General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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April 6, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 511
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Cornell Unv. "Peat Lite" recipes..
Just ran across this the other day. I know a few folks here will be interested. After I run out of my current batch of my "Faux-Mix",I think im going to try out some of the recipes.
Grant it, its geared more towards commercial production of plants, but still good info. http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/cr...s/peatlite.pdf |
April 7, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 156
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cool, thanks!
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April 7, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Updated in 1982 there's a lot of good info in that paper. Commercial mixes have changed in how they proportion the ingredients, but all the components are essentially the same 35 years later.
Their mixes for tomatoes and seedlings are based with peat and vermiculite at 50/50. Most mixes today utilize perlite more and the peat in higher percentages. This could be total economics of the time, maybe perlite was expensive in the 70's. Promix HP 70% peat, 30% perlite Promix BX 70% peat, 15% perlite, 15% vermiculite |
April 8, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 156
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Looking over it, the seedling mix is basically my general purpose mix. 50/50 vermiculite/peat and then instead of the other things I put a little fert. Right now for my toms I am potting up it's 50/50 vermiculite/peat and then a bit of a 4-6-6 veg food, and bone meal (6-9-0).
I also have a tenancy to over water so I like things with really good drainage. For big pots I add sand because it's cheap and drains well. For my violets they get a basic violet mix with extra vermiculite or perlite. Orchids are in semi-hydro. I don't use perlite in things to sell because people seem to not like 'styrofoam' in their plant pots. I get tired of explaining it. |
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