Covering seeds at proper depth

ARgardener · February 17, 2017

I may sound completely ignorant here, but I always have the hardest time with trying to gauge how deep I'm planting seeds.

I usually rake some soil from either side of my raised row then smooth the soil out, but it's darn near impossible for me to tell if I've added 1/4", 1/2", etc.

Anyone have any tips on how to cover seeds with the right amount of soil?

twillis2252 · February 17, 2017

Great how to videos from NCTomatoman, our own Craig LeHoullier on seed starting. I used his method last year and had resounding success...Highly recommend!

http://www.craiglehoullier.com/resources/

KarenO · February 17, 2017

It's very different direct sowing seed in the garden than indoors.

For me , the only way to do it is slow. I do it by hand. I find I always use too much soil to cover if I use a rake or hoe.
I put a stake at each end and run a string to start the row. Then I make a shallow trench along the string so the row is straight. Then I water that trench well allowing the water to soak in.
Then I sow the seed doing my best not the sow too thick because I hate thinning. Then I cover the seed by hand to the eyeballed correct depth and firm in gently. It's slow but more seed grows if not buried too deep. Not practical for a huge or market garden.
Watering the shallow trenches first helps the seed stick and not blow away. There is no need to water again right away after sowing of the seed so you wont wash your seeds out of that nice straight row. I hate a crooked row

KarenO

UFXEFU · February 17, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarenO

It's very different direct sowing seed in the garden than indoors.

For me , the only way to do it is slow. I do it by hand. I find I always use too much soil to cover if I use a rake or hoe.
I put a stake at each end and run a string to start the row. Then I make a shallow trench along the string so the row is straight. Then I water that trench well allowing the water to soak in.
Then I sow the seed doing my best not the sow too thick because I hate thinning. Then I cover the seed by hand to the eyeballed correct depth and firm in gently. It's slow but more seed grows if not buried too deep. Not practical for a huge or market garden.
Watering the shallow trenches first helps the seed stick and not blow away. There is no need to water again right away after sowing of the seed so you wont wash your seeds out of that nice straight row. I hate a crooked row

KarenO

You can grow more on a crooked row!

KarenO · February 17, 2017

Haha! Maybe so but it's easier to weed a straight one.

My Dear Dad taught me how to make a garden row and for me there's no other way but arrow straight
KarenO

Gardeneer · February 18, 2017

The rule of thumb about covering the seeds is TWICE the size of seeds. Take or leave a bit.
I was going to plant some tobacco seeds. They are the tiniest seeds I have ever seen. They say DON"T cover them. Well that is logical. How the sprouts of those tiny tiny seeds can push through any cover !!

ARgardener · February 19, 2017

Planted kohlrabi, carrot, chard, and multicrop today. I still get the feeling as I'm sowing that I'm covering too deep!! I just have the hardest time gauging depth and volume of soil...
That concludes my early-spring planting, every other sowing will be of big seeds, so it's all done for now..

slugworth · February 21, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

I was going to plant some tobacco seeds. They are the tiniest seeds I have ever seen. They say DON"T cover them. Well that is logical. How the sprouts of those tiny tiny seeds can push through any cover !!

Actually,they need sunlight to germinate.
The tough part is keeping them properly watered.I am going to start some myself.

oakley · February 21, 2017

I rake, water gently, then use the back of the rake with a tap-tap to firm the row/area.
Make an indentation with a thin board or dibbler....set seed about 2-3 depth of the size and water in gently, then cover with pet or light soil, tap again with the back of rake, light water then cover with a wide board for a few days. (peas and larger seeds like chard, beets)
Carrots are tiny so i cast the seeds over the wet compacted row, then cover. I use light weight ship-lap siding. Any heavy rains can wash away or pop up freshly planted seeds.

Gardeneer · March 13, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

The rule of thumb about covering the seeds is TWICE the size of seeds. Take or leave a bit.
I was going to plant some tobacco seeds. They are the tiniest seeds I have ever seen. They say DON"T cover them. Well that is logical. How the sprouts of those tiny tiny seeds can push through any cover !!

UPDATE:
Of all the seeds sown in 18 cell, I've got 5 going.
I admit that I did not give them full attention. It required a lot more attending than things like tomatoes and peppers.
But this is my first experience. Even if I manage to get 2 going that will be ok.

I will pot them up in a few days.

Worth1 · March 13, 2017

Looking up tobacco I discovered that the obesity rate was about 50%.

This was higher than what it is now of around 36%.
If this is a pictuer from the UK this it is up by 14%.

