Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old November 8, 2011   #1
lakelady
Tomatovillian™
 
lakelady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
Default Are any of these particularly tall plants?

I'm working on the rest of my tomato plants for next year that won't be in my main garden. Of course i have more seeds than I can fit, so I'm narrowing down the choices at this point for next year, and the rest will have to wait until the following year. I have one more little garden spot I'm saving in case I growout any dwarfs in 2012.

There is one little spot I have that is a strip of soil, 2-3' wide (it varies from one end to the next) and about 16' long. So I am limited to what can go in there and thought I would also build some of Raybo's earthtainers to put on the walkway next to them (it's actually an old concrete shuffleboard court that I've never used and the paint has worn off so it is about 4' wide walkway). In looking at what I'd like to plant, I can fit 7 plants in the ground, and the rest in most likely 7-8 earthtainers. I can't find too much info on which plants tend to grow very tall, as those are the ones I'd like to plant in ground.

So far, I've read the Brandywines grow very tall so I have those designated for in-ground ...

In Ground:
Brandywine Cowlick
Brandywine Sudduth
Brandywine Croatia
Amazon Chocolate
Big Zac OP
?
?

Then the rest on my list for 2012 would have to go in containers, but I'd like to know if any of these typically grow very tall:

BTD Pink
BTD Heart
Black Cherry
Black from Tula
Brads Black Heart
Cherokee Purple
Cherokee Chocolate
Jaune flamme
Gary O Sena
JD Special CTex
Sandul Moldovan
Sungold F1
Paul Robeson
Fishlake Oxheart

My backup list has these also..I think Indian Stripe is one I've read usually grows quite tall
Ukranian Heart
Alice's Egypt
Kosovo
Bloody Butcher
Indian Stripe
Mule Team
Danko
Black and Brown Boar

Thanks for any feedback you can give
__________________
Antoniette
lakelady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 8, 2011   #2
kath
Tomatovillian™
 
kath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
Default

Amazon Chocolate RL was tall in my garden, but the PL version was shortish.

From your container list, Black Cherry, Gary 'OSena and Sungold F1 are tall for me.

In the backup list, Indian Stripe didn't grow tall for me, but Kosovo was quite tall.
kath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 8, 2011   #3
lakelady
Tomatovillian™
 
lakelady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
Default

lol...so you're telling me this isn't as simple as it sounds then ...I thought Kosovo grew to about 5'. It's probably very likely that no matter what I "think" will be good for containers, it very well could not. I think I read that hearts usually do well in containers. I'm just trying to hopefully keep from having a gazzillion cages with tomatoes that grow out of control, I find it easier to control my tomatoes with stakes.
__________________
Antoniette
lakelady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 8, 2011   #4
cloz
Tomatovillian™
 
cloz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Southern Connecticut
Posts: 435
Default

I grew 2 Sungold F1's this year. One in a container and one in the garden. The container one grew to between 5' and 6' and was manageable. I grew it in a 7 gal container and used a 5' high cage for it. The one in the garden grew to between 7' and 8' tall and was much larger in diameter. I only fertilized the container plant 3 times after planting and the one in the garden got the same fertilizer, however, it was planted in very rich soil with lots of composted leaves.
Cowlick, Sudduths, Black Cherry, Ctex and Paul Robeson were all over 6' tall and large plants. They were all planted directly in the ground.
cloz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 8, 2011   #5
kath
Tomatovillian™
 
kath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
Default

The Kosovo plant I grew last year reached the top wire at 6.5' and then I attached the vines as it grew horizontally along the wire in both directions for I'd guess another 2'. I don't know how tall it's "supposed" to get, but it was in the fairly tall group of the 150 or so varieties that were still growing at the end of the season last year.

These results are for single plants grown in the ground and pruned to 1, 2 or 3 vines and either staked or attached to horizontal wires, except for Black Cherry, which wasn't pruned. I don't think tomato plants get as tall when grown in containers, but I could be wrong about that.

