Pruning Suckers 2016

budfaux · May 25, 2016

Another ad nauseam fusarium thread about 'suckers'.

Since becoming a member of this site, I realize there's a tremendous amount to try to absorb.
I want this year grow some plants with 3-4. or maybe 5-6 main stems.
So far in my observations, which I never really paid attention to until joining this forum, I notice this year what I'll call the "alpha sucker" (maybe there's another term for this?). A hardy sucker apparently opposite the first trellis. Seems to be about 4,5,6 nodes up. Slightly smaller in diameter than the main stem. Similar to when a pepper plant V's a few nodes up. I figure this is the definite *keeper* first sucker, even though there are many suckers below the alpha.

So, vacate the weaker suckers below the first trellis?
Look for dominant suckers on the main and alpha stem (alpha 3&4) to keep, which could be several nodes up? (I'm not to that point)
Do you ever top the main stem to send energy to younger suckers?

I used to plant tomatoes and and just let 'em go.

I'd like to read your favorite techniques or quirks for all of us to benefit.

AlittleSalt · May 25, 2016

I also used to plant tomatoes and let them go. I really like seeing a huge tomato plant, and so did my relatives and friends. Most importantly, my wife of almost 31 years likes the way I used to grow them a lot better.

I plan on using concrete remesh cages to grow our tomatoes in - in the future. I'll use the info I learned here to improve on how we used to grow them - like pruning the lower sections to allow air flow. Let Leaf sections grow only until suckers have established themselves and then prune the leaf section - again to allow air flow.

I've learned a lot here along the way, and not just how to grow tomatoes. I don't care to try to grow the world's largest tomato. I just want to grow some that makes us feel good.

We are not at the point of ad nauseam fusarium, many of us are discere a scientia et experiential, https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=latin+to+english

b54red · May 26, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by budfaux

Another ad nauseam fusarium thread about 'suckers'.

Since becoming a member of this site, I realize there's a tremendous amount to try to absorb.
I want this year grow some plants with 3-4. or maybe 5-6 main stems.
So far in my observations, which I never really paid attention to until joining this forum, I notice this year what I'll call the "alpha sucker" (maybe there's another term for this?). A hardy sucker apparently opposite the first trellis. Seems to be about 4,5,6 nodes up. Slightly smaller in diameter than the main stem. Similar to when a pepper plant V's a few nodes up. I figure this is the definite *keeper* first sucker, even though there are many suckers below the alpha.

So, vacate the weaker suckers below the first trellis?
Look for dominant suckers on the main and alpha stem (alpha 3&4) to keep, which could be several nodes up? (I'm not to that point)
Do you ever top the main stem to send energy to younger suckers?

I used to plant tomatoes and and just let 'em go.

I'd like to read your favorite techniques or quirks for all of us to benefit.

When I grow more than one stem and rarely do I ever grow more than two due to the support system I use now, I usually found the strongest sucker to form a main stem was either the one right below the first bloom cluster or right above it. I would usually let them both grow for a short time and then pick the strongest or the one that put on a flower cluster first and then cut off the other one. If you want to grow three stems then use them both, after that it is up to you to just pick what suckers or splits you want to let form stems. I believe you will do better in Birmingham pruning at least enough to allow good air flow because of the heat and humidity you will be dealing with as the season progresses.

The good thing about tomatoes is they are highly adaptable to just about any kind of pruning you want to try. Experiment with it and find what works best for your garden and support system you will be using. I have found that heavy pruning keeps my plants easier to spray and less susceptible to the disease problems in this part of the state and so they tend to remain productive longer. If on the other hand you want as many fruits as possible in the shortest amount of time then don't prune much above the first fruit cluster.

Bill

Gardeneer · May 26, 2016

In my mind there is a difference between suckers and branching out on top, or simultaneous up growth next to the main branch.
What I call a "sucker" or "lateral" those are the ones that grow from the leaf nodes on the main and up growth branches. In some varieties the up branches form a "V" then each side of "V" make another "V". I prune any laterals/suckers below the first "V" . When the up branches grow "UP" suckers will grow at an angle side way.

After couple of "V" formation, there will suckers on them too. I also prune those..

The above is the case with indeterminants. With the determinants, they get different treatment. I let all the early side branched to be . For example a Legend variety has close to 6 laterals. As they grow , you will see laterals on each of them too. I will then prune them as well. In my short cool growing climate the secondary laterals will have no chance practically to get into production phase early enough to produce ripe tomatoes.

