Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 14, 2006 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Should I pinch the blooms?
I transplanted New Big Dwarf, Lime Green Salad, and Golden Dwarf Champion in containers this past Tuesday. NBD and LGS are getting bloom trusses already. Should they be pinched off or just let them go?
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April 14, 2006 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Long Beach, Calif
Posts: 144
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Hello
You left out some info which would help answer your question. In general the plant does 1 thing, make roots stems leaves, or fruits. Is the container its perminant home? Is the weather good? Is the plant big? I would pinch blossoms to get better plant size, heath before letting fruit set. Wild "?" Life |
April 15, 2006 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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c., don't pinch. Not necessary in our climate.
And you do want them to have a chance to set fruit before it gets too hot. I might occasionally pinch if there are blooms at the time of transplant (like just maybe if it's a little bitty six inch plant or something) -- but certainly not if they form *after* transplanting. |
April 15, 2006 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Long Beach, Calif
Posts: 144
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pinch them
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April 15, 2006 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Quote:
Why the second comment? I stand by my post. We're already consistently up into the 80's and 90's here (unfortunately). The last thing he wants to do is pinch blooms at this point, especially on transplants that have already been set. |
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April 15, 2006 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Warm Springs, GA
Posts: 1,421
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I am with Suze. It is so important to get that fruit set now as the heat comes on so fast its feast or famine Most important with those large blossoms like AGG.
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April 15, 2006 | #7 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Speaking as a northener, please note that the above discussion is occuring between folks in CA and TX and GA, all long term high heat areas.
We folks in more northerly climes may do things differently. I will take off all blossoms and buds before the plants are ever set out so that initial energy goes to root and stem and foliage growth. The blossom cycle is about three weeks and those three weeks free of spending plant energy for sexual processes instead of vegetative processes really can make a difference, at least to some of us. Back in the GW place there has been thread after thread about this, some initiated by Earl, who as I recall , likes to leave some blossoms on young plants. Whatever, say I. I and MY plants will do just fine without having the very first fruits that would come sooner had blossoms and buds not been removed and there are those who say it doesn't make any difference. So try things out yourselves and see what works best for you where you live and also depending on you own personal choice. You can't kill the darn plants, as well you know, so experiment.
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Carolyn |
April 16, 2006 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oz
Posts: 1,241
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I live in a climate that gets very hot and I like to leave all buds on. That being said, I have grown Cherokee Purple the last two years and both plants have set a large first truss of fruit then shut down. This coming spring I am going to prune the CP's first truss back to one or two flowers and see what difference that makes.
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April 17, 2006 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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I now have an Aunt Ginnys Purple and Pruden's Purple with a truss each. They have been in the ground only a week. I was thinking like Suze, because the weather has been very warm (99) today. But the high pressure is supposed to move east Tuesday, and give us cooler weather. You never know here when you will all of a sudden get 90+ for 3 or more days. I will experiment, as there is always the fall crop if I mess this one up.
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