Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 26, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 90
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Another Random: How do you label your plants?
I've yet to find a good reliable method for labeling my plants once I plant them out. I've tried marking the plant in the ground with a mini blind or other such stake with the variety name but they sometimes break or become obscured by weeds, the plant itself, etc.
Last year I didn't label the plants themselves but kept a map in a spreadsheet of where each variety was planted in the plot (at my community garden plot). This was okay but sometimes it was hard to match up the plant location/variety name and more often than not I wouldn't have my map on me when I needed it so I'd just pick varieties on site and not know what they were once I got home. So, what have you used successfully? Any suggestions for what could work as a practical, reliable time to label the plants "in the field"? Apologies if this has been covered before. I tried to search but couldn't find what I was looking for. Please direct me to threads if appropriate. Thank you! |
January 26, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,931
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I tie a piece of plastic ribbon to the top of each stake or cage and write the name on it with a jiffy marker. I agree putting a tag or stick or whatever at the base is only good when the plant is small. My way looks a bit different but the "tags" are up where I can see them like little flags. I find they stay on and readable all season through wind and rain and sun
Last edited by KarenO; January 26, 2013 at 05:22 AM. |
January 26, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,051
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We stuggled for years with labels. This year i made 12 inch labels out of the fake wood type blinds I found at Restore. I used a wax pencil and we faced all labels to the north so there was no fading of the labels. The labels were readily visible and can be moved out from the stem as the plant grows larger. We also had a map for backups.
If you need to keep track of the tomatoes you pick for tasting, weighing, and seed saving, take a sharpie with you when you go to pick. |
January 26, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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I marked cups with sharpie the last 2 years and have had terrible fading problems. I finally went to ball point pen. It didn't fade as quick and it incised a word into the cup. The wax pencil sounds good. I'd think a plain old crayon would work also. I know that there are paint pens out there that I intend to try. I'll ask one of the guys at the local used parts yard where they get theres.
I like the flag idea. Nancy I'm reading what you wrote as you are hanging them right on the tomato plant it self. How do you think plain wooden ones will work. If you think they will work I'm going to start running firewood through my table saw. I guess I have some experimenting to do this weekend I'll report back. Last edited by Doug9345; January 26, 2013 at 02:45 PM. |
January 26, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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The best for me is to mark a tomato with its assigned abbreviation as soon as it's picked using an industrial Sharpie. I don't mark cherries but harvest contrasting varieties in the same basket and I don't mark anything that's distinctive enough (stripes, shape, etc.) and put the abbreviation as close to the stem as possible where I'm sure to be cutting away a lot of the nearby fruit.
For plant labels, Nancy's idea of the wax pencil facing north works well for me, too. I tried the wimpier blinds and don't like them because it's difficult to keep them from bending when putting them in the ground and I do move them as the plants grow, so I'll be keeping an eye out for wooden-type blinds. If they break, I replace them right away. Personally, I didn't find it as convenient to label stakes or cages and although labels in the ground can be a pain, that's what I'm doing at the moment, backed up with 2 copies of a garden map- a plastic covered one for the shed/garden and a pristine master copy kept in the house. Since I plant in rows, I mark the map with N, S, E and W so it's easy to know which plant I'm picking just by counting rows and plants. kath |
January 26, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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This year I did something different. Plant labels with holes punched in them.. like this:
http://www.shovelandhoe.com/Plastic_...bels_p/777.htm Then I wired the label to the cages and stakes. If you use a pencil to write the names on the tags, it seems to not fade out or wash off. At the end of the season I just snipped the label off the cage before I put it away. If you're really thrifty, you can use the other side next year I always do a map as a back up. Row 1, plant 3 is variety X, etc.
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Barbee |
January 26, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: oak grove mo
Posts: 406
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I just made a map on a piece of paper of my tomto plants in my garden and used it.
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January 26, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: TX
Posts: 178
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I cut labels from soda cans/energy drinks and write on them with a pen. The ink doesn't work but it makes an impression that lasts and I stick them in the ground but now I am wondering if it would work to cut the labels into rectangles, punch a hole on one end and hang them up on the plant or cage.
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January 26, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 985
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I grow my tomatoes in raised beds with CRW for the center trellis. Last year I printed and laminated maps for each bed showing the 5 varieties on each side of the trellis. Then I clipped the map to a clipboard and secured that to an endpost. It was very helpful and stayed legible all season long.
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January 29, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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If you just buy a "garden marker," the ink won't fade in the sun. This is the one I have:
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies...oductId=514858 I still find trash from two years ago that I marked with that pen and it hasn't faded. I'm going to try to take my field labeling more seriously this year. I'm thinking maybe a plastic cable tie around the base of the plant, threaded into a plastic tag with a hole punched through it. |
January 29, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ohio
Posts: 4,350
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You can get a "china" marker at the hardware store. OR if you use the window blind idea use a PENCIL. it won't fade or smear.
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carolyn k |
January 29, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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Last year I needed a lot of tags for many dwarf project plants. I didn't like the idea of hand writing them all, so I used my cheap Brother laser to print up sheets with names and individual id numbers in large size letters, cut them up into strips, laminated both sides in a fold of clear doublewide tape, and punched a hole in one end that I used twister ties to attach to the plant support or plant itself in some way. They remained legible til the end of the season, even though they got wet and somewhat degraded. Of course, I also had a garden location chart as well. Don't try it with inkjet printers, all you'll have is blurred ink after the first rain.
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Dee ************** |
January 29, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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4 foot cheapo bamboo stick,, leftover from other gardening adventures. Stuck in the ground with some red duct tape on top. I made a 3-4 inch label with red tape, fluttering away, couldn't miss it, even at a distance, the tomato name in black sharpie. Worked better than everything else that has gotten lost in the forest of leaves for me.
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January 29, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Victoria. Australia
Posts: 543
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I'm another one who likes to make my own and laminate them. I print out the names on paper, cut to size and laminate using Business Card size pouches. Punch a hole with a hole punch and then cable tie to stakes or cages. These are good for a whole season, but I wouldn't try a second year from them.
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January 30, 2013 | #15 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Quote:
My farmer friend Charlie would sometimes have one of his men cultivate and Roy would occasionally hook out some plants. Raccoons would get into a fight in that field and sometimes destory some of my plants. Lables NEVER worked for me out in the field and b'c I was growing so many they were sprawled, not caged or whatever. Carolyn
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Carolyn |
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