Parthenocarpic

MarlynnMarcks · September 2, 2016

Does anyone know what tomatoes or peppers or cucumbers are Parthenocarpic

crankyoldfart · September 2, 2016

Cucumber variety "Diva" is promoted as being gynoecious and parthenocarpic.

Scooty · September 2, 2016

Monika cucumber

decherdt · September 2, 2016

We liked Picolino, Corinto and Diva (P) cucumbers, though I thought they were finicky about being growing outdoors. Highmowing and Stokes list many others.

Worth1 · September 2, 2016

Why do or are you looking for or asking about them.
Is it to grow seedless or to grow without a pollinator like a bee?

The reason I ask is I dont know if you know but a tomato and a pepper do not need pollinators.
cucumbers and any other plant with male and female flowers do need some sort of pollinator.
For squash it is the same thing but it wasn't the honey bee that did it because honey bees are not native to the Americas but squash are.

Worth

September 2, 2016

I know lots of them.

For tomatoes, look at this link:

http://shule.crabdance.com/garden/to..._tomatoes.html

For cucumbers, I agree that Monika is parthenocarpic (it was also mostly gynoecious at first, for me, which is possibly a trait you want along with pathenocarpy for highest production). Little Leaf is parthenocarpic, but later in my garden, and not mostly gynoecious. There are *loads* of parthenocarpic cucumbers, but I've tried these. Monika is great. It has great taste. It looks kind of like an overripe cucumber, but it tastes great and should work for both fresh eating and pickles.

Planet F1 from territorialseed.com is parthenocarpic.

I have a feeling that Carolina Reapers are at least somewhat parthenocarpic (I got seedless fruit indoors on my plant that may or may not be a full Carolina Reaper).

I haven't found parthenocarpic plants (with the exception of Monika cucumbers) to do any better than average in my garden. I think acclimatizing crops to the dry air, hot days, cool nights, clay loam soil and city water is probably key in my area. This year, I grew the following parthenocarpic plants:

* Legend tomato (it was doing reasonably, but it's crowded and hard to get to)
* Siletz tomato (it was doing reasonably, but it's lost in the tomato jungle)
* Oroma tomato (the plants were kind of delicate, but they're doing better now; it did better in the shade for me; I'm guessing this is more adapted to the PNW; it hasn't been very productive in my garden; my first tomato was smaller and shaped like a wasp body, with the stinger, but some of the later ones in the shade were larger and tubular; a number of the fruits on shaded plants got blossom end rot. I saved seeds to see if it'll do any better in a future year.)
* Planet F1 pepper (Not high production. Decent sized peppers.)
* Monika cucumber (This should be awesome for you, I'm guessing.)
* Little Leaf cucumber (It really does have tiny leaves. Late production. Not gynoecious.)

Beit Alpha (which is not known to be parthenocarpic, as far as I know) is actually my most productive cucumber, though, but Monika started out more productive. Beit Alpha is adapted to heat, drought, and clay, I think, however. In Florida, you might want Suyo Long, though (which also isn't parthenocarpic, but it should do well where it's hot and humid; I'm growing it this year, and it does okay where it's hot and semi-arid, too, but it's not the earliest).

September 2, 2016

If you're trying to get more production (especially in a hot area), when it comes to tomatoes and peppers, I would recommend just looking for productive varieties that do well where it's hot and humid, rather than parthenocarpic varieties (although both wouldn't hurt). If you're breeding, parthenocarpy could be interesting to work with, though, but most of the better-known parthenocarpic tomatoes come from around the Oregon coast, I believe. Siletz would probably be a good one to work with. A lot of people like it (and a lot of people like it more than Legend, even though Legend is supposed to be an improvement).

For peppers, you might consider Corbaci, Yatsufusa/Yatzy, Grandpa's Home, Ring of Fire, and Chervena Chushka for productive (not parthenocarpic) peppers. They've all been pretty productive for me, anyway. I'm not sure how they would do in Florida. There should be plenty of productive C. chinense peppers, too. I've harvested over 50 fruits from my Orange Carbonero, so far (and it still has more on the plant). I did start it super early, though.

For tomatoes, you might try George Detsikas Italian Red. I might recommend blue tomatoes (and purple/black peppers), too, since they should reflect UV rays better (and the UV index can be high in Florida, or at least the Miami area; I'm not sure about where you are). Black Jalapeno is a pepper that has had good production for me that should reflect UV rays well. I could give you seeds, but I only have 5 seeds from the original packet, and the new seeds I saved are probably crossed with other stuff I'm growing (they're close to Jalapeno Gigante, Evil Jalapeno, Jumbo Jalapeno, Planet F1, Yatsufusa, Ring of Fire, Tobasco, and maybe others, and there are more possible peppers further away).

If you're wanting parthenocarpic plants for better production indoors, you might try Grandpa's Home pepper. It may not be parthenocarpic, but it is supposed to do well in the shade (including indoors without grow lights). Gold Nugget is a parthenocarpic tomato that should do well inside.

Barb_FL · September 2, 2016

Cucumber - Sweet Success is also Pathenocarpic.

