New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 4, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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growing tomatoes in coco question
So im growing cherry tomatoes from seed in coco coir and i wanted to know what the right ph for my nutrient solution should be. Im using flora nova grow by general hydroponics, cal mag plus by botanicare, rapid start by general hydroponics and some si armor by botanicare.
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March 4, 2016 | #2 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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Quote:
Edit: their website says maintain 5.5-6.5 pH for the grow solution. That is a heck of a range to shoot for. Consider that 5.5 is 10 times more acidic than 6.5! Wow that stuff is expenisve. Edit2: Review section on Si armor says: "Armor Si has a very high PH level and when mixing your nutrients up, it will drastically raise your ph." Also said that Si should be added to plain water first, before other nutrients. Funny that I was just reading up on Silicic Acid 10 minutes ago. Last edited by PureHarvest; March 4, 2016 at 03:31 PM. |
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March 4, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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O wow i just mixed it after the flora nova stuff. Hmm yeah i keep hearing diffrent first hand accounts while using coco. Some people say 5.5 others say 5.8 and 6.0.
Should i be adding cal mag to every watering not only to prevent blossom end rot but because im growing in coco? |
March 4, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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bruce, I would yield that to others here that may have used these products.
I will say that using a three part fert typically means adding calcium and magnesium each time you make a solution. I would go to Botanicare and GH websites and you will find what you are looking for. They have charts on all their stuff. |
March 4, 2016 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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Quote:
It really has little to do with coco. Soiless medium whether it is peat or coco based has no nutrient load, unless you bought one that came with nutrients, which would be a no-no, given the products u are using. Unless of course you just were using a very dilute mixture of those products into a media that has nutrients pre-added. Simply put, you have to add all the nutrients in your solution when using plain container media whether peat or coco based, and that includes Calcium. Your base nutrients won't have Calcium, so it is added as part 2. Some then have micronutrients as part 3. Usually you add one at a time into one bucket/tank full of water. Typically pH is tested last, and you adjust accordingly. For you, the silica is tricky b/c it raises pH according to the website. Plus it says you should add Si first to water, check pH, adjust, then add your nutrients, then check and adjust pH again. Then you have all the crazy newer stuff like aminos, etc. For what you are trying to do, you really should have a pH/EC meter, and know what your source water has in it. Also, if you are not a vet at this type of feeding/growing, intermingling products from different companies presents a challenge. I would recommend picking 1 product line and following the directions for the series, unless you can find someone that can give you exact rates using a combo of different products. But keep in mind their source water could be way different than yours, and that could give you different results. Last edited by PureHarvest; March 4, 2016 at 04:39 PM. |
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March 4, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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Here the Flora Nova Feed Chart from GH:
http://gh.growgh.com/docs/Feedcharts...W_021616bm.pdf It shows that cal/mag is used from week 2-9. Of course this is geared toward pot growers, so I am not sure how relevant this is to tomato folks. Also, if you followed their full chart, you would be buying 12, 12!!, products. So it gets complicated quick. |
March 4, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Potassium Silicate like Armor Si will react with the nutrients and create insoluble precipitates if it's not fully dissolved in the water first before anything else.
Are you growing using a hydro system or soil? What kind of coco coir medium are you growing in, a commercial mix or something you put together yourself? The buffered PH of the medium itself is a major consideration. |
March 4, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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The coco im using is pre bagged by gh with perlite nothing to fancy. The only thing i know about coco is that it retains potassium i think and slowly releases it. So you guys think 5.5 -6.5 is the right ph for a coco grow?
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March 5, 2016 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
Coco does have a natural potassium load and like you said releases it over time. You need to compensate for that by increasing the Calcium. More Magnesium wouldn't hurt either. The Cal-Mag would help with that in combination with the Flora Nova. If you look at their Coco-Tek AB nutrient line, they increased the Ca right in those bottles with more Calcium Nitrate. What PH you feed at is a matter of experimenting, there's nothing cut stone. It depends on your growing style, your water source, the type of plant and any other additives you are using. |
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March 5, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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Ive wanted to try that ab coco line for some time now. Ill stick at 6.0 ph. Is it a good idea to even mess with all organic nutes with coco?
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March 5, 2016 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
Organic nutes work great in Coco. Why wouldn't they? |
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March 5, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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Someone once told me using organic in coco is asking for mold alongside with the extreme mykos and that carb load sugar water by gh. I think its called flora nectar. Just curious what are your thpughts on diffrent water sources like just tap water or ro water? I dont have a ro system so i use that zero water pitcher
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March 5, 2016 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
Coco Coir can naturally harbor Trichoderma fungi, which are beneficial to the plant roots protecting against pathogenic organisms and mineralizing nutrients. A very aggressive family of fungi with a diverse appetite including other fungi that invade their turf. Tap water - depends on what kind of tap water you've got. Chlorine or Chloramines, hard water or not. The less dissolved minerals in your water, the less chance of negative reactions with the nutrients you add. Use an EC/TDS meter to see what your tap water reads. More of an issue to be concerned about with salt based nutrients than organics. R/O water is ideal, the ZERO Water filter would probably work as well on a small scale. I don't have hard water but I mainly use collected rain water for the outdoor season or melted fresh fallen snow in the winter when available for my plants indoors. About as pure as you can get without spending any money. |
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March 5, 2016 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: united states
Posts: 19
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I love the rain and snow water idea but abit hard to pull off in my area but possible. I live in illinois so my tap reads about 350ppm so not great not as bad as arizona lol. I want to try earth juice i believe its called for my first organic grow.
So back to the originated topic 5.5 - 6.5 is a good nutrient ph for coco or soil
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-bruce |
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