Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 19, 2016 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sunol, CA
Posts: 2,723
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I agree about wind. I think it is a major unappeciated factor. Significant wind really slows plants down.
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March 19, 2016 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,918
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March 19, 2016 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,918
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Quote:
The second benefit is creating a micro greenhouse effect that heats the soil. And if you put a few soda bottles filled w/ water in the cage, that will store some heat to be dissipated at night. This is more effective than WOW because the latter loses most of the heat from its outer exposure. Gardeneer |
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March 20, 2016 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Wisconsin, zone 4b
Posts: 360
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Quote:
And how much earlier do you plant from your last frost date (90%)? I'm hoping I can get away with four weeks early. |
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March 20, 2016 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,918
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Backyardfarmer,
1) I have not close the top . But you can use clear plastic. You might need that at night and during overcast days. 2) I don't plant way before my LFD. I do this because our weather will be cold for weeks and weeks after our LFD. Our temperature go up by about 5 degree, in average, in 30 days. Of course , after LFD we see lots of night lows in mid 30s. So really I am not trying to protect from frost but to keep the plants warmer. Gardeneer |
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