Water Timer Recommendations?

[tqn626]

Going to put in 3 drip irrigation systems for my relatives. Any recommendations on a timer? Something in the 25-35 dollar range or lower would be nice.

[TightenUp]

check the melnor aqua timer. i initially had a bit of trouble with this one but after contacting customer service they helped fix my issue and the timer lasted the entire season. my issue was the timer kept saying low batteries and stop working. i would replace the batteries and sometimes within 12 hours the timer would say the batteries were low again. i would test the batteries on a tester and they were full of power.


if you decide to go with this one do this.

"Please check inside the battery compartment the contacts may be uneven and there is not solid contact. If that is the case even swings in temperature may cause the metal to shrink. Momentary loss of power may make the unit think the batteries are low. You can gently pry up the depressed contact. If that does not work we will have to replace your timer."


after doing this "fix" i would rate this timer 5/5.

[Crandrew]

Sub'd for suggestions as well. I will be setting up my drip tape and need a timer

[Crandrew]

So pretty much anyone will do? I was sure folks would have a preference. Amazon here I come.

[JamesL]

i meant to reply to this thread the other day.
I use this one. Battery lasted the whole season.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_163729-74985...t#BVRRWidgetID

We talked about them last summer here:
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=24285

[Crandrew]

James! that's exactly what i needed. I spotted that same one on Amazon. I should have just searched for the thread. Thanks.

[Tonio]

I have the one outlet dealio, that is split prior to the input for a manual hose. Smaller scale, so perfect for my needs. Same battery for 2 years running. Nice big digital time screen display is handy for when you lounge close during manual irrigating chores!!

[Worth1]

I am ashamed to admit I have the 2 station timer Orbit has listed above.
It is very limited in its programming and start times but works ok.
I also have a system that is programed wireless from my computer to 2 12 zone controllers.
And a wireless rain sensor.

I think that when you get to the point of spending 40 to 50 dollars on battery operated timers you are better off getting a controller.
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Ra...llers-s/76.htm


For your drip system to work well and not stop up you need to get a filter.

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Dr...ers-s/1046.htm

And the right valve.

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Ir...e-p/2500tf.htm
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Dr...ies-s/8145.htm

No this stuff is more expensive than a battery operated timer but you can do so much more with it.
Just a thought if you ever want to expand dont get caught up in a loop and end up spending more money the cheap way.
Your choice.

One word on battery operated controller valves.
The reason the batteries last so long is-------.
The timer says on and it sends a burst of energy to a latching solenoid and it toggles on.
The timer says off and another shot goes to the solenoid and it turns off.
This way the battery is not sending electricity to the valve all of the time just in short bursts.
Sometimes the solenoid will get out of phase and it will be on when it is supposed to be off.
(this does not happen very often).
When the battery gets low the timer clock will still work but they will not have enough power to toggle the solenoid.
What does this do?
It will make you think the timers is broken and you may be inclined to go out and buy a new one.
All you really need to do is put in fresh batteries.
Or look at the connections and fix them as said above.

Water supply.
Look at your drip emitters and see how much water they put out.
Lets say 1 gallon per hour.( GPH)
You have 100 emitters.
Your water needs are 100 GPH.
Divide 60 into 100
This would equate to around 1.6 gallons per minute. (GPM)
Turn on your timer and start your timer clock.
Get a bucket and see how much water your timer valve will put out in one minute.
The 5 gallon bucket fills up in 30 seconds.
This will tell you. you have 10 gallons a minute water supply.
I personally have 23 GPM at 50 PSI.
One other thing.
Smaller pipe does NOT increase water pressure it increases water velocity.
Velocity causes pressure loss.
So regardless of what people tell you bigger pipe is better.
I am getting rid of my 100 foot 3/4 water line to the house and installing a 1 1/2 line.
This will decrease my pressure loss from off the charts to about a pound or so.

I just thought someone could use this information and I will put it all in the irrigation thread.
Worth

[whistech]

Thank You Worth1, I can use the info. I will be installing a drip irrigation system for my raised beds soon.

[Crandrew]

Thanks worth.

[Worth1]

Many people make the mistake of thinking a valve is a valve and bigger is better.
This is just not the case.
What is the case is you pay for what you get.

You can really screw up getting the wrong valve and here is an example of a fine valve for drip systems.
The first picture is about friction loss and GPM.
Look at the chart and see what I mean.
It is not a mistake when you see that the friction loss is more at lower flow and 15 GPM has the least friction loss. This valve was designed to flow at 15 GPM but will work well through the whole range.
The next picture shows the specs on the valve that are very important.
It is its operating range.
Some valves will not operate less than 10 GPM this one will work at I think .25 GPM and at 10 PSI.
You may ask why is that?
The valve made to operate at 10 GPM will not close at lower flow rates it will keep running many times.
I have had to put in a 1 inch master valve on a 1-1/2 inch line because this valve will flow better at my 23 GPM and will close.
A 1-1/2 inch valve would not work.
So before you go out and buy just any valve find out what the flow will be through that valve and what the residual PSI will be.
This is a little complicated because you have to figure out your emitters GPM at so and so PSI and what your pressure drop is in your pipe, fittings and valve.
For drip it is not going to be that big of a deal.
What you have to know is what your static PSI is and what your flow rate is GPM.

Worth

2500 Friction..JPG

2500 valve.JPG

[Crandrew]

I miss the people on this forum. What a great group.