Bacterial Disease Fixes and Preventatives

[chalstonsc]

I understand Actinovate and Mycogrow primarily work against fungal diseases and are pretty effective.

What of a similar, non-toxic kind is(are) the premier anti-bacterial disease tools for tomato growers?

Thanks.

[bigbubbacain]

Originally Posted by chalstonsc

I understand Actinovate and Mycogrow primarily work against fungal diseases and are pretty effective.

What of a similar, non-toxic kind is(are) the premier anti-bacterial disease tools for tomato growers?

Thanks.

That all depends on who you ask. I'd read the label well on some of these products and see how comprehensive their listing organism is. Actinovate is only one strain, but it has a very specific purpose. AmiDeutch is a huge proponent of Actinovate, and rightly so because it's a terriffic product. I spoke one day with the manufacturer of Actinovate and got a brief run down of how the different bio-products work. I'll rely on AmiDeutch and someone more informed to correct me if I'm wrong because this is probably an over-simplistic explanation, but in a nutshell, this is what I was told:

Certain Mycorrhizae extend the root networks of plants to make more nutrition and water available to plants.

Streptomyces acts as a contact medicine to combat the various disease issues. (think Streptomycin, we've all taken it for one illness or another)

Trichoderma acts as a vaccine in the root zone and reduces the prevalence of the soil borne pathogens.

One last consideration: If you buy online you have no control as to how your supplier stores these products. I buy locally when I can and I feel better knowing that I buy from someone who keeps these products at a controlled temperature. most of these products are stable until opened and then you need to keep them in a cool place.

[RonnyWil]

Hydrogen peroxide.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by RonnyWil

Hydrogen peroxide.

At what strength do you apply it? I have used it once taking standard over the counter product 3% and diluting 10 to 1 but could see no response from the foliage diseases. Do you need to apply it several times to get results or is my solution too weak. I am using it after planting seed and it does seem to help with damping off.

[mensplace]

After mistakenly mixing Sevin and another product to fight diseases I immediately saw the impact of phytotoxicity on my peaches and my pumpkins. Both recovered, but not before seeing pumpkin leaves that became triangular in shape, with all of the water carrying "veins" growing straight out from one central point, much like in a river delta. Fortunately, I had not used enough to kill the plants, as they recovered after a few weeks and returned to a normal leaf pattern on the newer leaves. However, that illustrated to me that everything sprayed on the garden may well have negatives as well as positives. For example, insecticides may well kill the damaging insects, but it also kills the worm population. Might the products that serve as fungicides also kill the positive fungi and products that kill bad nematodes also kill the beneficial nematodes or those that fight bacteria based diseases also kill positive bacterium? Maybe I should be seeking cabbage moth traps with pheromens to lure them and not sprays. For the most part, I have been seeking synergistic approaches using the best or most helpful, positive approaches to gardening wherein moderation such as in an IPM system limits how much and how often things are added to the garden, but it seems that virtually everything added to the mix has at least the ability to throw stasis into chaos. So, do I just surrender to the negatives of infestations and let nature take its course or try to always consider that anything added to the garden must be considered in terms of the negatives as well as the positives? IF I spray with insecticdes I see the dead lady bugs along with the targeted species, but if I do not spray I may as well not even try to grow certain crops. In adding microrganisms and positive fungi, do I then risk killing them with the many disease and fungi sprays that are available. I have worked hard to build earthworm populations, but they too are killed by spraying. I have tried various organic mixes and home concocted sprays, but the moths seem to love them. What IS the middle ground appoach? Insects, blights, fungi WILL come if left untreated, but in treating them I'm afraid of also undoing the very balance both in the soil and above ground that I have worked so hard to achieve. Going around searching for eggs and specific insects is simply not practical and the cost of beneficial insects is prohibitive. I have searched for pesticides with the least potential for residual damage, but simply not found them, maybe because they have so long been sprayed locally and developed resistance. Even if I skipped growing potatoes, cabbages and similar plants , that would still leave the tomatoes, peppers and others that I DO want.