Notice the guy on the left what do you see?
Worth

MuddyToes · March 14, 2017

For seeds that need to be planted shallow, like 1/8 or so, I sometimes just water the soil well, cast the seeds on top and then watch closely for several days. When I see germination, I sprinkle some fine soil overtop and water again to keep the new sprouts moist. Another trick I learned at the Mother Earth News Fair is to use row cover directly over the seeds instead of a fine soil layer. When the roots start moving into the soil, I can remove the row cover and add soil as needed. I use this method for lettuce and other greens with small seeds. I have found that orach doesn't like to be covered at all.

For bigger seeds likes peas, beans, and squash, I follow the rule: plant one to two lengths of the seed deep.

For tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, I used Craig's method these past couple weeks with very good success. Thanks, Craig!

February 17, 2017	#1
ARgardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: steamy southern Arkansas Posts: 155	Covering seeds at proper depth I may sound completely ignorant here, but I always have the hardest time with trying to gauge how deep I'm planting seeds. I usually rake some soil from either side of my raised row then smooth the soil out, but it's darn near impossible for me to tell if I've added 1/4", 1/2", etc. Anyone have any tips on how to cover seeds with the right amount of soil?

February 17, 2017	#3
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,931	It's very different direct sowing seed in the garden than indoors. For me , the only way to do it is slow. I do it by hand. I find I always use too much soil to cover if I use a rake or hoe. I put a stake at each end and run a string to start the row. Then I make a shallow trench along the string so the row is straight. Then I water that trench well allowing the water to soak in. Then I sow the seed doing my best not the sow too thick because I hate thinning. Then I cover the seed by hand to the eyeballed correct depth and firm in gently. It's slow but more seed grows if not buried too deep. Not practical for a huge or market garden. Watering the shallow trenches first helps the seed stick and not blow away. There is no need to water again right away after sowing of the seed so you wont wash your seeds out of that nice straight row. I hate a crooked row KarenO Last edited by KarenO; February 17, 2017 at 01:59 PM.

February 18, 2017	#6
Gardeneer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7 Posts: 4,917	The rule of thumb about covering the seeds is TWICE the size of seeds. Take or leave a bit. I was going to plant some tobacco seeds. They are the tiniest seeds I have ever seen. They say DON"T cover them. Well that is logical. How the sprouts of those tiny tiny seeds can push through any cover !! __________________ Gardeneer Happy Gardening !

March 13, 2017	#11
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Looking up tobacco I discovered that the obesity rate was about 50%. This was higher than what it is now of around 36%. If this is a pictuer from the UK this it is up by 14%. Notice the guy on the left what do you see? Worth Last edited by Worth1; March 13, 2017 at 11:38 AM.

February 17, 2017	#2
twillis2252 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: SC & NC Posts: 258	Great how to videos from NCTomatoman, our own Craig LeHoullier on seed starting. I used his method last year and had resounding success...Highly recommend! http://www.craiglehoullier.com/resources/

February 19, 2017	#7
ARgardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: steamy southern Arkansas Posts: 155	Planted kohlrabi, carrot, chard, and multicrop today. I still get the feeling as I'm sowing that I'm covering too deep!! I just have the hardest time gauging depth and volume of soil... That concludes my early-spring planting, every other sowing will be of big seeds, so it's all done for now..

February 21, 2017	#9
oakley Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: NewYork 5a Posts: 2,303	I rake, water gently, then use the back of the rake with a tap-tap to firm the row/area. Make an indentation with a thin board or dibbler....set seed about 2-3 depth of the size and water in gently, then cover with pet or light soil, tap again with the back of rake, light water then cover with a wide board for a few days. (peas and larger seeds like chard, beets) Carrots are tiny so i cast the seeds over the wet compacted row, then cover. I use light weight ship-lap siding. Any heavy rains can wash away or pop up freshly planted seeds.

March 14, 2017	#12
MuddyToes Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Delaware Posts: 234	For seeds that need to be planted shallow, like 1/8 or so, I sometimes just water the soil well, cast the seeds on top and then watch closely for several days. When I see germination, I sprinkle some fine soil overtop and water again to keep the new sprouts moist. Another trick I learned at the Mother Earth News Fair is to use row cover directly over the seeds instead of a fine soil layer. When the roots start moving into the soil, I can remove the row cover and add soil as needed. I use this method for lettuce and other greens with small seeds. I have found that orach doesn't like to be covered at all. For bigger seeds likes peas, beans, and squash, I follow the rule: plant one to two lengths of the seed deep. For tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, I used Craig's method these past couple weeks with very good success. Thanks, Craig!