Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 22, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabama 7.5 or 8 depends on who you ask
Posts: 727
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Update for those using MycoGrow Soluble Mycorrhize
They have MycoGrow Soluble in 1 lb's now for $79.95 (plus shipping)
http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/...uble-1-lb.html |
March 22, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I wonder how long the stuff is viable because a pound would last a long time used at the recommended rate of one ounce to twelve gallons of water. I use the one ounce packages and have not seen a freshness date on them.
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March 22, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabama 7.5 or 8 depends on who you ask
Posts: 727
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b54red
I just got off the phone with the company from asking them your question. 100% viability for two years - then losses 10% per year after that (so total would be about 12 years}. You are correct about 1 oz per 12 gal as it's concentrated. However I talked with a owner a few years back and explained here we had a lot of humidity and he told me to use 1 oz per gal - and I like doing it that way. The extra I was told no way hurts the plants but would allow more of the bacteria to work against a lot of the high humidity type molds etc. Last edited by John3; March 22, 2013 at 05:09 PM. |
March 22, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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John at that rate I cant afford to use the stuff. If it doesn't work at something close to the recommended rate then I will have to quit using it. I have found it most useful in the plants after they are potted up. All of my plants are now treated when they are potted up so the roots have some time for the fungus to colonize before they go into the ground. Using it seems to increase the uptake of nutrients and the plants are a darker green and just look healthier. In the garden I have found it of little use as a fusarium repellent even when used as a soil drench. Maybe I just have too much fusarium but even when using far more than recommended I could see no difference in the treated and untreated plants the last few years. The most effective thing for serious fusarium is a plant with high resistance to it. I am doing some experimenting with grafting onto various rootstock that are of proven resistance to see if that will be a help with the fusarium.
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March 22, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 24
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You need to store it in a cooler environment, heat kills.
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March 22, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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You've got to have some serious acreage to need 1lb.
1oz will do me for the season and then some. |
March 22, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabama 7.5 or 8 depends on who you ask
Posts: 727
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b54red - it sounds like it is not working for you if it didn't work for me I wouldn't use it either. Sounds like that experimenting with grafting onto various rootstock might be a good direction.
If you have time google this phrase Trichoderma destroying pathogenic fungi fusarium The only time I drench MycoGrow is when I transplant out using Ami’s dip method – I take what is left and pour out around the plants. Besides foiler spraying I apply MycoGrow like in this video but pour the liquid down the holes And use a Rolling Head Pry Bar for making the holes looks like the one in the video Thanks armac for the heat information. RayR - I have some fruit trees and camellias which like to drink it Last edited by John3; March 22, 2013 at 08:40 PM. |
March 22, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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John I'm not saying it isn't working, because I definitely see improvement in the plants while still in the cups with potting soil. I just have seen no discernible difference in the plants once in my fusarium laced soil. It may well be killing a bit of the fusarium but not enough to make a big difference.
What I really need are a couple of really cold winters so that my beds freeze solid. That hasn't happened in years. We have been having exceptionally mild winters with no really cold weather for a few years and the fusarium which is always here has just gotten worse. Bill |
March 24, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,591
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Bill,
Have you tried solarizing your beds ?? Wet the beds well then cover with clear plastic for at least a month to heat up that covered soil. I don't know if that would "cook" the fusarium enough to kill is, but it might be worth a try to see if it would help. Carol |
April 3, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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One mycorhizzae vendor (not Fungi Perfecti) said that Trichoderma
Harziana, while a beneficial, protective organism in the rhizosphere, may interfere with endomycorrhizae colonization of the roots. With that in mind, I have been using Mycogrow for Vegetables (endomycorrhizae only; it does not have the cocktail of beneficial soil organisms that is in Mycrogrow Soluble, which includes trichoderma) when potting up. Then I use Mycogrow Soluble at around a teaspoon per gallon in the water that I water seedlings in with when I transplant into the garden or into larger containers. By then the endomycorrhizae in Mycogrow for Vegetables has had 5-6 weeks to colonize the roots of the seedlings before they have their first exposure to trichoderma harziana.
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April 5, 2019 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: south carolina
Posts: 175
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Use of Myco Grow
Do you need to use untreated water for this to work??
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April 5, 2019 | #12 |
Buffalo-Niagara Tomato TasteFest™ Co-Founder
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: The Niagara Frontier
Posts: 942
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I don't use that specific product, but I do use Mykos, which is around $25 for 2.2lbs w/Amazon Prime delivery... it's a granular.
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