[dustdevil]

Genetics are passed down thru the seed...this includes resistance to pathogens. If you fight all bacteria, viruses, etc. with wonder cures, won't you be creating future generations of "Bubble Boy" heirloom tomatoes with no pathogen/disease resistance? I believe in saving seed from plants that exhibit some natural resistance to adversity and "improving" the variety.

[bigbubbacain]

Originally Posted by dustdevil

I believe in saving seed from plants that exhibit some natural resistance to adversity and "improving" the variety.

Therein lies the ultimate solution, but the conclusions reached this way are usually one year out because I've got to grow new varieties to see which ones display any particular strengths. Otherwise, I could grow the same thing year after year but where's the fun in that? I don't know if we're necessarily creating "bubble boy" tomatoes because we're fortifying the soil with organisms that are already present to some degree. When these products are applied to the foliage, they address the actual disease.

[bohica]

One last consideration: If you buy online you have no control as to how your supplier stores these products. I buy locally when I can and I feel better knowing that I buy from someone who keeps these products at a controlled temperature. most of these products are stable until opened and then you need to keep them in a cool place.

I agree to a certian degree, temperature is only one aspect that you should look for, you have to be very aware of any and all expiration dates, Rootshield/Tricoderma has a 6 month shelf life, some feel that placing it in the freezer will extend that life, maybe so, but for the price you pay, get it fresh.
Actinovate has a 1 yr shelf life.
Mycorrhiza has a 2 yr shelf life, after that it degrades by 20% min each year.
Mycorrhiza is one of my pet peeves, it has to be the one product that I will not grow without, but there are too many companies out there selling flat out garbage. I have spent a few years testing different varieties out and talking in depth with various agronomist and experts, and I do believe that the RTI line is by far the best, I would be happy to share independant test results.
Alot of Mycorr has super low spore counts, others have ecto (for woody plants and trees) and Endo (for most plants) mixed together, and I even came across one that was loaded with starter fertilizer and Phos, this particular brand did very well in tests for the first two weeks and then plants fell behind.
I have seen local stores store these products a long long time, I've even seen local stores storing Worm castings in freezing warehouses or outside all winter long and sell it as fresh the following spring.
Lets face it, find a reputable reseller or you could be buying garbage.
I would look for a retailer that cannot keep these products on the shelves, a good turn over is indicative that fresh product will be purchased.
I won't restock Rootshield or Actinovate now, anyone who buys after we run out will have to wait an additional 3 days as we will order it fresh per order. Our Mycorrhiza inventory will run fairly low, I will purchase smaller amounts and keep fresh product on our shelves, I will let the Liquid Companion and the Granular Companion run low as well.
Be very aware of who you buy from or you can end up purchasing garbage.

[b54red]

bohica since you seem very knowledgeable maybe you can answer a question I posed on the disease thread. What is the best product to prevent fusarium wilt or at least slow it down besides planting resistant varieties? Also where can you order it from?

[RonnyWil]

Originally Posted by b54red

At what strength do you apply it? I have used it once taking standard over the counter product 3% and diluting 10 to 1 but could see no response from the foliage diseases. Do you need to apply it several times to get results or is my solution too weak. I am using it after planting seed and it does seem to help with damping off.

I mix 3% 10 to 1, stronger if I have any problems. Peroxide does not cure disease but it helps keep it from starting or spreading.

[bohica]

Fusarium is a beast to control, once it is there, it can last 15 years...
Fusarium can be prevented and or controlled using the following:
Actinovate - I use the Lawn and Garden
Rootshield - I use the granular
Companion - I sue the liquid and the Granular
I feel that having a strong root structure will help the plant resist disease longer, while it will not fight fusarium, I would have to recommend Mycorrhiza.
Having a proactive approach is the best way to avoid Fusarium.
You can order them from us, click the links and it will bring you to the item.
Tom

[chalstonsc]

Everyone,
Thanks!