You're going to have to provide some kind of support for indeterminates grown in containers, and if the plants grow taller than your support, you can top themor just let them keep going and they'll eventually fall over and grow back down toward the ground. If there are other variables such as how much sun they'll get in different areas, too, then just make your best guess and go for it. Take notes and make adjustments the next year for any you want to grow again.
kath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #6
Too Tall Toms
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 116
Default

This is the kind of stuff I LOVE reading about! Tall tomatoes will be my goal for next year!
Too Tall Toms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #7
Mudman
Tomatovillian™
 
Mudman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NW Wisconsin
Posts: 910
Default

For me Sungold F1 is enormous! It was probably 9 ft. in my garden last year. I think the only tomato that I have had grow larger than SG was Yellow Pear. Cherokee Purple has always been the shortest plant that I have grown for an indeterminate.
__________________
Mike
Mudman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #8
tgplp
Tomatovillian™
 
tgplp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pacific North West, zone 8a
Posts: 510
Default

This is interesting- sun gold grew about 5 feet in my garden, compared to 7 foot black cherry and supersweet 100. That's weird because everyone else in this thread, their sun golds got huge!

Taryn
tgplp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #9
carolyn137
Moderator Emeritus
 
carolyn137's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lakelady View Post
lol...so you're telling me this isn't as simple as it sounds then ...I thought Kosovo grew to about 5'. It's probably very likely that no matter what I "think" will be good for containers, it very well could not. I think I read that hearts usually do well in containers. I'm just trying to hopefully keep from having a gazzillion cages with tomatoes that grow out of control, I find it easier to control my tomatoes with stakes.
No, it really isn't as simple as it sounds, from your comment above.

Send seeds from the same batch to different folks in different parts of the country and it's doubtful that there will be consensus on how tall the plants will be and that's b'c of all the variables like:

If inground, what is the soil like?
What was the weather like in the season they were grown?
What amendments were used and if so how much and how often?
If not inground then how grown, in containers, caging, staking, Florida weave or whatever.

I'm one who sprawls plants so I haven't clue as to how tall the plants might get to. And these days I have to grow them in containers and put in each one one of those cheapie conical supports to get the plants higher before they start cascading down.

I've had to do this container growing since the summer of 2005 but before that it was always in an open field and since being forced to container growing I've grown lots and lots of heart varieties and they've perfomed just as well as the other varieties in the same season.

So I'm not sure about your comment about hearts not growing well in containers. I can't see why they wouldn't, in general.

Looking at your initial post I see you said you were going to grow 7 plants in that narrow area that was only 2-3 ft wide X 16 ft long. That's only 2.3 ft between plants, a bit more if you let the end ones spill over.

At that distance apart what's your game plan as to how you're going to grow them? Caging, staking, etc? I know I'd cage them since the distance for caging and staking is just about the same. But I think you'll get better plants by caging and one reason is the heat of the concrete from the old shuffleboard stressing any plants you put in the area. Just my own opinion here.
__________________
Carolyn
carolyn137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #10
lakelady
Tomatovillian™
 
lakelady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
Default

Hi Carolyn,

Well, I'm trying to work up a plan, but don't actually have one yet...I was thinking of staking or trying a florida weave for that strip of soil with the in-ground plants. All summer this past summer I watched and recorded how much sun and where the sun was because I considered putting tomatoes there next year. The strip of land is actually much longer, probably 30' plus, but part of it doesn't get enough sun once it travels across the sky and into the trees in my neighbor's yard. So, the idea was to put containers on the concrete for the rest of the tomatoes.

I just recall reading posts where people had said Brandywines in general grew quite tall, so I came up the idea that possibly some had a tendency to grow taller than others and I could figure out which to grow where based on that. Maybe not. My comment about the hearts...I can't remember where i read it, but I recall reading that hearts did grow quite well in containers.

Between all the massive amounts of information here on TV, and what I've been reading in your book, I'm just trying to see if I can be better prepared for next year by doing this early. I did take your advice and am growing several Brandywines together to see which I like best, as well as growing the Cherokees in the same year as well. Makes a lot of sense because if I have a bad year, at least my comparisons will be based on same weather and treatments I give them.

