Any north Jersey Tomatovillians here?

[nnjjohn]

I have to ask because I always resort to buying my tomato plants after doing poorly with seedlings. This season, I want to grow my own from seeds. They are just germinating last couple days in a 92 cell jiffy tray with the green house cover ( an important step I neglected in the past was not using a doom ) another step I neglected in the past years trying to do my own seedlings ,was heat, I had no idea but now I know how warm temperatures helps trigger the seedlings to germinate. My burpee big boy and super beef steaks seedlings germinated within a week! Now I want to be sure to light them as explained here.. my question at this ★★★★★★★★ is ,when do I transplant these seedlings into bigger cups as the danger for frost is still weeks ahead? Did I start my tomato seedlings too early for Northern New Jersey? tia, John

[PA_Julia]

John,

I germinate my seeds via Jiffy brand starter pellets placed inside their respective plastic cells.

Once planted I then place them on top of a heating pad that is sits in a smaller plastic storage bin. The medium heat setting on the heating pad sits at approx 83 F for my particular pad. Tomato seeds germinate at a temperature between 80 and 85 F.

In order to know what the temperature is I have a soil thermometer placed in a larger starter pot filled with soil and moistened to approx the same amount as the Jiffy pellets.

It takes approx 4 to 7 days for germination to occur. Once it has occurred I then take the starter cell full of seedlings along with the heating mat and place them under a light ballast.
I turn down the temperature of the heating mat which for is is around 70 F and leave that on for approx to 3 days. I then remove the heating pad and continue to monitor the moisture level as the seedlings grow.

There is a bit more but this should assist you in getting started.

Addendum;

You can start your tomatoes at any time, however you will have to pot up a couple of more times until you reach the point of last freeze.
I plant my tomatoes in ground around Mother's Day.

[kath]

You didn't start too soon, John- they'll be good sized plants by Memorial Day, though. When I lived in northern Jersey that was the traditional plant out day. The first potting up usually is at about 2 weeks for me- when the seedlings have at one or two sets of true leaves and are getting root bound in the cells. The smallest cells I've used are 72 cell trays, though, and I don't usually plant more than 5 seeds/cell. Usually I pot up twice because I don't have much room under lights with all the seedlings I start and the plants end up in 16 oz. cups. The plants have been up to 18" tall or so and still happy in this size container.

Be sure to get them under lights as soon as they break through the soil and keep them within a couple inches if you're using fluorescents. Some of mine take 2 weeks or more to emerge, so don't give up too soon. Wishing you better luck this year.

kath

[nnjjohn]

Thank you both for sharing.. Just so you know, the 72 cell jiffy tray has 18 cucumbers that i had thought best to to transplant in bigger containers.. i do not need 18 cuc plants ,, maybe a dozen at best.. but they are shooting up faster than the two tomato varieties and the swiss chard is just starting to break out.. is it best to separate all the varities or can i let them stay in till they are like the size in the flats at the garden center? I hope these don't get leggy like the ones i neglected in the past seasons.. yes , in my basement where the pool table use to be, is a long bright florescent ficture.. I made a small hang table using 1/2 plywood..screwed 1 1/4 drywall screws and twisted band wire to the four corners and I can hang these seedlings right under the white light.

[nnjjohn]

Okay, just a few more questions about lights on the seedlings.. 1) After setting them under the light fixture with the tray cover off as instructed.. How much filteredwater am I dosing these seedlings everyday.. do I keep the cells wet or on the dry side? 2) Do I leave the lights on 24/7 and when do I start introducing them to sunlight? 3) Do I treat all seedlings in the same.. like the cucumbers and chard that are in the same tray? tia, John

[TightenUp]

Hi

im also in north jersey and you're right on time with your seed starting.

i use CFL lights and hang a bunch of them over the seedlings. the lights do not get very hot(i can touch them after they've been on for hours) and i keep the lights within an inch or two of the plants.

i also keep a small desk fan blowing on the low setting just enough that you can see a leaf moving a tiny bit.

i keep my lights on for about 14-16 hours. i'm not sure what i set the time to this season but its in that range.

as for watering them- you dont want the potting mix to be bone dry. the little seedlings will lose their strength and fall over without enough water. i wait for the potting mix to look dry on top before i water. you dont want waterlogged potting mix and dont want it bone dry. when you water you should water them well.

