage. Other option, remove both infected plants and carefully monitor the others Preventive spray with copper may be of benefit Best wishes KarenO

May 23, 2015	#4
Tracydr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7 Posts: 3,207	I wonder if it's some kind of wilt? The way half the plant seems effected and the other half still looks okay.

May 23, 2015	#5
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	That is gray mold and quite advanced also. Your only hope is to spray with the diluted bleach spray and then repeat the treatment in a day or two and remove the leaves that will die after the treatment takes affect. Then use a fungicide. A fungicide now will not stop gray mold. Black tomatoes and GWR tomatoes are the most susceptible to gray mold but I would spray any nearby tomatoes also to ensure it hasn't started on them. Bill

May 23, 2015	#6
gssgarden Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,827	Ratio of bleach per gallon of water?? Already used fungicide on it. Greg

May 24, 2015	#7
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Read this thread. Make sure to spray late in the day preferably after the sun is down. Good luck and I hope it isn't too late for the plants. It is best to start the bleach spray immediately upon seeing a problem like gray mold and before it gets widespread on a plant. http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...t=bleach+spray Bill

May 24, 2015	#8
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	Greg, just my $.02- I have had grey mold almost every year, and my liquid copper fungicide worked very well on it. Before spraying, I removed and bagged all the infected leaves I could find. Then sprayed very thoroughly on the tops, bottoms of all leaves, and all stems right down to the soil line. Note, I used 1/2 of the weakest strength on the Southern Ag brand label, mixed with a tiny bit of organic dish soap as a spreader, which I put in at the end so as not to get too much suds. Works perfectly. In my hands the bleach spray wasn't good, maybe I mixed it too strong, but I devastated some of my plants. In B54reds hands it works really well.