Cutworms a MAJOR problem

huntoften · May 17, 2013

I've never lost a plant to them until this year and have lost NINE so far. Lots of others in the KC area are reporting the same losses and many more. Anyone have any idea why there would be such an outbreak of this monster?

**Mischka** · May 17, 2013

I can't pinpoint the cause for the population explosion but I do know that they are nocturnal feeders and and will travel much further distances on cloudy days vs. sunny days.

Sprinkle some Diatomaceous Earth in an unbroken circle around each stem, about 3 inches out. Make some collars out of cardboard tubes (paper towel core/toilet paper core) and wrap around the stems where they meet the soil. I like to paint the outside edge of the collars with Tangle-Trap, which is very effective for trapping crawling insects.

huntoften · May 17, 2013

I did the DE, but the critters crawled under it and munched some of the same plants. I've been digging around the cut plants trying to find them, but I only found one. I'm going to retrofit my plants with collars and will look into the sticky stuff...thanks for the tip!

lakelady · May 18, 2013

eww. those are gross. They've gotten many plants in my yard in previous years, so far, knock on wood, nothing yet. Found many other icky worms in the ground, but not them. I just ordered some nematodes, but they won't work on this year's crop anyway so I 'm hoping they don't head this way anytime soon.

kath · May 18, 2013

Cutworms were the worst I've ever seen last year but I have no idea why and I'm hoping not to see a repeat performance this year. I did find 3 in preparing the soil for planting but so far they managed to mow down a good % of a row of peas that were under row cover.

For transplants that have single stems, I use the paper collar technique or put a couple of toothpicks right next to the stem half in and half above the soil. Haven't lost a transplant yet using either method. Using toothpicks is faster than cutting and making collars and they're cheap enough to make it worthwhile to me. I don't ever remove either- they just seem to disintegrate over the course of the season.

kath

**carolyn137** · May 18, 2013

Cutworms have to encircle the stem before they can start gnawing away, and collars don't work since they can crawl up underneath the collars.

So preventing cutworm damage comes down to preventing them from wrapping their stupid bodies completely around the stem and the only way to do that is to stick something right next to the stem that's fairly large to preventthemfrom doing that.

In the past I've used twigs, sometimes old stems from the Queen Anne's Lace, only b'c there was always a lot of it around, some use nails, I never did, but what I found best were plastic soda straws.

Cutworms can't cut if the leader stem is large so it's only the usually spindly stemmed ones that they attack and you'll find that online as well. I found that out comparing plants that I'd grown from seed as opposed to the ones that I grew in Charlie's greenhouses and his plants, and mine, were beautiful, thick stemmed and all.

There's more than one species of cutworm and I only knew the one that cut off stems near the ground until someone from the south showed some pictures with cutworms way up on the stem and even in the foliage,

I checked that out and sure enough differernt species of cutworms do have preferred areas of damage,

Hope that helps.

Carolyn, who will also mention that when she was a kid the Cornell extension came up with this ghastly concontion that was supposed to deter them. Had to mix it in a large galvanized tub and all I remember is that it was some kind of grain, plus molasses and finely cut orange peel. It smelled great but It didn't work very well.

RebelRidin · May 18, 2013

I haven't had many here in MD but as a kid they gave my folks fits in Missouri. Our neighbor, Mr. Drusselmeyer, was often out in his garden at night in the spring with flashlight in hand trying to "hunt the buggers down".

ddsack · May 18, 2013

At least in the north, the current caterpillars must overwinter in the soil, because there wouldn't be time for them to get to any size from this spring's eggs, too early for the moths. They are mostly in my back garden which is very sandy. I try to find and squish as many as I can while forking up my soil before planting. I might find as many as 5-6 per 8' x 4' raised bed. I used to use newspaper collars, and they worked well for me for a few years, but then one year I got fungus infections on the tomato stems due to the moist conditions and lack of air circulation of the collars. I haven't been using anything for the last few years because I am setting out larger plants with thicker stems than I used to, and do find most of the caterpillars before I plant. But I like Carolyn's idea of the straws, because I know I probably lose some nails and end up stabbing myself grubbing around.

Last year for the first time, I had trouble with climbing cut worms in my potted tomatos - those appeared in June and were clearly from newly laid eggs, as there were many tiny caterpillars in each pot. They ate lacy sections on the leaves at night, and hid in the dirt by day. It took me a while to figure out what was happening since I'd never had that happen before. It was only when I was watering the pots and had about an inch of standing water on top of the soil, that I could see I had flushed out and floated up a bunch of the baby caterpillars!

