Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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#31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I'm leery of the tractor supply stuff.
To me it is mostly just junk made in China. The steel is of poor quality weak and rusts out fast compared to the old T posts of yore made in the US. Worth |
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#32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Yeah, Worth, I hear you on the quality thing. But, I figure it this way. I'm not building a fence and I ain't constructing any bridges. Even that Chinese Junk (pun intended) will hold up a tomato plant.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
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#33 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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All of mine are from there from a long time ago. They dont sell that brand anymore. My idea on a T post is a ten foot one if you can afford them. ![]() Mine are still up from last year and will stay up. 1 Inch EMT conduit 10 feet long is about 2/3 the price of a ten foot T post. |
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#34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,836
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What about using a cordless drill with a bulb auger bit (for planting flower bulbs). That should almost get them 1 foot in the ground, then drive them in the other foot.
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#35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,940
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#36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Don't ask more of a cordless drill than they can deliver.
Not a bad idea but be easy on it Some of the more high powered ones like mine will break your wrist if you are not careful. This is why I always use the clutch settings. My big 120 drill has an extra handle because it will hurt you big time. Worth |
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#37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,497
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Check for irrigation/electrical conduits,Seems like you always hit one when augering.
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KURT |
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#38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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#39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Zone 6
Posts: 92
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Update on how I did it.
Banged these electric fence posts (http://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGARD-...183A/202025622) a foot or two with post slammer. The cavity on decent sized culms is larger than the girth of the circular post, so the culms slide right over. Nothing really holding the culm in place but gravity and ~3 feet of steel post in the cavity, but it seems to be fairly stable for a 6ft-7ft culm - anything more it might be too wobbly. Anyway, culms just touch the ground, never into the ground, and I'll probably keep mulch in between them and the soil. Hopefully this extends their useful life for at least a couple of seasons! Those posts are cheap and the method was pain-free. |
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#40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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My grandmother had a 'thing' for making holes for stakes (we used quite high stakes for beans) made from a railway track, about 1.2 meters long, made pointy at the end (not sure who did it, it was quite nicely made). The thing was gosh darnoodley heavy.
The thing is, the heavier, the better actually. My aunt had a much punier one, and even though it was much easier to use, it was so much slower to make the holes that it was actually way worse (and you had to use as much force you could to push it down). The rail track did everything by gravitation and not much force otherwise necessary. |
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#41 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
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