Beit Alpha as recommended by Shule1 is NOT Pathenocarpic but it is also my most productive and best tasting cucumber too. I picked 330 cucumbers in a 7.5 week period starting at the end of July and August. (I kept track) This was with 3 plants (3 seeds). Once it is a decent size it does fine with intense sun and heat. We had many days over 90. 2 seeds / plants were in an EB, the other seed in a root pouch.

Gardeneer · September 3, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Why do or are you looking for or asking about them.
Is it to grow seedless or to grow without a pollinator like a bee?

The reason I ask is I dont know if you know but a tomato and a pepper do not need pollinators.
cucumbers and any other plant with male and female flowers do need some sort of pollinator.
For squash it is the same thing but it wasn't the honey bee that did it because honey bees are not native to the Americas but squash are.

Worth

The reason for breeding parthenocarpic tomatoes is that they can set fruit with no pollination in either cold or hot weather. And as a result they might not have any seeds. But that is not the reason for it.

Gerardo · September 3, 2016

Successive plantings of Monika, Sweet Success and Beit Alpha will keep you flush with cucumbers for a few months.

MarlynnMarcks · September 3, 2016

Thanks for so much information. I intend to try them all.

Cole_Robbie · September 3, 2016

Sweet Success is my favorite cuke. The larger ones will have what look like seeds, but are really just the husk. Inside the cuke, they have water in them, so they look like a full seed, but when dried, there is just an empty husk left.

Gardadore · September 3, 2016

Another parthenocarpic cucumber I have been growing for the past two summers is Telegraph Imperial(from Fedco 2015). I planted it in a tent and outside. The outside one was producing like crazy until disease got it a week ago - probably spread by a cucumber beetle. The one in the tent is growing well but didn't get watered often enough in our heat so was not as productive. But at the moment after a nice rain it is forming flowers and shows no sign of disease which is why I grow parthenocarpic! (so I can grow it away from bugs!). I have grown Diva with limited success in the tent but I like the cucumber when it produces.

Ricky Shaw · September 3, 2016

Diva's first year for me and loved it. Smooth skinned and sweet, a snappy cruncher when chilled, perfect at 1 1/2" x 6" with abundant production. And it didn't go bitter in the dry heat, which is a problem here.

The hybrid seeds off the rack of Burpee Garden Sweet Burbless, grew well but were too bitter to eat by August, I will not plant those ever again. I'm going with Sweet Success and Diva as my only two cukes next year.

Marketmore76 has done well as an OP for me, it lasts until the frost or you get tired of watering it. This Diva is about played out now, couple of months on a rather petite cuke so I'm not complaining, but I wish I had that Marketmore to carry through September.

September 2, 2016	#1
MarlynnMarcks Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Port St Lucie, Florida Posts: 180	Parthenocarpic Does anyone know what tomatoes or peppers or cucumbers are Parthenocarpic

September 2, 2016	#4
decherdt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 329	We liked Picolino, Corinto and Diva (P) cucumbers, though I thought they were finicky about being growing outdoors. Highmowing and Stokes list many others. __________________ 500 sq ft of raised rows zone 8a

September 2, 2016	#6
shule1 Guest Posts: n/a	I know lots of them. For tomatoes, look at this link: http://shule.crabdance.com/garden/to..._tomatoes.html For cucumbers, I agree that Monika is parthenocarpic (it was also mostly gynoecious at first, for me, which is possibly a trait you want along with pathenocarpy for highest production). Little Leaf is parthenocarpic, but later in my garden, and not mostly gynoecious. There are loads of parthenocarpic cucumbers, but I've tried these. Monika is great. It has great taste. It looks kind of like an overripe cucumber, but it tastes great and should work for both fresh eating and pickles. Planet F1 from territorialseed.com is parthenocarpic. I have a feeling that Carolina Reapers are at least somewhat parthenocarpic (I got seedless fruit indoors on my plant that may or may not be a full Carolina Reaper). I haven't found parthenocarpic plants (with the exception of Monika cucumbers) to do any better than average in my garden. I think acclimatizing crops to the dry air, hot days, cool nights, clay loam soil and city water is probably key in my area. This year, I grew the following parthenocarpic plants: * Legend tomato (it was doing reasonably, but it's crowded and hard to get to) * Siletz tomato (it was doing reasonably, but it's lost in the tomato jungle) * Oroma tomato (the plants were kind of delicate, but they're doing better now; it did better in the shade for me; I'm guessing this is more adapted to the PNW; it hasn't been very productive in my garden; my first tomato was smaller and shaped like a wasp body, with the stinger, but some of the later ones in the shade were larger and tubular; a number of the fruits on shaded plants got blossom end rot. I saved seeds to see if it'll do any better in a future year.) * Planet F1 pepper (Not high production. Decent sized peppers.) * Monika cucumber (This should be awesome for you, I'm guessing.) * Little Leaf cucumber (It really does have tiny leaves. Late production. Not gynoecious.) Beit Alpha (which is not known to be parthenocarpic, as far as I know) is actually my most productive cucumber, though, but Monika started out more productive. Beit Alpha is adapted to heat, drought, and clay, I think, however. In Florida, you might want Suyo Long, though (which also isn't parthenocarpic, but it should do well where it's hot and humid; I'm growing it this year, and it does okay where it's hot and semi-arid, too, but it's not the earliest). Last edited by shule1; September 2, 2016 at 08:13 PM.

