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Old January 13, 2017   #16
Cole_Robbie
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I think the key with the small hobby greenhouses, other than diligent venting, would be anchoring it against high winds. I was thinking about building a small one on my front porch. I would screw everything down so it wouldn't blow away. If I just rolled a covered shelf out there, I would be picking the cover out of the neighbor's trees on the first windy spring day.

I know a farmer who went to an ag dept talk about greenhouses, which told him that roll-up sides were optional. So he didn't included them on the large greenhouse he built, and ended up cooking several thousand pepper plants. Whoops.
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Old January 13, 2017   #17
old_drummer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
I think the key with the small hobby greenhouses, other than diligent venting, would be anchoring it against high winds. I was thinking about building a small one on my front porch. I would screw everything down so it wouldn't blow away. If I just rolled a covered shelf out there, I would be picking the cover out of the neighbor's trees on the first windy spring day.

I know a farmer who went to an ag dept talk about greenhouses, which told him that roll-up sides were optional. So he didn't included them on the large greenhouse he built, and ended up cooking several thousand pepper plants. Whoops.
My hoops structure I put together last year was well anchored to the ground. I had plants in it the entire month of April. The PITA was babysitting it. I have a remote thermometer and the sides roll up for cooling and venting.
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Old January 16, 2017   #18
dirtdobber
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http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...926#post607926


I am doubling the size this year I have to post up some pics but this worked great last year I started out with dual layer over the top at first for temp control and more of a sun filter. the older they got I took off the second layer and didn't realize I needed a shade screen on top of it until the temp hit 112 on a 40 degree day in march the plants not only survived but they didn't even droop!
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Old January 16, 2017   #19
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I love hardening off under plastic. It's the simplest hardening off strategy I have ever found. Just put them out and ignore them other than watering, and bringing in if frosty weather threatens.

6 mil plastic is sufficient. 8 would be better. Or two sheets of 6 equals 12.

I like to make a canopy, with open sides, rather than a fully enclosed tent, Because that way I don't have to worry about overheating during the day.

Last edited by joseph; January 16, 2017 at 10:37 PM.
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Old January 16, 2017   #20
rhines81
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I am not a firm believer in "hardening off" because my plants generally receive all natural sunlight throughout the growing process and once they are transplanted to a solo cup they have an oscillating fan on low blowing on them for at least 8 hours a day. They do get an express weekend or two out in the elements on my deck prior to transplant in the garden, but I will not cater and baby sit them ... haven't lost one due to garden stress. I work full time, so gardening is more of a weekend thing until the daylight hours get longer and the temperature warms up.
You can harden them off all you like, but one good late Spring hail storm is more of a concern then a little too much sunlight or wind.
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Old January 16, 2017   #21
SueCT
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Watching this thread with interest since hardening off is always a problem for me. Working during the day means I have to decide preferably the night before if they stay out or go into the garage for the next day. I have had some sun burn but never had a disaster until this last year. Lost most of my seedlings when I left them out in high winds all day and the wind burn was so severe, many were toast. I salvaged just enough to put in my own garden from those in the middle that were partially shielded by the plants along the outside edge. I am wondering if this type of wood frame structure with a fine screening like you use in a window screen would provide enough shade and wind break without causing too much heat on a nice day. I could just throw a blanket or tarp over it if its going get a little chilly or remove them temporarily if a real cold snap was forcast.
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Old January 16, 2017   #22
Gardeneer
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I think bigger seedlings take more care to harden off than smaller ones. If I were not itchy , I would start seeds later than I do, to have smaller seedlings at the plant out time. I have already sown half of mine but will delay the remaining half 3 weeks.
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Old January 16, 2017   #23
Ricky Shaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph View Post
I like to make a canopy, with open sides, rather than a fully enclosed tent, Because that way I don't have to worry about overheating during the day.

Exactly how I ended up using the frame from my 6x8 portable poly greenhouse.
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Old January 17, 2017   #24
old_drummer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdobber View Post
http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...926#post607926


I am doubling the size this year I have to post up some pics but this worked great last year I started out with dual layer over the top at first for temp control and more of a sun filter. the older they got I took off the second layer and didn't realize I needed a shade screen on top of it until the temp hit 112 on a 40 degree day in march the plants not only survived but they didn't even droop!
That looks a whole lot like what I have in mind!
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Old January 19, 2017   #25
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Agribon doesnt seem to overheat as fast as poly, and can give some frost protection too.
Hardening off was always bad for me until I figured this out.
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Old January 19, 2017   #26
Cole_Robbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhines81 View Post
I am not a firm believer in "hardening off" because my plants generally receive all natural sunlight throughout the growing process
That sunlight is doing the trick for you. I have raised plants entirely under artificial light, taken them to market to sell, and had them wilt in front of my eyes like they were dying, because they were seeing the sun for the first time.
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