Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 8, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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What to choose for new weather in the North East?
Last year we lost our tomato crop by mid august due to heat stress. What one garden expert advised is to choose tomato plants that grow better in hotter Souther climates. Any ideas?
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January 8, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
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in my norther NJ garden
kelloggs breakfast and cherokee purple both did very well last season all my cherries did well - black cherry, sungold f1, husky cherry, sweet 100 and super sweet 100 for years my father had good success with rutgers, ramapo, burpee big girl, early girl, and any other seedlings bought at the local garden center.
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January 8, 2013 | #3 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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Quote:
Did Kelloggs breakfast and Cherokee purple do well for you last summer in the heat? We tried both and both got wiped out. The only tomatoes that lasted into the end of the summer were sweet 100 and some of the grape tomatoes. |
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January 8, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 234
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I live in Central Jersey and last year I did 18 plants. I stepped it up from the usual 4 plants in the past. All produced well except for MP and lasted into September. It may have been luck. My hybrids were actually the worst producing plants for me. This is what I planted:
KBX Earl's Faux Marianna's Peace - survived but few fruit. Cuostralee Prudens Purple Barlow Jap Better Boy Ramapo Black Krim Juanne Flamme Black Cherry Sungold |
January 8, 2013 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 1,183
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Quote:
yes they did great. i heavily watered when the temps got high
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January 8, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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I don't recall if it got as hot here as it did where you are, but most of mine didn't seemed to be too bothered by our weather. The only ones that had low production for me were Perth Pride, Yukon Quest, Terhune, and a couple of the Tastywine and Boronia plants I grew for the Dwarf Project. But I don't know how much the weather was the cause.
The others were all happy as could be, and some of the pastes only really started producing when the weather got hotter. In addition to those mentioned above, I grew: Red Pear San Marzano Redorta Rocky Opalka Casino Jersey Devil Costoluto Genovese Russo Sicilian Togeta Sorrento Virginia Sweets Pink Honey Franchi cherry Kimberley Ailsa Craig Iditarod Red Yapnskiy Karlik Dwarf Champion Improved |
January 9, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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[QUOTE=pinklady5;319274]I live in Central Jersey and last year I did 18 plants. I stepped it up from the usual 4 plants in the past. All produced well except for MP and lasted into September. It may have been luck. My hybrids were actually the worst producing plants for me. This is what I planted:
I wonder if you got the same degree of heat and humidity that Long Island got in the middle of the summer. It may only be a couple of degrees different that may have made the difference. I know that I had the worst tomato season in history. Most of my plants turned brown and died by the middle of august. One expert said it must have been a fungus and others say it was heat stress and I have to look into the varieties that they grow in the south . Who knows |
January 9, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I don't know if they are a pest up there but spider mites are usually a real problem when the weather gets near 100 for an extended time. I usually have good luck with most of the black tomatoes even when the temps exceed 100. The tomatoes will be smaller and there will be fewer of them in very hot weather. Judicious pruning of the plant to stop too many suckers will also help. I have found through trial and error that tomatoes need a lot of water and a bit of extra fertilizer to set fruit when the temperatures get above the mid 90s.
Over the years the following full size varieties have shown themselves to be fairly productive during the warmer times of summer and fall. They don't succeed every year but they have been repeatedly productive despite the heat. The one thing that will always slow or stop production is spider mites so be vigilant in watching for them. Indian Stripe Big Beef Cherokee Purple JD's Special C Tex Dana's Dusky Rose Gary O' Sena Eva Purple Ball Neves Azorean Red Black Krim Frank's Large Red Andrew Rahart's Jumbo Red KBX Zogola Lescana Dr. Wyches Yellow Terhune Stump of the World Kosovo Fish Lake Oxheart Marianna's Peace Lumpy Red |
January 9, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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We tried black crim and prudence purple last summer. No good. The only tomatoes we got anything out of it was sweet 100 and grape. Even those dies early. What happened is that the branches started turning brown and this went right up each plant. Could it have been a blight? Maybe. Could it have been heat stess? More possibly because in September when the temperatures dropped, the plants looked like they were attempting to rejuvenate themselves but it was too late.
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January 9, 2013 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Are you growing in containers? Did you check for spider mites? |
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January 9, 2013 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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Quote:
I grow in containers and some in the ground. All of the plants had the same problem. Some were VNF resistant and these too went down. |
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January 9, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Elliot it sounds like you either had a bad case of spider mites or insufficient watering. I doubt that you will have to worry about those blistering summers every year as we do down here; but if you do have another real heatwave like recently make sure you have a magnifying glass to check for spider mites and be generous with the water.
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January 9, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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OK, this is new to me. I never used a mag glass. How small are these mites and what do you do about them?
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January 9, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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They are very small. If you have really excellent eyesight you should be able to see them moving on the underside of the infected leaves if you look long enough. It is much easier with magnification. As to what to do about them there are whole threads on the subject on this site which you can read.
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January 9, 2013 | #15 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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I think it is interesting and almost funny that someone in the New York/New Jersey area is asking for suggested varieties to grow in his or her area. When I think of tomatoes, my mind seems to automatically picture New Jersey because it has such a rich historical relationship to commercially grown tomatoes. I also believe Cornell University performed some of the earliest research and development on tomatoes and tomato varieties. Florida later developed a historical reputation for commercial varieties. I seem to remember asking for heat tolerant suggestions when I first grew tomatoes in Louisiana and Texas. I would have been very happy to find a resource like Tomatoville when I first started. Unfortunately Al Gore didn't invent the internet until much later.
Ted |
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