Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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July 13, 2006 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Something I can speak from experience on!
That splitting (not really cracking per-se) looks to be from excess rain as the tomato is finishing up. If it really bugs you, tarp. Speaking of bugs, split tomatoes invite them. If you have tomatoes that are blushing pretty good and the skies are about to open up, harvest! They'll ripen up on your windowsill. I got so screwed by torrential rains in June and early July of this year that I am erecting a PVC framework over every one of my raised beds with roll-up clear plastic so I can do a partial greenhouse (With a couple of feet of breezeway at the bottom) to keep from having to build an Ark for my tomatoes.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
July 13, 2006 | #2 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 130
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Feldon dear - what is it with you and tarping? I don't think you're thinking it through from a logical pov. |
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July 13, 2006 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Oh dear, my editor-in-chief has followed me here from that other (upturned nose) forum.
Ok, tarps are opaque which sorta limits sunlight a bit, but when someone asks "what do I do about excess rain?" the answer is mulch and wait. I'm just incredulous by the idea of accepting partial or total loss of their garden just because guy upstairs decides to dump 10 inches of rain in 10 hours. Keeping rain out of a garden isn't THAT hard. Torrential rains seem to happen about every other June in Houston. June 2001 was Allison, a 100 year flood event for Houston. Took me 10 minutes to find a good picture of what I intend to do... Plans
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
July 13, 2006 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 174
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I didn't say anything about it bugging me, I didn't get out there to harvest them so they cracked. shrug I didn't notice any change in the taste due to it.
I was rather sick for a few days, I couldn't get out to check the tomatoes let alone put up a tarp Tarping my tomatoes would be a HUGE mistake, with the storm drain right behind them I have enough problems with fungal diseases without creating a humid hothouse for them. Back to Harvesting please |
July 13, 2006 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 130
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Followed you here? Pleeze... 8)
I think greenhouses are fantastic. I plan to get one. "Choose a level, well-drained plot for the greenhouse." Drainage is part of your problem. You haven't addressed your drainage issue. Water is going to run off the side. Where is it going? I suspect it will hit the ground. So you'll be keeping water from hitting the plants and landing directly into the bed, but you won't be solving anything. Diverting the water off to the sides of the beds isn't a solution. In CIMG0771-barrier.jpg how much of the plastic did you cut out of the bottom of the bed? |
July 13, 2006 | #6 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I apologize to JBinKC for going completely off-topic and sabotaging his thread.
Quote:
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After ripping everything out in the past days, I moved all the soil to one side, extracted the black barrier, moved the soil to the other side, and extracted the remainder of that black weed barrier. I am then replacing the landscaping timbers with 12" high lumber (either two 2 x 6 or one 2 x 12) and changing it from a single 6' wide bed to two 3' wide beds. The new plan. Due to significant image distortion, it is impossible to tell the scale of anything in that picture. All four of the 'long' beds are 16'. Spacing Chart for Fall Beds
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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July 13, 2006 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 130
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Feldon - You were trapping water in the bed. Drainage. Think about it. How was all that water suppose to get pass the plastic?
My apologies too, JBinKC et al. I'll let it go. Maybe someone can delete these messages out of the thread. |
July 13, 2006 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Topic split -- carry on.
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July 13, 2006 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: S. FLorida / Zone 10
Posts: 369
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Tarp away if you want to. Shelters from rain are not something unheard of.
http://www.avrdc.org/LC/tomato/shelter.pdf I would only do ONE and compare the results with other plants left to fend for themselves.
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"When we kill off the natural enemies of a pest we inherit their work." Carl Huffaker |
July 14, 2006 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
I guess unless you come to Houston you will not experience torrential rains so cold and fast it hurts to be out in it and that last for 12 HOURS straight. Every square inch of the plants gets coated with bits of soil. Any soilborne disease takes up lodgings in the tomato plants and fruit. Straw will help, but there is only so much that can do. Just diverting the water will help significantly I think. I can always dig a deeper trench at the back of the yard and put rocks or a drainage tube. The main garden has a noticeable slope which I have already used to my advantage in the past by digging a trench and getting the water to drain from the garden (It comes out between the cracks in the landscape timbers). Out of 9 watermelon plants and 1 canteloupe plant, so far I have gotten 2 decent (but watery) canteloupes, 3 split watermelons, 2 rotten WMs, 2 underripe WMs that split (one when I rapped on it with a knuckle), and 1 watermelon actually worth eating. Still hoping on the last 2 WMs although almost all the wm vines are dead or dying so I don't know how that bodes for what's left. For about a week there last month, I thought I'd been transported to Seattle. Not more than 6 hours went by without some measurable precipitation. I tarped the melon patch when I could but didn't want to completely block the sun for 5 days straight. That's what the clear plastic partial covers are for. Based on my results this year I'm tempted to just deal with the roadside stand down the road that is always loaded with both seedless and seeded watermelons from June on. He actually had 4 massive Black Diamond melons there. I should have grabbed it instead of the insipid yellow-fleshed one I got.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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July 14, 2006 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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July 14, 2006 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Oz
Posts: 1,241
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Go with your ideas Feldon. I have aired my ideas on threads here and there and been told I was an idiot. Well, I grow some pretty nice tomatoes in my homemade greenhouse and pots and things. I thought my idea of growing tomatoes in bottomless black plastic pots was my own until I came across another on this very site who does the same. He also swears by the method.
If you reckon your on a winner. Go for it. If it stuffs up , don't tell anyone |
July 14, 2006 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coasty
Posts: 964
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Feldon,
There are better things than tarps. I would look into the UV resistant Poly films being used for greenhouses these days. They will last 2 to 3 years in sunlight. They also stand up to torrential rain and snow (so says my sisters year round SunGolds in Humboldt County, CA). She has hers stretched over a cheap portable garage frame from Grand Auto. Better light transmission and better heat gain. As for drainage, I am a big beleiver in putting a 6" layer of drain rock into the bottom of any raised bed of pot to insure getting water away from the soil in the event of any deluge. hat would be one layer of drain fabric (not weed barrier), 6" drain rock, another layer of drain fabric and then soil of your choice. That was a huge bummer about your plant loss, hope your new idea works.
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Lets see...$10 for Worth and $5 for Fusion, man. Tomatoes are expensive! Bob |
July 14, 2006 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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July 14, 2006 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
If we get someone to come out and trim back the trees there really is plenty of gardening space back there without losing the bathtub.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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