Legend vs. Oregon spring

[The Future]

I am interested in parthenocarpic tomatoes that can fill the gap left by summer conditions where the temperature never falls below 73 and none of the varieties I've grown to date can set fruit. I just seeded legend today and note the mixed views on taste - sellers say is it sweet and juicy, eaters say it is uninspiring. I am interested in possibly crossing with tasty varieties to see if I can create a tasty parthenocarpic variety but at a minimum will have a few to get us through a tomatoeless July - oct.

So, between Oregon spring and legend, which ranks higher on taste for you?

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by The Future

I am interested in parthenocarpic tomatoes that can fill the gap left by summer conditions where the temperature never falls below 73 and none of the varieties I've grown to date can set fruit. I just seeded legend today and note the mixed views on taste - sellers say is it sweet and juicy, eaters say it is uninspiring. I am interested in possibly crossing with tasty varieties to see if I can create a tasty parthenocarpic variety but at a minimum will have a few to get us through a tomatoeless July - oct.

So, between Oregon spring and legend, which ranks higher on taste for you?

Both were bred by Dr. Jim Baggett at Oregon State U, now retired, and yes both are parthnocarpic and he bred others that are also parthenocarpic.

But they were bred for the pacific NW and other areas where the Spings are too cool to allow for normal pollenization to occur and thus being parthenocarpic could bypass fertilization of the ovules in the tomato ovary ( seeds to be) and yet form fruits.

They were not bred to withstand high heat situations as you describe, just the opposite.

Legend was bred primarilly for Late Blight ( P. infestans) tolerance, which is a problem in the PNW, but isn't that tolerant and there are newer varieties out there that have better genes for that tolerance.

Because fruiit development is abnormal there are few seeds formed, flesh consistency can be abnormal as well.

I've grown Oregon Spring, out of curiousity, but not Legend so can't compare the tastes of both but I do know that there are many many other varieties I'd grow for taste other than Oregon Spring.

Hope that helps.

[Tania]

I like Oregon Spring. Legend was not bad either, but we had the worst year and it may not have had a chance to show its potential. Keep in mind I grow these tomatoes in containers, and my container maters are usually better tasting than the ones in the ground.

I grow Oregon Spring every year. It is a very sweet tomato in my garden.

[The Future]

Thanks doc and Tania. Doc to clarify: I don't have what others would classify as a "high heat" situation. The all time max recorded temperature where I live is 93F. Nonetheless I have found flowers do not pollinate where night temperatures are above about 73F which is from June until Oct most years. My plants are just beginning to handout their first post-summer ripe fruits now.

Tania, good to hear about oregon spring. I note Tom Wagner has crossed it with Ananas Noir and will to try my own crosses with it.

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by The Future

Thanks doc and Tania. Doc to clarify: I don't have what others would classify as a "high heat" situation. The all time max recorded temperature where I live is 93F. Nonetheless I have found flowers do not pollinate where night temperatures are above about 73F which is from June until Oct most years. My plants are just beginning to handout their first post-summer ripe fruits now.

Tania, good to hear about oregon spring. I note Tom Wagner has crossed it with Ananas Noir and will to try my own crosses with it.

Yes, I do understand about not setting fruits when the temps are that high at night.

But I think there might be an easier alternative than possibly using a parthenocarpic tomato variety to see if that would help the problem.

And that alternative would be to use the product Blossom Set. There are different brands and different plant hormones that are used. The most common one I know if IAA ( indole acetic acid).

Use of Blossom Set induces parthenocarpy as you'll see if you research it, but when folks I know have used it to help set fruits when the temps are too high, either night or day, I don't think I remember anyone saying it helped.

So my take over time is that both Blossom Set and use of parthenocarpic varieties such as Oregon Spring, are used primarily, were actually devised, to help fruit set in cool Spring conditions.

But now harm trying the Blossom Set first to see how it might work.

[carolyn137]

Another suggestion and some questions?

What is the humidity like in Bermuda? I've been to Abaco and Eleuthera in the Caribeean but Bermuda is north in the Atlantic. And yes, I have a reason for asking that question.

Surely there are others in Bermuda who grow tomatoes and do the ones you know have such problems during the summer with fruit setting. There are places in the US south where the same obtains, and many of them do two crops a year, a Spring and a Fall crop as well, new plants each time. I can explain if you're interested.

Are the temps there OK for growing tomatoes outside of the July to OCt time frame? I would think so based on the fact that the snowbirds go to Bermuda during "our" winter.

[The Future]

Thanks Carolyn. I am gonna skip the blossom set having just briefly read up on it. Question mark on organic status. Humidity is high here, routinely 75 - 95%, sometimes 100%. I would guess commercial farmers do get fruit set I the summer with specific hybrids that may facilitate that. I did see a homes grower with a hybrid cherry that never stopped all summer. So perhaps there may be some heirlooms that could do the same? Dunno. Tomatoes can be planted here every single month of the year. I tend to keep a plant as long as it is producing or propagate it from a cutting to get a fresh start. Of course I save seeds and start new plants every year too. Some plants last, others do not. The main growing season (generally) Bermuda is from oct - April. Farmers tend to either plant beans (if they are progressive) for tilling in later during the summer or pumpkins/watermelon (which is progressive too). The heat makes it such that field work has to be done by 10am, maybe 9.

I generally do about 4 plantings a year but for a given space...it is dictated by the plant.