[nnjjohn]

Great!,, I separated the cucumbers from the 72 cell jiffy tray.. I transplated them in dollar store plant cups . The vigorous store bought potting mix is working wonderful and using 3" cups and so these should suffice for good root system till I get them out side in the ground.. Chard is taking longer to sprout.. but my big boys and super beefs look like they are happy.. I leave the light on all day and night and have them tight up only two inches from an eight ft double fluorescent fixture.. plenty of light imho.. cucumbers are getting big fast.. thank you..oh btw.. I use a spray bottle for the seed cell starter kit and for the transplants, just pour the 3 and 4 inch cops gently using filtered water. Today, I'm going to do a little tilling out in the yard.. this March is roaring like a LION! plenty of cold weather still ahead.. but I am going to start tilling.. how many times should I tiller my gardens? I worry about killing worms

[efisakov]

Hi, John,
I believe you started your tomatoes right on time, 8-10 weeks before planting. In your zone the recommended time is mid of May. Last year was warmer than usual, I planted my toms 3 weeks earlier.
Cucumbers, on the other hand, have bigger seeds and has to be started 6-8 weeks before planting out. They like mach wormer temperature than tomatoes. It is best to transplant them 2 weeks later than toms. You may need to find bigger containers for them...
sorry
For the light above my seedlings I use Hydro Farm Fluorescent Light System (my husband's generous present).
good luck with all

[kath]

Your enthusiasm come through loud and clear, John! Tightenup had great advice about not over or under watering- a better plan than trying to give them a little every day. If the top of your soiless mix stays wet you'll likely get green moldy/mossy growth on the surface before plant out. Bottom watering can help decrease this as well as the amount of compaction in your cells.

Your plants might be happier with a period of darkness every day- at least 6-8 hours. A timer might help. I just turn the lights off before I got to bed and turn them back on first thing in the am.

Unless you've got a cold frame, cloches, etc., you might want to seed your cukes a bit later in the season and in larger cups at the start and only transplant once into the garden because their root don't like to be disturbed. Cukes only need about 3 weeks of growth before they're ready to plant out and you need to figure on at least a week of that for the hardening off process. They won't be happy outside until the soil warms up in May sometime.

You can start introducing your plants to sunlight any time you can find a warm sheltered spot outside. It takes at least a week to 10 days of gradually giving them more light and exposure to wind and the colder temps of night before they're sturdy enough to make the transition to the garden. I like to put them in the sun as soon as the temps are warm enough- this year they haven't made it outside yet!

After over 25 years using a tiller once in the fall and once in the spring, we just use a broadfork now, partly because of the worms.

kath

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by efisakov

Hi, John,
I believe you started your tomatoes right on time, 8-10 weeks before planting. In your zone the recommended time is mid of May. Last year was warmer than usual, I planted my toms 3 weeks earlier.
Cucumbers, on the other hand, have bigger seeds and has to be started 6-8 weeks before planting out. They like mach wormer temperature than tomatoes. It is best to transplant them 2 weeks later than toms. You may need to find bigger containers for them...
sorry
For the light above my seedlings I use Hydro Farm Fluorescent Light System (my husband's generous present).
good luck with all

Thank you kindly for your reply about the cumubers,, I knew I should of waited too after the fact when I seen how fast these took off.. it is okay though, I have faith the spring weather will change abruptly and I'll get them cucs in the ground

[nnjjohn]

Originally Posted by kath

Your enthusiasm come through loud and clear, John! Tightenup had great advice about not over or under watering- a better plan than trying to give them a little every day. If the top of your soiless mix stays wet you'll likely get green moldy/mossy growth on the surface before plant out. Bottom watering can help decrease this as well as the amount of compaction in your cells.

Your plants might be happier with a period of darkness every day- at least 6-8 hours. A timer might help. I just turn the lights off before I got to bed and turn them back on first thing in the am.

Unless you've got a cold frame, cloches, etc., you might want to seed your cukes a bit later in the season and in larger cups at the start and only transplant once into the garden because their root don't like to be disturbed. Cukes only need about 3 weeks of growth before they're ready to plant out and you need to figure on at least a week of that for the hardening off process. They won't be happy outside until the soil warms up in May sometime.

You can start introducing your plants to sunlight any time you can find a warm sheltered spot outside. It takes at least a week to 10 days of gradually giving them more light and exposure to wind and the colder temps of night before they're sturdy enough to make the transition to the garden. I like to put them in the sun as soon as the temps are warm enough- this year they haven't made it outside yet!

After over 25 years using a tiller once in the fall and once in the spring, we just use a broadfork now, partly because of the worms.

kath

Kath let us hope for a wonderful growing season..you are a sweetheart, thank you for sharing too

[efisakov]

John, sorry forgot to mention,
Last two years I have found my self battling with gnats ( I blame potting mix).
This what helps me.
I am using 3% Hydrogen Peroxide which is then diluted: 4 parts water + 1 part Peroxide.
It is not only great to kill gnats but prevents molding too. I water my plants with that once a week. Hope it helps.

[efisakov]

Kath, I enjoyed reading few of your threads, the one with many pictures of the tomatoes you grew is my favorite. Hoping you will do this again.

[kath]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

I knew I should of waited too after the fact when I seen how fast these took off.. it is okay though, I have faith the spring weather will change abruptly and I'll get them cucs in the ground

I've been gardening for decades, John, but I have lettuce starts so big that I could harvest them and broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and celery that are now in 4" pots waiting for the weather to break.It's so easy to start seeds too early...just in case.

kath

[kath]

Originally Posted by efisakov

Kath, I enjoyed reading few of your threads, the one with many pictures of the tomatoes you grew is my favorite. Hoping you will do this again.

Thanks, Ella- glad you enjoyed them. I'm not making any promises for this year, though.

kath