Trying "Earl's Method" on plant out (pics)

Quietman · May 26, 2010

First let me say that I've spent the last five days reading most of the messages (over 97 pages) in the General Discussion group. I'm incredibly impressed with the level of expertise and honesty from all the community members. I'm also glad to see that folks here can agree to disagree in a cordial manner!

I decided to adopt "Earl's Method" for my plants in my raised garden beds. I amended them last spring with several types of compost, sand and peat. I want to carefully point out the description below is based on Earl's original method, for which he deserves full credit.

Ok, I only have five plants (two Beefmaster, 2 Jetstar, one Red Fig), but that's more than I think I'll need. Depending on my results this year, I may add more next year.

I invite any comments or suggestions folks might have. I know some people will suggest further spacing, but thisis the room I have. I also know others may warn me of the impending spider mite doom for foolishly adding marigolds to my beds (I have not seen them in the last 4-5 years of gardening). So here we go!

Step One: Identify the location

IMG_1505.jpg

Step Two: Dig a hole

In Earl's method, he does indicate 24" across, but not a depth, so I assumed six inches was sufficient, but could be wrong!

IMG_1506.jpg

Step Three: Prepare Amendments

Because I amended deeply in the early spring, I placed the hole diggin's in a wheelbarrow, added several large scoops of compost/manure (local stuff called "Garden Magic", but may be the best commercial compost I've ever seen), a scoop of peat, 2/3 cup of Tomato Tone (the GOOD stuff!), 1/3 cup of Epson Salts, 1/3 cup of bone meal and 1/3 cup of gardening lime (slight modification here).

IMG_1508.jpg

Step Four: Re-install diggin's

After mixing completely in the wheelbarrow, return enriched diggin's to hole. Use a garden fork to mix thoroughly into bottom and sides of hole

IMG_1512.jpg

All done with this step!

IMG_1513.jpg

Step Five: Plant the Tomato Plant!

I've planted the seedling about 6 inches deep, stripping off the lower leaves. I've formed a water basin around it in the soil surface.

IMG_1515.jpg

Step Six: Mulch and water In

I mulched the seedling with straw, side dressed with a light application of Tomato Tone, and watered thoroughly.

IMG_1516.jpg

REPEAT FOR REMAINING PLANTS

All done, finally!

IMG_1518.jpg

I thought about waiting on the mulch, but our weather has been in the 80's the last five days (before planting) and seedlings have been hardening off for the last two weeks. I completed my plant out about 8:30pm to try and minimize transplant shock. They looked pretty good the following day.

Any comments or suggestions are invited! And again, I wanted to thank Earl for posting his method, it's given me confidence (after a marginal tomato experience last year).

Quietman

**mdvpc** · May 27, 2010

Hopefully, Earl will bless your plantings! Looks very good to me.

geeboss · May 27, 2010

I'm definitely a believer in Earl's method mater plant needs to be able to stretch its roots freely and your off to a great start this season. Enjoy that first BLT and toast a tall one to Earl and his insight.

George

creister · May 27, 2010

I haven't read those posts in a while (Earl's method), so what is the peat moss for? I know a few organic specialists are turning away from peat because it does not promote bateria growth (look at all the preserved bodies/artifacts found in peat bogs) and doesn't hold minerals as well as compost or coconut coir.

hasshoes · May 31, 2010

It needs to be composted peat humus, not peat moss.

This:

Not this:

It is used to fluff up the soil. Most people believe tomato roots prefer loose, fluffy soil. I think it helps prevent issues that lead to things like BER. I use peat humus and have never had BER even in the wettest years.

hasshoes · May 31, 2010

Ps- also be on the lookout for grey mold on your marigolds. It can easily spread to your tomatoes and devastate your plants, once they get hit there's not much you can do. You'll get tomatoes but they'll most likely taste horrible.

Hopefully though this will be nice summer and we we won't be plagued with the problems of cold wet weather.