Regarding your post on the caging vs. staking, do plants actually do better with cages? I never knew that! wow. You know, come to think of it, I ran out of stakes this year as I planted more tomatoes than previous years, so one of my pastes got a cage. Same plant as 8 others, San Marzanos. The caged plant actually DID produce more fruits and I thought it was just a fluke. It was in a small isolated bed with 2 other SM and the caged one just went wild and kept producing all summer with over 80 fruits total. It also had less disease when the septoria hit.
__________________
Antoniette
lakelady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 9, 2011   #11
lakelady
Tomatovillian™
 
lakelady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kath View Post
The Kosovo plant I grew last year reached the top wire at 6.5' and then I attached the vines as it grew horizontally along the wire in both directions for I'd guess another 2'. I don't know how tall it's "supposed" to get, but it was in the fairly tall group of the 150 or so varieties that were still growing at the end of the season last year.

These results are for single plants grown in the ground and pruned to 1, 2 or 3 vines and either staked or attached to horizontal wires, except for Black Cherry, which wasn't pruned. I don't think tomato plants get as tall when grown in containers, but I could be wrong about that.

You're going to have to provide some kind of support for indeterminates grown in containers, and if the plants grow taller than your support, you can top themor just let them keep going and they'll eventually fall over and grow back down toward the ground. If there are other variables such as how much sun they'll get in different areas, too, then just make your best guess and go for it. Take notes and make adjustments the next year for any you want to grow again.
Kath, it took me 2 weeks to do 2 of Raybos Inntainers because I became so OCD about it (I was checking my measurements of holes 3 or 4 times each lol....). The thought of going through the instructions for the cages , well, I need to be prepared for that one ...I get very distracted easily.

I was pruning my plants this year to 2 main stalks but eventually towards August when disease hit and all the rains came, I gave up on trying to keep up with pruning half dead plants. It was discouraging.
__________________
Antoniette
lakelady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 10, 2011   #12
travis
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
Default

Sungold can get enormous and very long. Well grown, I've had them 9 - 12 feet long when let go to do as they will. Black Cherry can go 8 feet long easy. I've had JD's C-Tex that grew 8 feet long and some that didn't get 6 feet tall. Pink Tie Dye, Black & Brown Boar, and Juane Flamme are very managable, imo, even in containers.
travis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 10, 2011   #13
kath
Tomatovillian™
 
kath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lakelady View Post
Kath, it took me 2 weeks to do 2 of Raybos Inntainers because I became so OCD about it (I was checking my measurements of holes 3 or 4 times each lol....). The thought of going through the instructions for the cages , well, I need to be prepared for that one ...I get very distracted easily.

I was pruning my plants this year to 2 main stalks but eventually towards August when disease hit and all the rains came, I gave up on trying to keep up with pruning half dead plants. It was discouraging.

I give you a lot of credit for even attempting to make Inntainer! Not handy and neither is DH- he pounds stakes we get for free after I nail a few tacks in them and that helps the ties not slip down the stakes when the vines get heavy. I use strips of old fabric for ties. It's easy and cheap and does the job. We have a few cages from free/cheap wire but I'm not convinced that I like them yet- I find it very hard to find bugs, spray, prune and keep up with disease as well as with other methods I've tried so far.

I usually maintain the pruning to the end of July/beginning of August and then whatever's still healthy usually gets free reign for the rest of the season. This year was brutal for leaf disease problems here and there wasn't much left to prune by mid-August. My goal for next year is not to grow more than I can keep up with in terms of spraying for fungal disease.
kath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 10, 2011   #14
lakelady
Tomatovillian™
 
lakelady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: northern NJ zone 6b
Posts: 1,862
Default

Well, it was a horrid year here for leaf diseases, and actually, I'm glad it was because I found tomatoville and just kept coming back looking for advice and help!

It was so bad I thought about asking my witty 18 year old to write a greek tragedy about it lol...
__________________
Antoniette
lakelady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 12, 2011   #15
PATM
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1
Default Brandywine? Never Again

I planted 6 Brandywine tomato plants in my garden this past season, never again!

They are huge plants, that grow to be 12' tall. I ended up using 10' long 2x4s for supports. The plant's leaves and fruit are so large and heavy it will need a cage for support.

Harvest is late summer, with relatively small yields.

Unless you have a big big garden, avoid Brandywine.
PATM is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:30 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★