How do I force Ripening

JoeP · September 1, 2011

I read in a recent thread(s) that root pruning (but not topping) will force the plants to ripen the existing fruits.

So my questions are:

Water - To what extent do I withhold water? Completely cut off water or only water a small amount less often?
Small Fruit - Will root pruning prevent the small fruit from getting any larger?
Should I remove the smallest fruits and all flowers?
Will removing the smallest fruit have any effect on the size or ripening of the larger fruit (especially after topping, removing all flowers, and root pruning)?

I have root pruned, topped, removed all flowers, and pruned back most new growth and some small tomatoes. I am hoping to be overrun with tomatoes soon.

I am sure this has been covered before so links to previous threads is appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

travis · September 1, 2011

The reason I suggested root pruning is because in the presence of intense sun, high heat, or drought conditions, severely topping the tomato plants will expose the tomatoes to sun scald. That may not be a problem in your region.

The root pruning is simply a matter of taking a spade and severing the feeder roots in a circle around the base of the plant. Don't get too close to the plant, maybe 8 inches or so from the point of vine emergence. This may expose the still growing smaller green tomatoes to suffer BER because you are interupting uptake of calcium. But I was just addressing the hastened ripening of fully developed, green tomatoes like the ones nearing green ripe stage but not yet showing signs of breaking blush.

Small fruit that fail to develop to breaker stage can be used for chow chow, fried green, or some other kitchen use, or fed to the deer.

**carolyn137** · September 1, 2011

I've been answering the same question elsewhere and agree with what Travis has said above.

At one place the person said to root prune only on three sides and when I asked why she said it would kill the plant to sever the rootlets completely around theplant. Nope, not true.

Remember that you're severing only the top feeder rootlets but not the deeper roots, so life goes on with the plant.

Edite to add the following.

I forgot to say that for some it's easier to just pull up a bit on the plant while twisting it to break those feeder rootlets, especially if it's hard to get close enough to the main stem with the spade.

lakelady · September 3, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by carolyn137

I've been answering the same question elsewhere and agree with what Travis has said above.

At one place the person said to root prune only on three sides and when I asked why she said it would kill the plant to sever the rootlets completely around theplant. Nope, not true.

Remember that you're severing only the top feeder rootlets but not the deeper roots, so life goes on with the plant.

Edite to add the following.

I forgot to say that for some it's easier to just pull up a bit on the plant while twisting it to break those feeder rootlets, especially if it's hard to get close enough to the main stem with the spade.

Thanks Carolyn, good to know about the feeder roots !

I did try cutting some roots to force ripening 2 weeks ago, and we are still waiting

September 1, 2011	#1
JoeP Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Posts: 97	How do I force Ripening I read in a recent thread(s) that root pruning (but not topping) will force the plants to ripen the existing fruits. So my questions are: Water - To what extent do I withhold water? Completely cut off water or only water a small amount less often? Small Fruit - Will root pruning prevent the small fruit from getting any larger? Should I remove the smallest fruits and all flowers? Will removing the smallest fruit have any effect on the size or ripening of the larger fruit (especially after topping, removing all flowers, and root pruning)? I have root pruned, topped, removed all flowers, and pruned back most new growth and some small tomatoes. I am hoping to be overrun with tomatoes soon. I am sure this has been covered before so links to previous threads is appreciated. Thanks, Joe

September 1, 2011	#3
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	I've been answering the same question elsewhere and agree with what Travis has said above. At one place the person said to root prune only on three sides and when I asked why she said it would kill the plant to sever the rootlets completely around theplant. Nope, not true. Remember that you're severing only the top feeder rootlets but not the deeper roots, so life goes on with the plant. Edite to add the following. I forgot to say that for some it's easier to just pull up a bit on the plant while twisting it to break those feeder rootlets, especially if it's hard to get close enough to the main stem with the spade. __________________ Carolyn

September 1, 2011	#2
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	The reason I suggested root pruning is because in the presence of intense sun, high heat, or drought conditions, severely topping the tomato plants will expose the tomatoes to sun scald. That may not be a problem in your region. The root pruning is simply a matter of taking a spade and severing the feeder roots in a circle around the base of the plant. Don't get too close to the plant, maybe 8 inches or so from the point of vine emergence. This may expose the still growing smaller green tomatoes to suffer BER because you are interupting uptake of calcium. But I was just addressing the hastened ripening of fully developed, green tomatoes like the ones nearing green ripe stage but not yet showing signs of breaking blush. Small fruit that fail to develop to breaker stage can be used for chow chow, fried green, or some other kitchen use, or fed to the deer.