Germinating Seeds

[Durgan]

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?VMMSQ 30 May 2012 Germinating Seeds
Here is how I germinate all my seeds. The overall objective is to have high germination rates, and to have little or no root disturbance until planted in the final growing spot. The reasoning behind this method is: The pots are of adequate size. The plastic bags keep the humidity high and they need no further water or care until germination. The bags are removed immediately upon the first sign of germination, and the pot placed in bright as possible SUNLIGHT. Most seeds only need moisture and the proper temperature to germinate. Most do not need any light. There are one or two exceptions. I have absolutely no confidence in any artificial light and consider them to be a waste of money. My germination rate approaches 100%.

A smaller plastic up is also used to husband greenhouse table space.

[carolyn137]

Durgan, I do think that this post starting a new thread does belong in the starting from seed Forum where all theother posts and thread deal with germination of seeds.

Carolyn

Durgan, can you outline what you have in your potting mix? Also, how long before you transplant from cup to final location, on average? Do you fertilize in between?

Your method certainly seems simple enough, no extra handling of plants.

Thanks
BC

[Rideau Rambler]

What a great way to do it! Do you poke drain holes in your cup and with what? Love the cardboard box idea, I have been using disposable roast pans from the dollar store but a free cardboard box....what do you do to prevent the bottom from getting soggy (assuming you poked holes).

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by carolyn137

Durgan, I do think that this post starting a new thread does belong in the starting from seed Forum where all the other posts and threads deal with germination of seeds.
Carolyn

Sorry about that. I will be more careful. Move it if it is easy.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Bragg

Durgan, can you outline what you have in your potting mix? Also, how long before you transplant from cup to final location, on average? Do you fertilize in between?
Your method certainly seems simple enough, no extra handling of plants.
Thanks
BC

Fertilizer is basically compost about 10 cubic yards used per year. For now it appears to be adequate. Also wood chips get mixed about 10 cubic yards in the Fall. I use no crystal fertilizer. Moving the plants to larger pots is subjective. The tomato plants I move to gallon pots when I feel the cups are crowding the roots. Here is how I generally make my potting soil.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?HMYWR 12 August 2011 Making Potting Soil
Home potting soil for the 2012 season was made today. The compost pile is used as a mixing base; sand, wood chips, coconut fiber, garden soil, is added and mixed thoroughly using the large rototiller and smaller tiller. The finished product is stored in plastic containers and will be utilized for the 2012 season. Quantities added is based on experience and is subjective to some degree.
Coconut fiber,recently available in my area, is used, since the sphagnum moss now sold is too fine and it doesn't absorb water. Garden soil is added to get some microorganisms. Wood chips to give more fiber. Sand is to limit coagulation of the primary compost soil.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BCJYP 31 May 2012 Seedling soil.
It was a nice day and all the ingredients were available, so it was decided to make seedling soil for the 2013 season. The underlying nutrient soil was the compost heap. It was modified using some knowledge and information from previous subjective experience.Ingredients added to the basic underlying compost was, coconut coir, mason sand, some garden earth, wood chip shavings, a bit of urea. My mental process was this. Coconut coir for moisture retention. Mason sand to inhibit coagulating of the basic compost. Garden earth to supply a few microbes. Wood chips shavings for aeration.Urea to replenish any nitrogen lost as the wood chips compost or break down.The wood chips also are an indicator of how through the mixing is, since they are easily seen. The subjective quantities selected were mixed thoroughly on the compost pile using the Honda FG110G rototiller. The finished product was stored in 20 litre buckets and closed with lids tapped into place with a rubber hammer. A total quantity of about 540 litres was obtained for use in the 2013 season.Holes were drilled under the lid lip to allow air in.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Rideau Rambler

What a great way to do it! Do you poke drain holes in your cup and with what? Love the cardboard box idea, I have been using disposable roast pans from the dollar store but a free cardboard box....what do you do to prevent the bottom from getting soggy (assuming you poked holes).

Now I use plastic pans so the seedling pots can be bottom watered. The holes are made with a soldering iron and the reservoir is to keep a small bit of moisture in the pots.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?AJKVK 13 February 2012 Making Seedling Pots
Seedling pots are made from a plastic cup. Four drainage holes are burned with a soldering iron into the sides of the cup, leaving a small reservoir for water. A coffee filter is placed in the pot to stop soil from falling out of the drainage holes, and the filter contains the soil and roots, which is an aid when transplanting.

[Redbaron]

I like it Durgan. Really do like it a lot. I especially like the way you make your own soil. Making it ahead of time in May for the following year and storing it in ventilated 5 gallon buckets is brilliant!

[sicily]

Thanks for all your posts and photos Durgan! You gave me some money saving concepts to try for this season.