September 2, 2016	#7
shule1 Guest Posts: n/a	If you're trying to get more production (especially in a hot area), when it comes to tomatoes and peppers, I would recommend just looking for productive varieties that do well where it's hot and humid, rather than parthenocarpic varieties (although both wouldn't hurt). If you're breeding, parthenocarpy could be interesting to work with, though, but most of the better-known parthenocarpic tomatoes come from around the Oregon coast, I believe. Siletz would probably be a good one to work with. A lot of people like it (and a lot of people like it more than Legend, even though Legend is supposed to be an improvement). For peppers, you might consider Corbaci, Yatsufusa/Yatzy, Grandpa's Home, Ring of Fire, and Chervena Chushka for productive (not parthenocarpic) peppers. They've all been pretty productive for me, anyway. I'm not sure how they would do in Florida. There should be plenty of productive C. chinense peppers, too. I've harvested over 50 fruits from my Orange Carbonero, so far (and it still has more on the plant). I did start it super early, though. For tomatoes, you might try George Detsikas Italian Red. I might recommend blue tomatoes (and purple/black peppers), too, since they should reflect UV rays better (and the UV index can be high in Florida, or at least the Miami area; I'm not sure about where you are). Black Jalapeno is a pepper that has had good production for me that should reflect UV rays well. I could give you seeds, but I only have 5 seeds from the original packet, and the new seeds I saved are probably crossed with other stuff I'm growing (they're close to Jalapeno Gigante, Evil Jalapeno, Jumbo Jalapeno, Planet F1, Yatsufusa, Ring of Fire, Tobasco, and maybe others, and there are more possible peppers further away). If you're wanting parthenocarpic plants for better production indoors, you might try Grandpa's Home pepper. It may not be parthenocarpic, but it is supposed to do well in the shade (including indoors without grow lights). Gold Nugget is a parthenocarpic tomato that should do well inside. Last edited by shule1; September 2, 2016 at 07:28 PM.

September 2, 2016	#2
crankyoldfart Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Hopkinton, MA Posts: 26	Cucumber variety "Diva" is promoted as being gynoecious and parthenocarpic.

September 2, 2016	#3
Scooty Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Chicago-land & SO-cal Posts: 583	Monika cucumber

September 2, 2016	#5
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Why do or are you looking for or asking about them. Is it to grow seedless or to grow without a pollinator like a bee? The reason I ask is I dont know if you know but a tomato and a pepper do not need pollinators. cucumbers and any other plant with male and female flowers do need some sort of pollinator. For squash it is the same thing but it wasn't the honey bee that did it because honey bees are not native to the Americas but squash are. Worth

September 2, 2016	#8
Barb_FL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Indialantic, Florida Posts: 2,000	Cucumber - Sweet Success is also Pathenocarpic. Beit Alpha as recommended by Shule1 is NOT Pathenocarpic but it is also my most productive and best tasting cucumber too. I picked 330 cucumbers in a 7.5 week period starting at the end of July and August. (I kept track) This was with 3 plants (3 seeds). Once it is a decent size it does fine with intense sun and heat. We had many days over 90. 2 seeds / plants were in an EB, the other seed in a root pouch.

September 3, 2016	#10
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,598	Successive plantings of Monika, Sweet Success and Beit Alpha will keep you flush with cucumbers for a few months.

September 3, 2016	#12
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Sweet Success is my favorite cuke. The larger ones will have what look like seeds, but are really just the husk. Inside the cuke, they have water in them, so they look like a full seed, but when dried, there is just an empty husk left.

September 3, 2016	#13
Gardadore Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Saylorsburg, PA Posts: 261	Another parthenocarpic cucumber I have been growing for the past two summers is Telegraph Imperial(from Fedco 2015). I planted it in a tent and outside. The outside one was producing like crazy until disease got it a week ago - probably spread by a cucumber beetle. The one in the tent is growing well but didn't get watered often enough in our heat so was not as productive. But at the moment after a nice rain it is forming flowers and shows no sign of disease which is why I grow parthenocarpic! (so I can grow it away from bugs!). I have grown Diva with limited success in the tent but I like the cucumber when it produces.

September 3, 2016	#14
Ricky Shaw Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro Posts: 1,910	Diva's first year for me and loved it. Smooth skinned and sweet, a snappy cruncher when chilled, perfect at 1 1/2" x 6" with abundant production. And it didn't go bitter in the dry heat, which is a problem here. The hybrid seeds off the rack of Burpee Garden Sweet Burbless, grew well but were too bitter to eat by August, I will not plant those ever again. I'm going with Sweet Success and Diva as my only two cukes next year. Marketmore76 has done well as an OP for me, it lasts until the frost or you get tired of watering it. This Diva is about played out now, couple of months on a rather petite cuke so I'm not complaining, but I wish I had that Marketmore to carry through September.