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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old August 12, 2015   #1
encore
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Default purple leaves

what would cause the new leaves and the ones at the top of the plants to start turning purple? the new leaves are all purple, and the next sets down the veins are. mostly on the cherry type. all plants are over 4 feet tall , cherry plants over 6 feet. all have fruit. the cherry tomatoes are being picked the rest are green yet. tom
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Old August 12, 2015   #2
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A picture helps to nail it down. All of the new leaf or just the veins? Topside, underside?

They sometimes run out of nutrients around that height.
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Old August 12, 2015   #3
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You most likely have a Phosphate deficiency, or cold plants. Potassium deficiency will show up as brown dying leaf tips right under the newest leaves, advanced cases you see it in the fruit, as a bigger than warranted green shoulder. Calcium d. starts at the back of the leaf by the stem/ vein in the leaf, it shows as BER in fruit, and cracks. Magnesium will show up in old growth leaves which turn golden, usually has green veins, I am not convinced this will hurt yields though.

I have been documenting these conditions, as well as the fix, I have great photos of before and after plants, I will post some pics when I get to organizing it. I have learned that there is a difference in growing tomatoes, and producing tomatoes, the latter forced me to learn better ways to do things. It is insane, I have 106 varieties this year, at least 600 vines, plants are literally strung out all over the property for different experiments, and I have to jumble fertilizer so everyone is happy. In short, I learned a few things by correcting mistakes and noting why I had a good result.
Try a good dose or two of Scott's 10-55

Last edited by AKmark; August 12, 2015 at 01:13 PM.
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Old August 12, 2015   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKmark View Post
You most likely have a Phosphate deficiency, or cold plants. Potassium deficiency will show up as brown dying leaf tips right under the newest leaves, advanced cases you see it in the fruit, as a bigger than warranted green shoulder. Calcium d. starts at the back of the leaf by the stem/ vein in the leaf, it shows as BER in fruit, and cracks. Magnesium will show up in old growth leaves which turn golden, usually has green veins, I am not convinced this will hurt yields though.

I have been documenting these conditions, as well as the fix, I have great photos of before and after plants, I will post some pics when I get to organizing it. I have learned that there is a difference in growing tomatoes, and producing tomatoes, the latter forced me to learn better ways to do things. It is insane, I have 106 varieties this year, at least 600 vines, plants are literally strung out all over the property for different experiments, and I have to jumble fertilizer so everyone is happy. In short, I learned a few things my correcting mistakes and noting why I had a good result.
Try a good dose or two of Scott's 10-55
The walk-through as you explain each experiment must be fun, or at least it would be to me! 600 vines and all of that sun = red/yellow/green/orange Yukon gold.
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Old August 12, 2015   #5
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here's the best I can do for now. sun is in the wrong place for a good picture.
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Old August 12, 2015   #6
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I concur with Akmark, Phosphorus.

Something with micronutrients could be beneficial.

Also, you may consider adding a source of humic/fulvic acid to make sure everything is available.

Plants looking good!
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Old August 12, 2015   #7
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I've got some 10-54-10 fertilizer, one tablespoon per gallon of water. how would that work?
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Old August 12, 2015   #8
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It wont kill them, that's for sure.
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