Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
July 16, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 169
|
Southeastern growers - is the heat and humidity halting ripeness?
My tomato productivity has ground to a halt - I have successfully eaten 5 from a bush hybrid, and 10 from a Creole, but nothing else seems to be growing anything. My Patio bush has one cherry sized green, and my Creole has about 10 4-6oz. tomatoes, but it seems like they have been green for about a month - nothing is blushing. My cucumber has yielded one (out of two tremendous vining plants), and my eggplant are producing like crazy.
Is my MS heat and humidity stopping the fruits from turning? I have lots of buds, and a ton of flowers - but no fruit! Is this just something I am going to have to endure?
__________________
"Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better than bacon and lettuce, and home-grown tomatoes." - Guy Clark (RIP), "Home-Grown Tomatoes" |
July 16, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
|
I had this happen in AZ several times. It was usually a pretty wicked heat wave when it happened. The tomatoes would stay green or even turn sort of ripe but never ripen if they hadn't gotten to a blush stage. If they had blushed I took them in the house as they would just rot.
I've read the enzymes required for ripening are deactivated above a certain temperature. |
July 16, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MS
Posts: 211
|
I think it depends on the variety. I have a few that continue to set fruit even in this hot weather: Edelrot, Black Zebra, Green Zebra, and a couple others (I'd have to go walk out there and look). Others have completely shut down. I've not grown Creole, so can't comment on it or the other varieties you're growing.
|
July 17, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
When it gets really hot, step up on the watering, and keep giggling the plants.
|
July 17, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 99
|
I'm 72 miles north of Atlanta - was out of the country from 6/24-6/28 and had zero fruit set during that time. Apparently it was unseasonably hot, way too hot for pollenation. In the last 3 weeks i've had a ton of fruit set and lots more flowers with heavy bumblebee action. Mid to late August is going to be my big harvest.
We're 19-15 °F cooler than Atlanta so I suspect Atlanta plants are stuck or done due to the heat.
__________________
Adriana Gutierrez |
July 18, 2016 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,500
|
Heat and humidity
Quote:
humidity and heat will clump pollens on some plants as to prevent fruit set.Even the action of the wings of pollinators will/can not loosen the the pollen.So Q-tips,manual vibration,the electric tooth brush,the new pollination machines will help in these conditions.I know some folks who save pollens from the machines and manually innoculate for cross pollenization and regular.It does stay viable for a time.LATE EDITING:Note that the original post IMO is referring to determinates,now cherry maters which I grow a lot of since they will have more blooms,ripen differently,evenly and longer might start a different discussion.
__________________
KURT Last edited by kurt; July 18, 2016 at 04:11 PM. |
|
July 18, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
|
Of course fruit production slows considerably in the intense heat but mainly due to blooms falling off from both too little water and lack of pollination. Ripening is a funny thing because with most varieties high heat only speeds up the ripening but with some it will slow it down. Putting down a heavy mulch along with keeping the plants well watered and adequately fertilized will up production and even ripening. I grow fruit all summer long despite the heat but don't expect massive production nor massive fruit size during these trying times. Just keeping the diseases at bay and the pests from taking over can be a demanding chore not to mention keeping an adequate amount of moisture constant so the plants don't suffer too much stress on the hottest days and drop all their blooms.
Despite the high heat some of my plants continue to set an adequate amount of fruit but others do not fare so well. It is important to know which plants do the best during the summer heat and after years of experimenting I have found some reliable ones but I continue to try others and see if they will perform during the late summer heat. I plant my tomatoes on staggered dates. I set out the more heat sensitive varieties like the large pink beefsteaks first and at later dates set out varieties that perform better than most during the hottest times. By doing this I maximize production on some of the more stingy plants like Brandywine Sudduth's. This system also allows me to have younger plants coming into their most productive stage during the hottest part of the summer. The young healty plants seem to set far more fruit on those first few trusses than the older plants and they have a better chance to live on through the fall. Bill |
July 18, 2016 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Mechanicsville, VA zone 7a
Posts: 97
|
Quote:
__________________
"The task of the modern educator is not to cut down jungles but to irrigate deserts." C.S. Lewis |
|
July 18, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 166
|
I am in Mississippi, too (mid-state) and I am still getting tomatoes. Things slow down a lots in July and August though.
I water every few days. And for the most part, tomatoes are smaller late in the season. |
July 19, 2016 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 169
|
Quote:
__________________
"Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better than bacon and lettuce, and home-grown tomatoes." - Guy Clark (RIP), "Home-Grown Tomatoes" |
|
July 19, 2016 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 169
|
Quote:
I also have a Bonnie "Better Bush" plant - looks lush and just starting to bud and bloom - I feel certain that will produce, too - just gotta be patient. I have a Bonnie "Creole" - and there is some controversy regarding whether this is a hybrid or an heirloom - apparently LSU says they do not have any of the stock, but Bonnie and other sellers certainly sell the plant and seeds with the language stating that the seeds were developed by LSU and heat/humidity resistant. I got about 12 from this plant in early June - 4-6 oz. and super tasty. It set about 3 weeks ago that have been growing and have surpassed the first picking in size. A bit of superficial cracking along the shoulders of many of those tomatoes because mother nature was a bit heavy in the rain dept and a bit erratic in early July here.
__________________
"Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better than bacon and lettuce, and home-grown tomatoes." - Guy Clark (RIP), "Home-Grown Tomatoes" |
|
July 19, 2016 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 169
|
Quote:
Do you grow any heirloom tomatoes? Any types better or worse for you? I have 3 Pink Brandywine and 3 Mortgage Lifter plants (Burpee seed) that are growing like mad - good buds, blooms, but I suspect the heat may be hindering the fruit setting. I have 2 Pink Berkeley Tie Dye and 2 Sweet Carneros Pink that are just about 1 foot tall - hopefully they will be good to set some fruit in September.
__________________
"Ain't nothin' in the world that I like better than bacon and lettuce, and home-grown tomatoes." - Guy Clark (RIP), "Home-Grown Tomatoes" |
|
|
|