Barbee · May 18, 2013

I use a nail on each side of the stem here. Works like a charm.

Tracydr · May 18, 2013

I wonder if Sluggo Plus would work since it contains spinosad? I use it on my pill bug-sow bug invasions because they often get my young seedlings. I also used it when they were eating the roots of my artichoke and it perked up immediately.
I don't know if it gets cutworms but I do know I have a lot of cutworms, especially where I don't use raised beds and I haven't lost anything to them in quite sometime. Unless there's some other little green worm that lives in the soil.

b54red · May 18, 2013

They can be really bad down here but since I started using two toothpicks on each side of the stem I haven't lost a single plant to them and I started doing that three years ago. Oops I did lose a couple when I forgot to put the toothpicks next to the stems. I sometimes use small twigs if I forget to bring some toothpicks into the garden with me. If I mulch the plant right up to the stem immediately after planting with cypress mulch they don't bother them either. I used to make collars and they helped a lot but I would still lose some plants.

Bill

lakelady · May 18, 2013

do the toothpicks go right up against the stem or is there any space ? That sounds like a great idea. They LOVE sunflower seedlings.

kath · May 18, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakelady

do the toothpicks go right up against the stem or is there any space ? That sounds like a great idea. They LOVE sunflower seedlings.

No space at all- I like to line up one on either side of the stem- sometimes 3 in case the wind blows the plant to one side.

Didn't know about their fondness for sunflowers- just planted some seeds yesterday so I'll have to try to catch them before they get munched.

kath

kath · May 18, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by carolyn137

Cutworms have to encircle the stem before they can start gnawing away, and collars don't work since they can crawl up underneath the collars.

There's more than one species of cutworm and I only knew the one that cut off stems near the ground until someone from the south showed some pictures with cutworms way up on the stem and even in the foliage,

I checked that out and sure enough differernt species of cutworms do have preferred areas of damage,

Hope that helps.

I always wrapped my collars pretty tight and haven't lost anything with the toothpicks in place either but the straws sound like a good idea for sure.

The nails sounded good, too, until I thought about maybe not finding them all and then having one go through the bottom of my flip flop.

Your info on cutworms explains the ones I found last year that were on foliage up to 2' off the ground!

kath

mecktom · May 18, 2013

A piece of a small gauge wire beside the stem will do the trick. The nails work if you remember to retrieve them. The toothpicks sound good,also.

May 17, 2013	#1
huntoften Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kansas CIty Posts: 560	Cutworms a MAJOR problem I've never lost a plant to them until this year and have lost NINE so far. Lots of others in the KC area are reporting the same losses and many more. Anyone have any idea why there would be such an outbreak of this monster? __________________ Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a

May 17, 2013	#2
Mischka Tomatoville® Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: The Bay State Posts: 3,207	I can't pinpoint the cause for the population explosion but I do know that they are nocturnal feeders and and will travel much further distances on cloudy days vs. sunny days. Sprinkle some Diatomaceous Earth in an unbroken circle around each stem, about 3 inches out. Make some collars out of cardboard tubes (paper towel core/toilet paper core) and wrap around the stems where they meet the soil. I like to paint the outside edge of the collars with Tangle-Trap, which is very effective for trapping crawling insects. __________________ Mischka One last word of farewell, Dear Master and Mistress. Whenever you visit my grave, say to yourselves with regret but also with happiness in your hearts at the remembrance of my long happy life with you: "Here lies one who loved us and whom we loved." No matter how deep my sleep I shall hear you, and not all the power of death can keep my spirit from wagging a grateful tail.

May 17, 2013	#3
huntoften Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kansas CIty Posts: 560	I did the DE, but the critters crawled under it and munched some of the same plants. I've been digging around the cut plants trying to find them, but I only found one. I'm going to retrofit my plants with collars and will look into the sticky stuff...thanks for the tip! __________________ Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a

May 18, 2013	#4
lakelady Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: northern NJ zone 6b Posts: 1,862	eww. those are gross. They've gotten many plants in my yard in previous years, so far, knock on wood, nothing yet. Found many other icky worms in the ground, but not them. I just ordered some nematodes, but they won't work on this year's crop anyway so I 'm hoping they don't head this way anytime soon. __________________ Antoniette

