Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 26, 2011 | #1 |
Tomatoville Honoree
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 460
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A "How To" for Building Raised Beds
My wife sent this link to me and I am pleased to pass along for your information. Enjoy and Happy Gardening to us all!
Gary http://thepioneerwoman.com/homeandga...vegetable-bed/
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"We believe we mere debtors to God in relation to each other and all men, to improve our Time and Talents in this Life, in that manner in which we might be most useful." Shaker Covenant 1795 |
May 26, 2011 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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...and she cooks, too.
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May 26, 2011 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 78
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My wife LOVES the Pioneer Woman! And I can't complain because she has some darn good recipes on her site. I have to admit, I even get a kick out of some of her posts as well.... Seems to be a very talented lady.
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May 27, 2011 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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One thing that I would do differently is to put the support stakes on the outside of the bed so that when tilling inside the beds the tiller blades don't hit them. It might not look quite as neat but it will save time when tilling and the support stakes will hold up longer. I would also use much heavier stakes because of the force exerted by the swelling and drying of the main boards is very powerful and can actually break the steaks if they are firmly attached.
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May 27, 2011 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Western NY
Posts: 38
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Great site! Thanks for the link.
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May 27, 2011 | #6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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On my last two beds, I used pressure treated 2" X 12" lumber. Todays pressure treated lumber is treated with copper sulphide and is totally safe. I used galvanized steel corner brackets with the screws driven into the brackets and wood at each corner on the inside of the frame instead of the outside. The root crops like carrots seem to appreciate the deeper beds.
Ted |
May 27, 2011 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 176
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My sister used her directions to create her raised bed, and was happy with them. My husband loves her recipes - I think he and my sis read her blog more than I do.
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May 27, 2011 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kansas CIty
Posts: 560
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Ummm...Ree Drummond...the Pioneer Woman...makes it WAY too complicated.
Check out my blog for a simpler way to do this: RAISED BEDS MADE EASY Just an FYI...The Pioneer woman is extremely wealthy, has hired house keepers and landscapers to do most of her work. She married into one of the wealthiest families in Oklahoma.
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May 27, 2011 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 78
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Quote:
I would agree with you that her raised bed methods have room for improvement. |
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November 23, 2011 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 116
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This looks simple enough that even a tool tard like me can do it.
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November 23, 2011 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alpine, Calif. in winter. Sandpoint Lake, Ont. Canada summers
Posts: 850
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I find a major flaw in her plans and the one from Huntoften doesn't specify. I don't have
any phillips or flat head screws in my tool room here or in Canada. THEY ARE NOT ALLOWED!! I have only square drive or star drive screws and feel the others should be outlawed as they strip out easily. The latter two can be driven right on through a 2X4 and they won't strip out. I know.....picky, picky, but when far superior products are available, recommend them. |
November 23, 2011 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alpine, Calif. in winter. Sandpoint Lake, Ont. Canada summers
Posts: 850
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Am I the only one like this. In looking at the pic of Huntoften's framed raised bed w/o the
dirt, I get heart palpitations. I don't know why, but I just love the idea of creating/mixing my own soil to my specifications. I guess I experience some of the excitement that farmers in the Red River Valley of MN/ND would experience when the soil was first turned in' the spring. They would almost get teery eyed and claimed they could smell it. My formula keeps changing, but, good or bad, it is my potion, my dirt, my soil and my joy. Here in the San Diego area, the soil companies sell what they call Lakeside loam. That is a major ingredient (like flour for a cake), hefty doses of composted manure,, bone meal, crushed oyster shells, perlite, vermiculite and then variables depending on crops. Yeah, I mix it all with a shovel in that I LOVE to play in it. Hey, there is nothing wrong with me that a good shrink can't fix. |
November 23, 2011 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 116
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I'm wondering what you do if there's a gap at one end of the bed....like the one in her pictures. The one end of it doesn't sit flush with the ground.
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November 24, 2011 | #14 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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This is a photo of three of my eight raised beds. The tall T stakes hold my tomato plants up similar to the Florida weave method.
Some of my beds are constructed with pressure treated landscape timbers held together with long spikes. The others are constructed of 2" X 12" pressure treated lumber with steel brackets holding them together at the corners. (chemicals currently used for pressure treating wood is not environmentally harmful. Since it is primarily a copper solution, I am happy if it leaches from the wood into the soil.) After constructing the frames, I use a carpenters level and small stones under them to level them. Since my land slopes toward a large lake, one end of each bed is always higher after leveling. When the soil fills the beds, it seals the raised end without a problem. I always enjoy reworking the soil in my beds each winter. I don't design the soil to support plant life. My soil amendments are more intended to support a good earth worm population. I've always believed that soil which supports earth worms well, will also support plant growth well. My soil mixture is probably 50% topsoil with the remainder being compost and other organics. I use a lot of alfalfa pellets added to the soil each winter and mixed thoroughly. By the end of a growing season, most of the organics have been consumed by the earth worms and plants and the soil levels have dropped by two or three inches in each bed. This provides room to add the additional organics to each bed in the fall. I once let someone convince me to simply add the organics to the top of each bed and let the nutrients percolate down through the soil. This method resulted in stratophied beds with organics on top and mud at the bottom. I now mix the new organics into the soil each fall. The earth worms seem to prefer the thorough mixing. I don't know if my methods agree with the experts, but it works for me. Ted |
November 24, 2011 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 116
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That looks good.
How tall are those fence posts?? |
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