Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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December 13, 2011 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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Are raised beds worth doing in a hot climate??
I understand the logic that raised beds warm quicker than the rest of your veg patch, but surely that means they can overheat in a hot climate?
Notwithstanding the fact that they are easier on your back (once built!) is there much value in having them at all? |
December 13, 2011 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 42
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That's a good point about overheating but yard long beans, tepary beans and summer squash all like the heat and do well in my raised beds. But the real reason I built them was because my native soil is mostly caliche. It's a lot easier to fill the bed with a half ton pick-truck of garden soil from the landscape center than to wait years for the caliche to be well amended.
What is the soil like in Johannesburg? |
December 13, 2011 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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There's quite a lot of clay, but I am close to the crest of a small hill, and I have fairly good drainage, and a well balanced soil, which I load with compost continually.
I have a bad back - probably due to my huge front! - so I do see the value in the raised beds, but I imagine they would really get too hot in midsummer. Our heat ranges between that of Ca and Az if memory serves me... |
December 13, 2011 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 42
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Sounds like the hill will help with drainage. For back problems have you considered straw bale gardening? I've tried it before and was moderately successful. I just did it for a fun experiment. You need well aged bales.
We hit 120° last summer. My garden basically 'rested' last summer and I put in lots of tomatoes, chinese cabbage, onions and herbs in early fall. We got an early frost a couple of weeks ago and some of the beautiful tomato plants took a hit but I think the root systems are strong and they will come back in spring. |
December 13, 2011 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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I didn't realise that tomato plants could come back in Spring...
I kinda took it for granted that the first frosts were the last time I would see that particular plant... |
December 13, 2011 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 42
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Only the leaves look damaged, there's plenty of green stems and *some* green leaves that were buried under the mass. I'm not pruning because I don't want new growth right now. I could be wrong, a friend came by, looked at the black mass and told me to stay the course, they will come back. Nothing to loose, everything to gain, by justing waiting. I'll keep covering on frost projected nights. I missed one night because I came home late and tired, temps were predicted to 38° but it went lower. A lazy farmer can lose her crop. :-|
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December 13, 2011 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I've had mine for over 25 years and haven't regretted building them one bit. I am on top of a clay knob with very little topsoil and gardening before raised beds was a true nightmare. I live in a very hot climate and we have been in an off and on drought for most of 25 years.
The biggest problem with raised beds is not the heat of the beds but rather keeping them watered. Heat is easily solved by a good thick mulch. I use a lot of organic matter along with some water holding crystals mixed in each year. I also have drip irrigation and now use a very heavy mulch from cypress trees which does a wonderful job retaining the water in the beds. If you are having back problems then they can be a life saver as long as you don't make the beds too wide. Mine are 4 feet wide and as I have gotten older and my arthritis has gotten much worse, I wish I had made them no more than 40 inches wide. It would be nice to sit on my little scooting stool and be able to reach the center without having to lean over and stretch. |
December 13, 2011 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Zone 9 Texas, Fort Bend County
Posts: 436
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I must agree. Best garden investment I ever made. I would suggest not making your beds too wide unless you plan to put a pathway down the middle. Too much width makes the maintenance a chore when it comes to weeding and things like that. My only regret was making my 2 beds 6' wide when it would have been just as effective to make 4 @ 3' wide.
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December 13, 2011 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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Have you folk concentrated on the warmth aspect of the raised beds or was the height important to you? What height have you made the beds?
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December 13, 2011 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 42
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Mine are one 2"x10' plank topped with a 2"x4"plank (tall). I was not concerned with bending, etc but did what bigbubba and b54 mentioned, 3' wide so I can reach the middle, 6' long. I mulch to control heat and water evaporation, been using a combo of cardboard and straw because I have them around and they are cheap - or free in the case of the cardboard.
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December 13, 2011 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: TriCities, WA
Posts: 141
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I haven't noticed any difference in warmth in my raised beds. Mine are 30" wide and tall, which I calculated as the maximum volume I'd want for any crop in them. I wouldn't mind having them a bit taller for the bending over to, but there's no call for more media depth than that.
I remove the top six inches every year and dig in new media. The old media goes into the compost piles. |
December 13, 2011 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
It was for drainage and building up good soil on top of bad clay soil.
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
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December 13, 2011 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 253
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Quote:
At this writing I probably walk just a bit better'n Carolyn. Fall better too. Back on topic, 8 to 12 inch tall raised beds and shortened gardening tools bring the middle of raised beds into my reach. I'm on clay, and water logging is an issue at times. Slightly raised beds relieve that noakian problem. Mulch helps relieve drouth. Hugelkultur helps more, and abates need for irrigation.
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December 14, 2011 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Holbrook, Az zone 5
Posts: 157
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I started with 6 inch raised beds now most of them are 10 to 18 inches My garden has never been better ever....
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“The yield of a crop is LIMITED by the deficiency of any one element even though all of the other necessary elements are present in adequate amounts”. J. Von Liebig's law of the minimum. |
December 14, 2011 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Quote:
I like the raised beds because I can get stuff growing well in early spring. Nothing does well in summer except ysrdlongs and okra, anyway. I'm going to yank everything except the really heat tolerant stuff this summer, not try to keep all the tomatoes growing. Maybe grow some amaranth and sesame for the chickens in their place instead. |
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