Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
June 18, 2012 | #1 |
Two-faced Drama Queen
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bellevue Psychiatric Hospital
Posts: 955
|
need YOUR help planning cool weather garden
Hello Fellow Tomatovillians!
Generally I can be quite a know-it-all sometimes, LOL But I really need your help with this. I live in zone 6 and I'm trying to plan a cool weather garden where I can sow seeds at the end of August. I'm planning it for the school garden to feed the kiddoes when they come back to school. I've never done a cool weather garden before. Here is what I have on the list so far: lettuce peas radishes beets seven top turnips (for greens only) jerusalem artichokes? potatoes? broccoli cauliflower I'm sure you all can think of so many more things. I want short day cool season stuff. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU in advance for your help. As I said, I have never done a cool weather garden before. Any insight is deeply appreciated. Jennifer |
June 18, 2012 | #2 |
Two-faced Drama Queen
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bellevue Psychiatric Hospital
Posts: 955
|
help :)
Bump. I *really* would love your opinions on this
As I said, I have never done a cool weather garden before. |
June 18, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
|
That is all relative to where you live.
What you guys up there call a cool weather garden is the time of year tomatoes do good where I live. But if you insist I would suggest rutabagas, cabbage, lettuce the butter head kind, snow peas, turnips, good white radishes, carrots oh the list could go on forever. I even have a recipe. Get some good bratwurst and steam it. Cook up some rutabagas, Cook some cabbage. Boil some Russian fingerling potatoes. Get some real good butter and put on the potatoes and rutabagas. Find some good imported German sauerkraut not that garbage they make in the US. Heat it up and make a pig out of yourself.(have a real feast) I cant think of anything better to eat in cool weather. Oh yes good dark beer you have to have beer. Worth Last edited by Worth1; June 18, 2012 at 06:37 PM. Reason: butter head not putter head. LOL |
June 18, 2012 | #4 |
Two-faced Drama Queen
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bellevue Psychiatric Hospital
Posts: 955
|
Worth, thank you!
The only thing is, I can't give the kiddies beer. Unless I want to lose my teaching license and go to jail. Which I DON'T want to do. But I'll have the beer |
June 18, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Whidbey Island, WA Zone 7, Sunset 5
Posts: 931
|
Do you have access to any covering, Jennifer? My fall is longer than yours, and I don't get peas, beets, broccoli or cauliflower to produce with planting that late.
j |
June 18, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
|
I just read the complete post I'm sorry I mised the part about sowing seeds in the latter part of august.
What, you guys like get your first frost in September? Then a freeze soon there after. Your choices are very limited. In Missouri we started a fall garden sometime in July and no potatoes. It was squash short season corn, tomatoes and such. Worth |
June 18, 2012 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Posts: 1,332
|
Maybe kale? I can't remember when you are supposed to sow that to eat in Winter, but it will certainly stand some frost and some of the varieties are so pretty.
I have Ragged Jack and Dinosaur kale right now and if the slugs would leave it alone, it would be just beautiful! |
June 18, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,553
|
Various types of sprouting broccolli, they will produce white or purple shoots right through the winter till April. There are several types that you can harvest one after the other as maturity dates are different. Just look upo sprouting broccolli.
9 Star is a perennial broccolli if you can find it. You could plant garlic for next year XX Jeannine |
June 18, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: zone 5b northwest connecticut
Posts: 2,570
|
i read what you want to do but just skimmed the replies.
while you live a a warmer part of ct than i do, i do not think you can grow anything if you start it in late august and expect to eat it, lettuce or some greens might be the exception but even that is iffy. if you want plants to look at fine but the growing season is basically over by labor day. i have had a hard time getting cabbage plants (55 dtm variety) and seeding carrots to mature when planted in late july and it's still hot and the sun is still strong. winter radishes will mature if planted around 8/1 to 8/15 but i question if regular radishes will grow properly in a decreasing day length environment tho they mature in 20 to 30 days in spring. forget potatoes, broccoli and cauliflower there just is not enough time or sun strength. as i mentioned, lettuce possibly even that is iffy in late august. if you can put in plants in early july then by labor day you'll have a shot at harvesting food but i can't see how anything will grow and be capable of maturing when started in late august. even if your frost isn't until 10/30, which it won't be, the sun is just too weak to grow plants from starting in september. i've watched this race to the frost for years here and i can't see it being different on long island sound. tom
__________________
I need a hero I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the end of the night He’s gotta be strong And he’s gotta be fast And he’s gotta be fresh from the fight I need a hero I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the morning light He’s gotta be sure And it’s gotta be soon And he’s gotta be larger than life |
June 18, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,553
|
You would have to start seeds now and plant transplants with the kids. XX Jeannine
|
June 19, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: California Central Valley
Posts: 2,543
|
Does mache (Valerianella) grow in your area? I don't eat lettuce, but I love this winter green. It grows slowly but lasts for the whole cool season. Chard and kale, as well as beets, mustard greens, and radishes, might also work. The usual rec. is to start seeds at least 8-10 weeks before first frost, but if you'll be using hoop houses or a greenhouse, you may be able to stretch that window. I planted mache seeds once and it has reseeded ever since.
I just planted seeds for some of my winter crops (and some of my last-try summer crops) today, and my first frost isn't until the end of November. I've learned I need to get my transplants into the ground in August to have any chance of a harvest before frost hits. And I'm determined to eat peas from my garden this year!! In my area, jerusalem artichokes need to be planted in the early spring to produce a fall/winter crop. Potato tops die back with the first frost. |
June 19, 2012 | #12 |
Two-faced Drama Queen
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bellevue Psychiatric Hospital
Posts: 955
|
Thank you for all your help. I'm thinking we're going to start lettuce in the basement now and plant them as transplants. Then also do seven top turnip greens. Some mache. Maybe some beets and also some parisian carrots. I'll use a floating row cover. I just want to get the most out of our garden before we change to growing everything indoors for the winter.
|
June 19, 2012 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
|
Spinach is a great fall crop, too, and withstands the cold even better than lettuce.
|
June 19, 2012 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
|
Jennifer,
You can get both a pea and a carrot crop in for fall if you time it to your frost date. Depending on the varieties - start them both probably at the mid to end of July. No later than the beginning of August. It will really come down to how hot August is and if you can provide them with (some) shade during that time period. |
June 24, 2012 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
|
Mizuna and Komatsuna also do well in cool weather - some Bok Choy varieties as well. Claytonia (Miner's lettuce) is specifically a cool weather crop - it's really nice, very like lettuce but prettier. Mizuna is very mild tasting and holds well to cut and come again into the fall.
Some kales will even overwinter without any cover, and you can have early greens next spring - we had the dinosaur kale overwintered from last year and the spring leaves were tender and delicious. Then it started to flower, and produced a tower of little 'broccoli' buds of the finest kind, all before our new greens were big enough to eat. This year I'm also growing black spanish radish - they say that, if left over winter, they will produce a huge crop of pods early in the spring - a fine vegetable, crunchy like snap peas. And I got a 'Hardy Evergreen' scallion from Johnny's that can be planted in fall, and can be overwintered and divided in the spring. Floating row cover is great stuff, it's amazing what a difference a few degrees makes. Good luck with your school garden. |
|
|