Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 12, 2017 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago, IL ., Z5b
Posts: 19
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Seedlings are not growing
Hi folks, I need some advice. I started my tomato and pepper seeds on March 21 in a different brand of peat pellets (McKenzie brand) than I usually use which is Jiffy brand. It seems it took longer than usual for the seeds to germinate and EVERY SINGLE ONE came up a helmet head! I don't know how many "surgeries" I've performed to remove the seed coatings! These were fresh seeds bought this year from Johnny's, Heritage and Territorial. Anyway, after two weeks of nothing but cotyledons, a lot of the tomato seedlings are barely showing any first leaves and some are starting to show signs of yellowing. Oddly, the pepper seedlings seem to be thriving. All the seedlings are well rooted but they're not growing. I can see inbetween the cotyledons that there is a microscopic hint of a leaf but otherwise no sign of vigor or growth. The most affected are three hybrids, Esterina, Sakura and Damsel. The others I have are Big Zac, Kukla's Portugese, Marge's Polish Pride, Mexico, Rebel Yell and Terhune and only some of those have a tiny leaf beginning. They just seem so puny to me.
Just for the record, I have been growing from seed for almost 20 years and never had a problem with starting seeds and growing beautiful tomato and pepper plants. I believe the culprit is the new peat pellets because they seem to be much more fibrous (almost like coconut husk) than the smooth finely ground Jiffy pellets that I've used in the past. Here's my questions, 1) would it be beneficial to transplant them now into good potting mix even though they don't have their first leaves or 2)should I feed them lightly for a booster or 3) have I developed amnesia over the course of winter and forgotten how long it takes for seedlings to grow! |
April 12, 2017 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I'd transplant into new media, especially since you think the current media is the culprit.
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April 12, 2017 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Warm and getting plenty of light? After they sprout I get best results with temps mid 70's and 24/7 lights till 2 weeks. I pot up in 4" at about 2wks and move them to something like 16hr light/ 8hr dark.
Coir is bad about helmet heads, a fact. However, the slowed growth is probably more attributable to light, temperature, and moisture. |
April 13, 2017 | #4 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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Allura, I have never potted up before the plants have their first real leaves. I'm not sure if that would matter or not?
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April 13, 2017 | #5 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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It's possible that the nitrogen is way too low compared to other nutrients. Microbes might be using the existing nitrogen to help decompose something in the pellets. Adding nitrogen is dangerous at this stage, though, if you want every plant to live. The pH might be off, as an alternative. Maybe it's just too porous. I don't know, but those are some guesses. I had a similar issue, sans the helmet heads, when I used a sort of bagged outdoor garden soil to start some peppers in indoors (it had a lot of wood chips in it). Repotting would probably be great if they'll survive.
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April 13, 2017 | #6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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I transplanted a couple into the ground. It was too late in the season for me to want to keep them in the greenhouse. One survived, and ended up being quite virgorous and prolific, if later than it would have been (it was a Sweet Orange Cherry plant that took probably two months to germinate). The other, Mule Team, didn't fair as well, but I think that was because of the soil, as several tomatoes struggled on that strip of land.
Last edited by shule1; April 13, 2017 at 12:20 AM. |
April 13, 2017 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Just my opinion, and near 20 yrs as well...I've also had good success without incident
most of those years. When something feels a bit off, slow growth, different soil start mix, I immediately start another tray. I have lots of seeds, saved, traded, and purchased. Calms my nerves to have insurance. At least i have a comparison by starting another tray a couple weeks later after starting a tray or two early. Even a trusted clean starting mix can change over the years. I don't trust any so have a few options on hand. A few years ago i had a known potting up mix that turned to cement and knew right away. Changed the mix and compared. But left a few to see what would happen.... Trust your instincts and start another tray. Keep the one going that seems off. Another issue is in a new mix/pot, just a tiny bit too deep will slow growth by 5-7 days. When i was working many more hours than now, i had no time to check and worry. All went well having no time. The 'watched pot' theory. Patience and standing back without fussing and watching.... (i still start some back-up seedlings) |
April 13, 2017 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Indianapolis Area 46112
Posts: 857
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i have also what i believe to be "helmet head" and i am new at this with no more seed of these varieties can i try a "surgery" and how do you do it?
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April 13, 2017 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago, IL ., Z5b
Posts: 19
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Thank you to all that replied so quickly, I don't normally post because I'm so awkward in expressing myself in written form (my opening post took almost 2 hours to compose, lol) but I know that the members on Tomatoville are both knowledgeable and helpful and could give me good advice.
As far as growing conditions, I use a heat mat to germinate the seeds, lights are on for 16 hrs. a day and average house temp is 68 day/66 night. As soon as germination occurs I take the seedling out of the greenhouse and keep it under lights 2" from the top. This has been my modus operandi and it always worked but not so much this time around. ALittleSalt, I too have never transplanted before 1st leaves therefore I'm hesitant for fear of possibly setting them back by a week or so as Oakley mentioned or at the very worst, killing them. I've decided to get some Jiffy pellets tomorrow and start a few more seeds. Hopefully, it's not too late and I'll have something to plant by the end of May. Oakley, I'm afraid I may strongly resemble your last paragraph! |
April 13, 2017 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago, IL ., Z5b
Posts: 19
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tryno12, the "surgery" I performed on the helmet heads is something I learned by reading posts from the wonderful Carolyn Male and her "spit method". Take a little saliva/spit and put it on the helmet head seed and let it sit for awhile, the enzymes in your saliva soften the seed coat and then it's easier for the seedling to break free or you can assist the removal with a pair of tweezers very gently so as not to rip the cotyledons. That is the way I understand it and it works!
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April 13, 2017 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Utah
Posts: 18
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I used the parkseed biodome for the first time this year and had the same problem. After three weeks, the true leaves still had not appeared. I finally decided that transplanting them before seeing the true leaves couldn't make things any worse. I transplanted them all into potting soil and they took off like a rocket. All of the seedlings survived with no harm that I can see.
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April 13, 2017 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,825
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For ultimate helmet head surgery, two pointy tweezers and a third hand holding a magnifying glass have proven most effective for me. But often, if you keep the helmet moist the cots will work their way out.
Next time plant a little deeper. I go to 1/2".
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