May 26, 2010	#1
Quietman Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2010 Location: Montville, OH Posts: 29	Trying "Earl's Method" on plant out (pics) First let me say that I've spent the last five days reading most of the messages (over 97 pages) in the General Discussion group. I'm incredibly impressed with the level of expertise and honesty from all the community members. I'm also glad to see that folks here can agree to disagree in a cordial manner! I decided to adopt "Earl's Method" for my plants in my raised garden beds. I amended them last spring with several types of compost, sand and peat. I want to carefully point out the description below is based on Earl's original method, for which he deserves full credit. Ok, I only have five plants (two Beefmaster, 2 Jetstar, one Red Fig), but that's more than I think I'll need. Depending on my results this year, I may add more next year. I invite any comments or suggestions folks might have. I know some people will suggest further spacing, but thisis the room I have. I also know others may warn me of the impending spider mite doom for foolishly adding marigolds to my beds (I have not seen them in the last 4-5 years of gardening). So here we go! Step One: Identify the location IMG_1505.jpg Step Two: Dig a hole In Earl's method, he does indicate 24" across, but not a depth, so I assumed six inches was sufficient, but could be wrong! IMG_1506.jpg Step Three: Prepare Amendments Because I amended deeply in the early spring, I placed the hole diggin's in a wheelbarrow, added several large scoops of compost/manure (local stuff called "Garden Magic", but may be the best commercial compost I've ever seen), a scoop of peat, 2/3 cup of Tomato Tone (the GOOD stuff!), 1/3 cup of Epson Salts, 1/3 cup of bone meal and 1/3 cup of gardening lime (slight modification here). IMG_1508.jpg Step Four: Re-install diggin's After mixing completely in the wheelbarrow, return enriched diggin's to hole. Use a garden fork to mix thoroughly into bottom and sides of hole IMG_1512.jpg All done with this step! IMG_1513.jpg Step Five: Plant the Tomato Plant! I've planted the seedling about 6 inches deep, stripping off the lower leaves. I've formed a water basin around it in the soil surface. IMG_1515.jpg Step Six: Mulch and water In I mulched the seedling with straw, side dressed with a light application of Tomato Tone, and watered thoroughly. IMG_1516.jpg REPEAT FOR REMAINING PLANTS All done, finally! IMG_1518.jpg I thought about waiting on the mulch, but our weather has been in the 80's the last five days (before planting) and seedlings have been hardening off for the last two weeks. I completed my plant out about 8:30pm to try and minimize transplant shock. They looked pretty good the following day. Any comments or suggestions are invited! And again, I wanted to thank Earl for posting his method, it's given me confidence (after a marginal tomato experience last year). Quietman Last edited by Quietman; May 27, 2010 at 05:25 AM. Reason: Fix some spelling stuff

May 27, 2010	#2
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Hopefully, Earl will bless your plantings! Looks very good to me. __________________ Michael

May 31, 2010	#5
hasshoes Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: MT Posts: 438	It needs to be composted peat humus, not peat moss. This: Not this: It is used to fluff up the soil. Most people believe tomato roots prefer loose, fluffy soil. I think it helps prevent issues that lead to things like BER. I use peat humus and have never had BER even in the wettest years. __________________ Sara Last edited by hasshoes; May 31, 2010 at 03:30 PM. Reason: adding

May 31, 2010	#6
hasshoes Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: MT Posts: 438	Ps- also be on the lookout for grey mold on your marigolds. It can easily spread to your tomatoes and devastate your plants, once they get hit there's not much you can do. You'll get tomatoes but they'll most likely taste horrible. Hopefully though this will be nice summer and we we won't be plagued with the problems of cold wet weather. __________________ Sara

May 27, 2010	#3
geeboss Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairfax, VA Z7 Posts: 524	I'm definitely a believer in Earl's method mater plant needs to be able to stretch its roots freely and your off to a great start this season. Enjoy that first BLT and toast a tall one to Earl and his insight. George

May 27, 2010	#4
creister Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Abilene, TX zone 7 Posts: 1,478	I haven't read those posts in a while (Earl's method), so what is the peat moss for? I know a few organic specialists are turning away from peat because it does not promote bateria growth (look at all the preserved bodies/artifacts found in peat bogs) and doesn't hold minerals as well as compost or coconut coir.