So far I talked about pruning branches. But pruning also involves leaf branches. As the plants start setting, I start pruning lower leaf branches under the first truss. By then there will enough foliage on top already to support photosynthesis. Right now I am getting close to that phase of pruning.

Gardeneer

berryman · May 26, 2016

Great info here, thanks tomato peeps!

Anthony_Toronto · May 26, 2016

I'm pruning to 3 to 5 stems this year, letting 'em go for the past 5 or 6 years hasn't helped production ripening or tomato size and led to excessive work and foliar problems. I will let suckers grow a bit though, maybe a foot or more long before I pinch off the growing tip, so as to add more foliage for cover and photosynthesis. We will see how it works, but I expect tearing off suckers to create less work and cost than having to put 8 or 9 eight-foot stakes on each monster of a plant.

May 25, 2016	#1
budfaux Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Birmingham, ALABAMA Posts: 68	Pruning Suckers 2016 Another ad nauseam fusarium thread about 'suckers'. Since becoming a member of this site, I realize there's a tremendous amount to try to absorb. I want this year grow some plants with 3-4. or maybe 5-6 main stems. So far in my observations, which I never really paid attention to until joining this forum, I notice this year what I'll call the "alpha sucker" (maybe there's another term for this?). A hardy sucker apparently opposite the first trellis. Seems to be about 4,5,6 nodes up. Slightly smaller in diameter than the main stem. Similar to when a pepper plant V's a few nodes up. I figure this is the definite keeper first sucker, even though there are many suckers below the alpha. So, vacate the weaker suckers below the first trellis? Look for dominant suckers on the main and alpha stem (alpha 3&4) to keep, which could be several nodes up? (I'm not to that point) Do you ever top the main stem to send energy to younger suckers? I used to plant tomatoes and and just let 'em go. I'd like to read your favorite techniques or quirks for all of us to benefit.

May 25, 2016	#2
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	I also used to plant tomatoes and let them go. I really like seeing a huge tomato plant, and so did my relatives and friends. Most importantly, my wife of almost 31 years likes the way I used to grow them a lot better. I plan on using concrete remesh cages to grow our tomatoes in - in the future. I'll use the info I learned here to improve on how we used to grow them - like pruning the lower sections to allow air flow. Let Leaf sections grow only until suckers have established themselves and then prune the leaf section - again to allow air flow. I've learned a lot here along the way, and not just how to grow tomatoes. I don't care to try to grow the world's largest tomato. I just want to grow some that makes us feel good. We are not at the point of ad nauseam fusarium, many of us are discere a scientia et experiential, https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=latin+to+english

May 26, 2016	#4
Gardeneer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7 Posts: 4,919	In my mind there is a difference between suckers and branching out on top, or simultaneous up growth next to the main branch. What I call a "sucker" or "lateral" those are the ones that grow from the leaf nodes on the main and up growth branches. In some varieties the up branches form a "V" then each side of "V" make another "V". I prune any laterals/suckers below the first "V" . When the up branches grow "UP" suckers will grow at an angle side way. After couple of "V" formation, there will suckers on them too. I also prune those.. The above is the case with indeterminants. With the determinants, they get different treatment. I let all the early side branched to be . For example a Legend variety has close to 6 laterals. As they grow , you will see laterals on each of them too. I will then prune them as well. In my short cool growing climate the secondary laterals will have no chance practically to get into production phase early enough to produce ripe tomatoes. So far I talked about pruning branches. But pruning also involves leaf branches. As the plants start setting, I start pruning lower leaf branches under the first truss. By then there will enough foliage on top already to support photosynthesis. Right now I am getting close to that phase of pruning. Gardeneer

May 26, 2016	#5
berryman Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: central utah Posts: 233	Great info here, thanks tomato peeps!

May 26, 2016	#6
Anthony_Toronto Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto Posts: 413	I'm pruning to 3 to 5 stems this year, letting 'em go for the past 5 or 6 years hasn't helped production ripening or tomato size and led to excessive work and foliar problems. I will let suckers grow a bit though, maybe a foot or more long before I pinch off the growing tip, so as to add more foliage for cover and photosynthesis. We will see how it works, but I expect tearing off suckers to create less work and cost than having to put 8 or 9 eight-foot stakes on each monster of a plant.