May 18, 2013	#6
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	Cutworms have to encircle the stem before they can start gnawing away, and collars don't work since they can crawl up underneath the collars. So preventing cutworm damage comes down to preventing them from wrapping their stupid bodies completely around the stem and the only way to do that is to stick something right next to the stem that's fairly large to preventthemfrom doing that. In the past I've used twigs, sometimes old stems from the Queen Anne's Lace, only b'c there was always a lot of it around, some use nails, I never did, but what I found best were plastic soda straws. Cutworms can't cut if the leader stem is large so it's only the usually spindly stemmed ones that they attack and you'll find that online as well. I found that out comparing plants that I'd grown from seed as opposed to the ones that I grew in Charlie's greenhouses and his plants, and mine, were beautiful, thick stemmed and all. There's more than one species of cutworm and I only knew the one that cut off stems near the ground until someone from the south showed some pictures with cutworms way up on the stem and even in the foliage, I checked that out and sure enough differernt species of cutworms do have preferred areas of damage, Hope that helps. Carolyn, who will also mention that when she was a kid the Cornell extension came up with this ghastly concontion that was supposed to deter them. Had to mix it in a large galvanized tub and all I remember is that it was some kind of grain, plus molasses and finely cut orange peel. It smelled great but It didn't work very well. __________________ Carolyn

May 18, 2013	#5
kath Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: zone 6b, PA Posts: 5,664	Cutworms were the worst I've ever seen last year but I have no idea why and I'm hoping not to see a repeat performance this year. I did find 3 in preparing the soil for planting but so far they managed to mow down a good % of a row of peas that were under row cover. For transplants that have single stems, I use the paper collar technique or put a couple of toothpicks right next to the stem half in and half above the soil. Haven't lost a transplant yet using either method. Using toothpicks is faster than cutting and making collars and they're cheap enough to make it worthwhile to me. I don't ever remove either- they just seem to disintegrate over the course of the season. kath

May 18, 2013	#7
RebelRidin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore Posts: 993	I haven't had many here in MD but as a kid they gave my folks fits in Missouri. Our neighbor, Mr. Drusselmeyer, was often out in his garden at night in the spring with flashlight in hand trying to "hunt the buggers down". __________________ George _____________________________ "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it’s natural manure." Thomas Jefferson, 1787

May 18, 2013	#8
ddsack Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3 Posts: 3,231	At least in the north, the current caterpillars must overwinter in the soil, because there wouldn't be time for them to get to any size from this spring's eggs, too early for the moths. They are mostly in my back garden which is very sandy. I try to find and squish as many as I can while forking up my soil before planting. I might find as many as 5-6 per 8' x 4' raised bed. I used to use newspaper collars, and they worked well for me for a few years, but then one year I got fungus infections on the tomato stems due to the moist conditions and lack of air circulation of the collars. I haven't been using anything for the last few years because I am setting out larger plants with thicker stems than I used to, and do find most of the caterpillars before I plant. But I like Carolyn's idea of the straws, because I know I probably lose some nails and end up stabbing myself grubbing around. Last year for the first time, I had trouble with climbing cut worms in my potted tomatos - those appeared in June and were clearly from newly laid eggs, as there were many tiny caterpillars in each pot. They ate lacy sections on the leaves at night, and hid in the dirt by day. It took me a while to figure out what was happening since I'd never had that happen before. It was only when I was watering the pots and had about an inch of standing water on top of the soil, that I could see I had flushed out and floated up a bunch of the baby caterpillars! __________________ Dee **************

May 18, 2013	#9
Barbee Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 1,818	I use a nail on each side of the stem here. Works like a charm. __________________ *Barbee*

May 18, 2013	#10
Tracydr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7 Posts: 3,207	I wonder if Sluggo Plus would work since it contains spinosad? I use it on my pill bug-sow bug invasions because they often get my young seedlings. I also used it when they were eating the roots of my artichoke and it perked up immediately. I don't know if it gets cutworms but I do know I have a lot of cutworms, especially where I don't use raised beds and I haven't lost anything to them in quite sometime. Unless there's some other little green worm that lives in the soil.

May 18, 2013	#11
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	They can be really bad down here but since I started using two toothpicks on each side of the stem I haven't lost a single plant to them and I started doing that three years ago. Oops I did lose a couple when I forgot to put the toothpicks next to the stems. I sometimes use small twigs if I forget to bring some toothpicks into the garden with me. If I mulch the plant right up to the stem immediately after planting with cypress mulch they don't bother them either. I used to make collars and they helped a lot but I would still lose some plants. Bill

May 18, 2013	#15
mecktom Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Southern Virginia Posts: 342	A piece of a small gauge wire beside the stem will do the trick. The nails work if you remember to retrieve them. The toothpicks sound good,also.